Bartman

I bought 1TF in 2007, and this repair was done before I purchased it. As you can see, it was just brushed on thick with only a couple of layers of mesh, and it delaminated, so I suspect it is not the approved MGS epoxy. I started with a 40-grit disc on a drill, and that worked pretty well, but honestly, it came off easier with just using a knife and one of those painter's multi-tools. I also burned thru one small areal so I found it best not to use the sanding disc for the big stuff. The knife would get under the edges, but it was too thin to get leverage, and the painter's tool worked perfectly for this. I did hit the entire area with 40 grit sandpaper and then washed with soap and a scrub brush. I'll have to clean with MEK and do some additional preparation, but I have a good start. As you can see, the previous repair extended all the way to the honeycomb, and I wanted to remove all the old delaminating resin from the picture. One question for Byron @jetdriven. Did you completely remove the honeycomb, or did you cover it with carbon fiber? Jamie

Since I am grounded due to a broken spinner bulkhead I decided to bring the upper cowl home and start the rebuild process. I have this 2013 thread from @jetdriven saved and will use that as a guide, but the pictures did not migrate as we changed servers. I have some supplies gathered, including the MGS epoxy and hardeners, carbon fiber in both woven sheet and unidirectional as well. Gathering supplies to do bagging, and I'll do it right to the best of my ability, but I'm certain it will be better than what I have now. Here are some pictures before, and during the removal process.

We wanted to go to Centennial. It's a bigger airport, and yes, it's more expensive and stressful, but I enjoy the experience. Reminded me of flying into Midway. Making memories.

I didn't have the 8-second ride, but it was more like the nose gear was wobbling like a bad shopping cart wheel. About 10 years ago, we sent my nose gear to LASAR for rebuilding and the installation of new shock discs. We also installed the new steering horn, and basically everything is like new.

We flew into Centennial in June and I think we used Signature. Believe it or not, they had the cheapest fuel on the field, but honestly I've never wasted my time fretting about fuel prices at a destination airport. We saw a concert at the Red Rocks and it exceeded my expectation, and had a great experience in Golden, Morrison, Colorodo Springs, and Pikes Peak. I would use APA and Signature again.

My wife was there when the piece hit the asphalt and she said buy a new propeller. I’m pretty sure it is best I not argue.

Flew back today from a weekend beach trip and when washing the plane the missing piece fell to the ground when I turned the prop. My wife was helping wash and she heard it hit the ground and said “that didn’t sound good”. No doubt it wasn’t snug enough last time I had the dynamic balance done. We both enjoyed an OH CRAP moment together followed by a beer. I’ve had this plane since 2007 and basically done nothing to the prop or the governor but the blades have been dressed several times so I doubt they would pass. I’m thinking new McCauley C212 for $12,836 per their website.

That’s not Mooney.

Replacing the rollers when they were 35 years old was one of the easiest and best things I ever did. That was several years ago and I did get them from LASAR. While you are at it, consider swapping the pilot and passenger seat locations to even the wear on the frames. While you are at it, clean out the holes in the rails with a hand held drill bit. Good for another 35 years.

I would put the plane safely on jacks and have the maintenance and parts manuals on the wing. Have someone actuate the gear while you watch and listen. Locate every fitting, some are not easily seen. I don’t have my manual with me but I recall @Hank once documented all of the fitting locations. Mine has one missing and I have to use the needle on that one. Also, you may find the fitting takes grease better in a semi retracted position, and may not take grease at all sitting on the ground. Not trying to tell you what to do, and hope this helps.

Best I remember I see 18.7gph on takeoff but that was summer temps and DA so may be a little higher in cooler air. 17gph would be low, but would not explain not making full RPM.

Looks like the crack goes through the hole for the fastener. If it were my spinner I would get that repaired if weld can fix it, or replaced. Mine has fiber washers under the fasteners.

There is a thread on here somewhere that details switch removal, opening it up, internal contact cleaning, and the results. If you determine it’s the switch, that thread may be helpful.

We removed my oil separator in 2020 when we installed the overhauled engine. I add at 5 and fill to 6. I'm happy with a clean belly.

Same. PS Engineering 7000 series.

If I remember correctly, mine had some sort of locking nuts on the end of those screws and I had to hold them from the inside. It was definitely not an enjoyable project, and I am thankful that the cuts and abrasions did not leave scars on my forearm.

Above 8K I fly at peak and you cannot hurt it at that altitude with the mixture. My EGTs are closer together while ROP but they peak individually at much wider spread and this will definitely affect the reading while 25LOP. Assuming both mags, wires and plugs are performing nominally, and the injectors are clean, the absolute EGT numbers do not matter. I aim for 10 LOP at lower altitudes. As previously stuggested, try to get the fuel flow from first to peak to last to peak as close to 0.0 as possible. 0.5gph will likely run well, but the closer your spread the smoother it can potentially run while LOP and also generate optimal HP. If one or two are very lean compared to the others, you will give up more HP while LOP and it does drop off quickly. We swapped out the injectors for the highest and lowest fuel flow and went from 0.5 to 0.2 consistently and often they peak simultaneously. I am also happy with 143kts @ 8.6gph and 2450. Can easily see 155 while ROP, but it’s not worth it to me.

In 18 years of ownership we have repaired the field wire terminal 3 times. The vibration causes the wires to break at the crimp. In 2020 when we installed the rebuilt engine I coiled up a small loop of extra field wire at the alternator and secured it such that there was minimal movement between the wire loop and the terminal. I installed a new terminal and decided I would just install a new terminal in years divisible by 5. It looked good this year but I replaced it anyway. Good for another 5 years. I think the field wire terminal is the weakest link on the M20J

At last annual I/we installed a new WAT Parmethus PAR 46 landing light along with LED wing tip lights and I am very happy with the result. However, I must say that in the 18 years that I have owned 1TF the GE landing light has only been replaced once, and that was about 15 years ago. That being said, the WAT was expensive, but the LED is so much brighter and I’m happy with my purchase.

The PMA7000 series is slide-in compatible with the KMA24. Might be an option.

I had Comm issues and a new set of spark plug wires fixed it. You may find a difference by switching off L or R magneto. That’s how I found mine.

I will retire in about 5 years and I would enjoy an air race. In several speed runs with the average of the cardinal directions I have seen as high as 158kts and as low as 153kts on my stock ‘77J. My bird will never see 165kts in level flight like yours and I would have no chance to win, but if it helped get to 5 entries, it would help get YOU the trophy for the class.

If not already done, consider removing the air plenum and remove the “hog hair” fibers. This acts as a filter and if you were flying in rain with the vent open it would allow it to drop out and drain, but who flies with the overhead vent open in the rain? I found the filtration benefit did not meet my expectations and it acted more of an impediment to flow. When we redid mine a few years ago I also rigged the new wire to open a bit more than previous. It now opens about an inch and I now enjoy much improved air flow, but it does adds drag and decreases airspeed a few knots when open. I have no regrets about those minor changes.

Reminds me of the tractor scene in Footloose.

You cleaned the shaft, lightly lubricated it, and stated it seems to be a solution. After lubricating hemi joints and ensuring nothing is causing binding of the push/pull tubes to the tail, I would not hesitate to fly.