Shadrach

That’s helpful!

I’m working on it now. PDFs are a bit wonky on my iPad.

Sue, did anyone complete your cross word?

Are the 201 gauges not wet? On my F, swapping these over under at the firewall will do exactly what you suggest. Oddly the threads are the same size but the fittings take different size wrenches. You can see that I faintly “sharpied” the fire wall to avoid a potential mix up.

Perhaps you should call Monroe for a consultation. https://www.monroyaero.com

We may have done that once by accident…

Mine has no transducer. It’s simply a fuel line ported off the servo with a restrictor and a pressure snubber that’s plumbed direct to the gauge. would be easy to disconnect the line at the fire wall and see how much pressure the boost pump generates

Look forward to learning how this shakes out.

Did it have any tie down rings?

It feels like a stick in the mud compared to many other makes. It’s not designed for yanking and banking but once you’re used to it, it feels fine. While heavy, there is no wasted movement, very precise.

The answer must be yes. To what degree is anyones guess. Do you have the factory removable tie down rings? Will be easy to compare your existing tie down to the LASAR tie downs. You’ll know right away if a helicoil is in your future.

I recall the 150F I flew in training taking some nose down trim as flaps were deployed (opposite of a Mooney), especially with the flaps at 40°.

As stated above, trim to neutral on approach. Full flaps require more nose up trim. If CG is in he forward part of the envelope (light on fuel and nothing in the back seats or baggage) you can run right up against the nose up trim limit. That only happens with weight in the front seats and minimum fuel. You won’t even notice it in another 20hours.

Not in my case. The LASAR bolts would slide right into the tie down boss without gripping. We drilled the old threads out and threaded in a helicoil insert that reduced the thread size to match the LASAR hardwear.

Close. They need to be drilled and helicoiled for smaller threads

So apparently there were others after me. Now that I think about it (this was 15 years ago), the LASAR bolts were too small. We had to drill out the old threads and install helicoils sized to the LASAR Jack point/tie down bolts. The only difference is that at the time they had not come across the issue and now they are recommending the solution we used as a workaround. Not that we pioneered it. It is the logical solution. I remember disliking the possibility of steel fragments floating around in an aluminum wing. We used grease to hold the shavings and vacuumed the area thoroughly.

My 67F was threaded for tie downs. I upgraded to the LASAR jack points. I needed to cut new threads to make them work. This perplexed Paul Lowen who said he’d never encountered that issue.

I am not familiar with the extended wet wing tanks. What document suggests that the tie down enters the expanded tank? I’m pretty sure the tie down/Jack point bracket is on the back side of the spar. What kind of tie downs does it currently use?

If you’re confident in the gauge is reading, I would be investigating a potential restriction somewhere. Given that neither pump will develop normal pressure, it’s conceivable that there is a restriction somewhere. We have another J owner here thats pushing 30PSI (after a boost pump failure) most of these engines run around 26psi +/- a pound. I’m on the higher end and the Aeromotors boost pump takes me right to redline (old stock Dukes added ~.5psi). 19gph is an excellent full rich number and 15psi is within specs but only just. Have you compared the pressure on one tank and then the other? I’m not trying open a can of worms, but unexplained anomalies make me uncomfortable. Especially when there is a statistically significant sample available.

That works if you stick to warm weather. If I adjusted towards max oil pressure in the summer, I’d likely be somewhere above the green on a cool start up. I would verify that fuel pressure gauge is accurate. If you’re truly within one pound of minimum fuel pressure during cruise, it would be prudent to investigate why. Most Bendix systems are set at least 5-10psi above required pressure.

Has your fuel pressure been verified? I’m 27-28psi boost pump off and right at red line with it on. 15psi is within the green but seems low.

My cowl flaps are placarded against opening above 150MIAS. Though I don’t think leaving them in trail is a problem at any speed. In level flight, the only time cooling might be an issue is at DAs above 10K while operating ROP but even that is rare.

My dukes pump was unenthusiastic for most of its life. It sounded so inconsistent it sometimes generated strange expressions from passengers during prime.

Well I will be a little controversial once again. These are not my “recommendations”, this is my SOP based on my observations from running an IO360 well over 1000 hours with excellent and continued cylinder health. Take off full Rich In climb, lean to maintain take off EGT on leanest cylinder which is #3 for my engine (and most IO360s that I’ve observed) and is consequently the factory instrumented cylinder. All LOP ops should be conducted on the richest cylinder (#2 for me and most that I have observed), that being said, most lycs peak close together. LOP ops can be conducted at any altitude WOTRAO (ram air only in clear air), easily and safely. Speed loss is minimal at lower altitudes. It is difficult to damage a cylinder that is running very cool so that is my focus. Factory temp limitations are way too high for longevity. For climb (ROP), I start making changes if CHT’s approach 370. For cruise, I start making changes if CHTs exceed 350 (rare) in the summer or 330 in the winter. I rarely approach either of those numbers so it’s not much of a concern. In winter it’s a challenge to keep all cylinders above 300 (especially 1&4). Lycoming cylinders can safely be run hotter than 350 in cruise, but the engine just does not run that hot at any LOP power setting that I have been able to achieve. Even worm burning at 1000ft and 158KIAS. (Turbo flyers understand this as they can compare ROP and LOP in ways that NA operators can only demonstrate down low). I run as close to peak on the lean side (richest cylinder) as possible but lean enough to maintain my CHT max of 330-350. The engine almost never needs more than 35 LOP to stay cool. The higher I get the closer to peak I run. At DAs above 10.5 I switch to 100ROP unless I have a nice tail wind. Operationally it looks like running an old carbed engine, except I set 2500rpm and it stays there. At any altitude, pull to slight roughness and enrich to just smooth. Ensure richest cylinder EGT (#3 for me) is selected and enrich to ~1410 (I know that cylinder generally peaks ~1455 at high power), observe CHT trend and adjust as needed. I usually end up between 15 and 30 LOP on richest cylinder It is easy. It is fast. I don’t have to pay attention to what the table says, I don’t have, nor care to pay attention to what percentage power the engine is making. I make the most power I can at the best BFSC while holding conservative CHTs. My primary metrics of concern are CHT and OAT. My engine management strategy is entirely based on what CHT is acceptable and conservative for the given OAT. That number varies throughout the year. There is no simpler way to manage power and temperatures. Optimal temps make for happy cylinders, the rest is overly complicated noise.

Leak was the failure mode for mine both times I sent out for reseal/IRAN by DG Supply twice (they don’t service dukes any longer) and then Aeromotors. The Dukes pump was never a robust device. It sounded like it was laboring, especially on cold days. Some times on cold days it would not turn on the first flick of the switch. I only used it for priming for fear of wearing it out. Upgraded dukes pump spins like a top. I leave it on for pattern work.