sleepingsquirrel

http://www.mooney.com/images/pdfs/sb-pdf/sbm20-216.pdf http://www.mooney.com/images/pdfs/sb-pdf/sbm20-62.pdf These links could be helpful.

Just to report, on tape which I have been using, cleaning off the tape residue may cause me to look for a different method. While tape is easy to put on. It can cause damage to the paint. The residue is difficult to remove when renewing the sun worn tape. I did this today and put tape back on as usual , because it is so easy and cheap and I'm lazy and not ready to try the masking and bead laying down someone mentioned. Maybe I shouldn't have used a blow torch to remove the residue!

Quote: allsmiles

This link could be helpful: http://www.mooney.com/images/pdfs/si-pdf/sim20-35.pdf

Quote: sleepingsquirrel Nothing left to say.

Quote: N6719N Mooney wings are pretty darn tough. Not likely to damage a Mooney wing by pushing on the leading edge. Sorry if I confused anybody out there.

Yes, my name is sleepingsquirrel,and I am a prop tugger. We should have a long discussion about never turning a prop because the engine will start every time. My Mooney will start if I even touch the spinner with any tangential force. It's such a sure thing I took my starter off.

Quote: gregwatts So....can we push the prop with the same hand that we pull the prop with??? Should the brakes be on or off?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnI7Z3qeW58 Yeah! What this guy said! You mean that if I can't understand what this guy said , I can't understand why I can't push or pull my Mooney by the propeller hub? I watch this stuff like it was porn!

Quote: Vref OK Squirel thanks for the info, so the aircraft spruce ones (skinny) are no good then? I think on the M20B it's a bit different..no..? On the J model the instrument panel frame (with a threaded female bushing) are holding the shock mount (male thread) and the front thread sticks out and goes throught the instrument panel.... I would assume that you just have to screw in the mount and adjust the panel over it by lifting it.. and screw on the acorn nut...? Is it correct that the instrument panel tube has a threaded bushing in metal which can hold only the 8-32 threads? Allsmiles interesting approach I'll sent a PM thanks

I just replaced some on my M20 B model. The only advise is to use a sticky dab of something on the end of the appropriate finger or thumb that will allow you to stick the lock washer and then the nut up to the end projecting behind the panel. Once the nut is started on the thread just pull away the sticky dab of something. The other way is to hire a circus contortionist and let him do it. I used some butyl tape rolled into a little ball. It was cheaper than the circus performer. I'm also lucky that I can get upside down in the leg well with my legs up over the pilots seat very comfortably. Having a helper to hand you tools and nuts and washers you drop is a good thing. Have more nuts and lock washers than you need because you probably don't want you male helper getting that personal with you trying to retrieve a dropped lock washer, if you can get a good looking girl helper she will quit when she realizes you are dropping stuff on purpose. If I had to do it again I would just get a bungee cord and support the panel from the most convenient overhead spot. I would go with the fat ones the correct depth as you will see the skinny ones droop a little bit even when new.

One should never hand prop an airplane because the torque applied by the "armstrong starter" is the wrong direction for what the crankshaft was designed. I guess this discussion has made me realize that I can pull by the prop hub but not "PUSH" on the prop hub because it a force in the wrong direction as designed according to the laws of physics and the engineering types. How did we get all those Cubs and Taylorcrafts started? Without damaging the crank shaft?

What kind of towbar are you using that can slip out? The tow bar that slips out is the one which you are pulling very hard upon, also the slippage factor is proprotional to the number of onlookers that can be amused when you fall /stumble backwards about 5 feet and land on your a$$. By the way, I am physically unable to generate 180 HP at the hub of my Mooney's propeller, nor can I generate the gyroscopic loads of a climbing turn into the wild blue younder.

Quote: DonMuncy

I expect the $37 baggage door hinge to pay for itself on the next XC flight. My mechanic said that the front of the door was popping up and acting like a speed brake. I wondered where that draft was coming from!

On condition: chaffed and leaking, burned and leaking, kinked creating a weak spot, cut and leaking, etc. I just had my annual completed and the AP told me that the teflon hoses would be intact and working long after he and I were gone. That they would never need to be changed. Good luck, My annual was right at $990.57 , I got a new baggage door hinge, a nose tire replaced (I supplied the tire) , 14 hours in labor for the inspection and a few hours for researching the ADs and the repairs. My bird was as clean as a whistle with not ONE AD hanging.

This is the link to the service bulletin, but the 200 MPH tape is easier and less expensive. http://www.mooney.com/images/pdfs/sb-pdf/sbm20-97.pdf

There is a service bulletin for a metal strip which could have been purchased in years past. Where I'm from duct tape works well. I would recommend this 200 MPH tape instead of the 100 MPH stuff. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-RED-RACER-DUCT-TAPE-200MPH-IMCA-/400242713410?pt=Race_Car_Parts&vxp=mtr&hash=item5d30532342

http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAD.nsf/MainFrame?OpenFrameSet try this link ,appears that it is MAY be subject to AD. http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAD.nsf/0/EBA0AE4E9806FF2F86256B090063A4BC?OpenDocument

Truly, if any of you have these scrap engines I could arrange getting them off you hands. I won't charge much for taking them away.