sreid

I think he means short body as in the C/E models. I don't think anyone has done that.

My 67 F has the original pilot's yoke. It has a wind up clock, and a post light that illuminates that clock. Almost certainly those two wires are from your removed post light. They are controlled by the right hand overhead dimmer knob. Steve

I had the same experience on my '67F. The pump failed in level cruise, smooth air, and it was very noticeable. The airplane slowed ~3mph.

I guess Dave was right on the other thread...post pics of you having fun, be ready for people to tell you you're having fun wrong!

What? How can the tower stop you from departing? Did they actually NOTAM close the airport?

Do you know what changes were made after the G? Steve

I don't have any idea if they are the same or not.

wow

Or order 2x of MS29513-010 and 2x of MS29513-338 for about $4 from Aircraft Spruce. (reference Mooney SB M20-229A)

Why should they sue? This is a well known issue. We partake in an activity that is well known to be a bit more dangerous than sitting on the couch. Sometimes things happen. Everytime something bad happens does not equal I won a lottery ticket.

I raced mx and hare scrambles for 15 years so am no stranger to helmets, highsides, lowsides, endos, loopouts, or any other way to fund orthopedic surgeons Turbo Porsches! Still, I can't see myself putting on a helmet to fly a mooney on a cross country! Maybe you need a different A & P! Anyway, we're in the USA so we all still have the freedom to make our own choices regarding personal safety and protective gear. If it makes you guys feel safer, then go for it! Just saying that it seems over the top to me personally! I don't personally feel like I need the same safety gear when taking my mooney on a personal flight as I do taking a CR250 over an 80 ft triple.

I would also wrap yourself in bubble wrap (non-flammable TSO'd kind).

835 is the descision altitude. /60 is the minimum RVR. 509 is the height above touchdown zone elevation. The numbers in parentheses are only applicable to military operations. Steve

I removed mine ('67 F) when I cut new instrument panels a few years ago. I could trace it so you would have a 1:1 outline if that would help. From your picture, my part appears to be the same size and shape as your C model. Steve

I don't currently have the Weldon on my airplane either, but I have seen the drawing from the Weldon conversion kit. It says to "reform" the panel as required. So it sounds like you probably do have it. How big is the dimple? Does it still look ok or is it obvious that it has been modified and looks a little "hacked" together?

The retrofit kit for the Weldon pump is not easy to come by. If the factory actually had one, ha, they get $2800 for it. (Includes pump and all brackets, lines, and fittings) Steve

-a-, My guess is that in an Ovation you could have dissimilar batteries, like a Gill and a Concorde, and it would be fine. On aircraft using two 12V batteries in series, a 58 Baron for example, you have problems with non-matching batteries that have different internal resistances. This causes one battery to get a higher voltage drop than the other. Guess you should check with a good mechanic, or maybe the maintenance manuals, to know for sure! Steve

-a-, I don't know of any limitation or guidance that says you have to have the same make battery on both sides. Seems like that is more applicable to aircraft having two 12-V batteries in series. Makes sense that you'd need two of the same make and age in that case. Do you have just one battery that you're wanting to replace? Steve

-a-, Since the two batteries in the Ovation are relatively independent, I think you could replace them one at a time. Isn't the non-selected battery just on a small low level charge and otherwise is not connected? Steve

How much time on the mags and spark plugs?

Does your oil turn black quickly?

Because it's easier to convert a manual gear F into a pseudo 201!

Sell the plane, that's not economical to repair.

Sounds like they did good work for you, and the location is relatively convenient. There doesn't seem to be anybody that does cylinder work around KC anymore. Thanks for the contact info, I will give them a call. Steve

Quote: KSMooniac I'd also add that a full cylinder replacement might not be warranted if you find a good shop that will work on jugs and only repair items as necessary instead of just swapping entire jug assemblies. It is entirely possible that changing valve guides and making sure the valves seat properly are good enough, along with a cylinder hone and new rings. I had this done on my cylinders last year for ~$1500 for all 4, plus new pistons (+$600) and one new exhaust valve ($150 I think). (R&R labor not included) New cylinders for me would have been ~$7500 + labor.