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DrBill

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Everything posted by DrBill

  1. From the album: DrBill

    WOT at 2418RPM. c20MPG at 177MPH
  2. This past weekend I flew from Charlotte to Okeechobee Fl. 620sm. I flew at 10K down, and 11K up. Going down I made it in 3.5 hrs and used 32 gallons. That's 177MPH average and 19.375 MPG. Coming back it was 3.8 hrs but I did not fill up. That's still 163MPG average. This is at 2420 RPM and WOT (wide open throttle) at 21 inches. See the picture of my tach/MP gauge in my gallery. To me, this is fast and economical. Bill
  3. From the album: DrBill

    Took picture of these clouds, then ATC called out traffic 1mi ahead, 1000ft over. Never saw it until I looked at this picture the following night !
  4. Tested my oximeter this weekend. Tested my 02 level at gnd several times and it was 96-98 consistantly. Tested O2 at 10K after 30 minutes. O2 level was 83,84 (2 sequential tests). Put on my canula and turned on my portable O2 bottle. Retested 15 mins later, 92,93. Retested 15 mins later 97,98. It works ! Now I'm going to order the oxisaver canulas since in 4 hrs I used up the 1/2 bottle I had left. Have to get the bottle refilled too. BILL
  5. From the album: DrBill

    Flight from Charlotte to Okeechobee on 11/1. Great view of the Cape.
  6. I change oil every 30 hours. Check tires before a long (e.g. week long) trip. Other than that, the IA does the annual (usually about 80-120hrs/ yr) and fixes any issues I find. Latest one was that the cable came out of ram-air flapper. Taped it off until he fixed it. Bill
  7. got a quote of $295 form Wentworth for the entire APU. Can someone post a picture of the APU assembly so I can see what I'm buying ? The hard to find part is the door covering the socket. All the other parts are easy to find. BILL
  8. I have several pair of American Optical Aviators, sold at base Exchange for c$25/pair. My last teaching assistant was an AFROTC flight school candidate and when he got his latest uniform, he got me another pair. I like them because they have VERY dark lenses. Bill
  9. "What purpose does the diode perform?", The diode is there so that if the power on the external plug was reversed, the relay would not energize. This prevents an incorrectly wired plug from being connected to the battery and causing a high current short. The only way the relay will "pick" is if wire X1 is +12V relative to ground . This allows the diode to conduct and turn on the relay. If wire X1 is negative 12 V, then the diode will NOT conduct and the relay will not energizze. With your external power connected, measure the voltage across the coil contacts of the relay. You should see +12V relative to chassis on wire X1 and 0.7V at the contact with the diode. If you read +12V at the contact with the diode, the diode is OPEN (bad). BILL
  10. Had same problem with my Beech. The plunger in the switch was stuck with some VERY fine dust/dirt. After replacing the swirtch, I did failure analysis on the old one. Found that the plunger was stuck "in". Disassembled the switch enough to pull the plunger out and with it came a bunch of fine dust/dirt. "Lubed" it up with some silicone grease and re-assembled. Worked like new. Bill
  11. Jepp is the only one for the Garmin units. I'm tied to them too for the 430. Good service tho. I have a spare card and do the swap when I go to the airport. I keep it in the USB reader. Bill
  12. Based upon the schematic provided above, let me explain the operation and the purpose of the diode. Given Lood's symptoms, his airplane is defninitey NOT wired like this schematic. External power enters via connector F. When the connector is inserted, the negative is connected to GROUND and the positive connects to both + terminals. The top terminal, is wired to the coil of the relay with the diode to ground. If the wiring of the external power was REVERSED, the relay would NOT be energized and no problems would occur. If the polaiity is correct, the relay is energixed and the + side of the external power is then connected to the battery. Wired correctly, applying external power should have no change IN THE COCKPIT. It is interesting to see that the Master switch provides the GROUND connection for the POWER relay which then directs the positive power to the main bus as well as to the starter solonoid. I'd love to put an external power jack on my 63 E, does this require any unique parts or STC ? BILL
  13. I've had mine just over a year. My insurance is $1000 / year for $55K hull. (I'm IFR- current, with c500 hrs, 75 in mooney) I own my "portable" hangar so I pay $65/mo for the space it's on. Shade ports are $130/mo at my airport. Many owners close them in at least on 3 sides if not 4. I flight plan for 135kts at 8000. I burn c 9GPH at 2400 RPM (throttle wide open at that altitude). Last year my total costs was $7k for 100 hrs of flight time. That included the annual and gas. I bought it with all the avionics I wanted and will soon add ADSB OUT and IN. In 2007 the previous owner put $45K of avionics in it. I got it for $47K. Price depends HIGHLY on avionics, then Total time and condition. My engine is at half life like most others for sale. I looked and looked for 6 months to find an E or an F within 150 miles of CLT. By far, the best airplane I've flown yet. BILL 63 M20E
  14. I got my complex signoff in an Arrow 1. Have about 50 hrs in it. I agree with Parker.. Understand the emergency differences and all relevant speeds. Where in NC are you coming ? Bill Mint Hill, just E of Charlotte.
  15. In my case the rubber bellows came loose from the plastic housing. The fix was simple, Reinstall the bellows over the plastic housing, secure with one round of electrical tape and a very large hose clamp. BILL
  16. Airframe hours roughly 3700. One of the caps does not go fully down like you say however I do believe it's a simple dismantle and file the part square to put the corner back in.
  17. I have the two oriiginal SHAW caps from my 63 E with spare O-rings. Got the bladders and the new lockable caps are great. No need for these. Asking $100 for the pair shipped. Bill Update 9/23---- SOLD>
  18. I am 6'3" and I have all the room I need in my 63 E. Much more room then a Cherokee 180. Seat position is more like a Mustang than a Taurus. I consider my "E" as a 3 adult plane. My seat is all the way back during exit and entry then I slide it up about 1/2-2/3 the way for good pedal position. Before I bought mine I flew in a "C" and F and liked the postion. BILL
  19. I've used KLNA (Lantana) when near PBI and all was well. For Southwest Virginia, I use Virginia Highlands. KVJI. Very friendly folks and decent Crew car. I've had mixed service from KTRI (Tri cities). Sometimes charged a fee, sometimes not. Bill
  20. CLT has a fee assessed by the FBO if you use their ramp. No fee if you fly into the Carolinas Aviation Museum (call on telephone first is a must). You can park on their ramp and then visit the museum (fee). For Charlotte area use EQY (Monroe, NC (Charlotte Monroe Executive) or JQF (Concord). Nice folks at both places or come to 8A6 (Wilgrove) where I'm based. RDU has a fee assessed by the FBO as well. Usually waived with 10gal fuel purchase. Last time there, I worked for the University and told them I was there on buisness and they did not charge me. They also waived it once before when I ordered 2 large PIZZAs to be delivered for lunch (was on another business trip before the University). Bill
  21. I was in a partnership with my previous plane. We had a two way and it was great. Feel free to PM any questions. BILL
  22. Carusoam, were you up at 221 AM ? This posted at 1036PM EDT BILL
  23. Bleach Bottle (1 gal) gives MUCH more..(and you don't have to look at it). Bill
  24. I went through this just a few months ago. Given I have a 3 hour bladder and to be honest, I GAINED 1 GAL capaciity, I went with the 3 bladder system and had it done at the factory, O&N near Scranton PA. They have a month backlog which worked great on getting a cheap round trip airfate from Scranton to Charlotte. I left the plane there a week. Their price was good for install and they re-calibrated the fuel gauges and the new LOCKING caps look great. I made new "dip" sticks for the tanks but they are real close to the old ones. No more worry about leaking or re-sealing. In my opinion about the same money outlay as a complete re-seal. They took me to the airport on a Saturday and picked me up on the way back. Had lunch at a real nice "local" spot near the airport. I'd do it agian. No more stains.... ever. IT was a bit over 3 hrs each way but worth it. BILL
  25. I like the 201 look but I don't think it's worth the $ difference. I'd rather spend the money on the cowl upgrade. More knots per $. Also the 201 upgrade removes the access to the panel. I'd much rather work form the top than laying on my back. BILL
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