mulro767

I just figured out that the alarms on my JPI EDM-700 can be adjusted. For my IO-360 I set my oil temp at 200, CHT and 390, max cooling at 50. What's a good max differential for EGT? It was set at 500 but I'm thinking 100 would be useful. Maybe even lower?

My first PnP trip with Sadie. She is going to chase birds away at KLEX. Watch out for her. 3 year old border collie. http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/33550-gopr4722/

I don't know. Maybe the paint might be chipping or fading? But I for one like the original paint scheme. I wish somebody would modernize it and still keep that 201 tail. Has anyone ever done that with new paint? I'm not a fan of watching a 201 turn into a wannabe Acclaim or Ovation. Don't get me wrong, those paint jobs are hot! But would someone with a Cub do that? Or stick with the standard black on yellow? Just my opinion. Congratulations Jamie! You did good.

Exactly what I wanted to hear. I'm slipping and sliding in Minnesota. I can move my airplane on my own easily in dry conditions. I'll keep looking. Thanks!

I was just looking at this. Did you ever buy one?

That's impressive! Talk about a contaminated runway!!!

Ok, I will try not to complain anymore about Minnesota! I'll give your little trick a try. My girlfriend (co-pilot) will not be happy about the door though. Can she borrow your face scarf?

I've been running a cabin heater at the same time as my engine pre-heat. But not 24/7. My cabin and gyros are all warmed up when I get in. But the windows fog up quickly. That doesn't happen to you? I'm in MN as well.

Anybody else having problems with moisture on the inside windows? When I pull my airplane out to fly on a cold day, I get in and my breathe starts to fog the windows up. That moisture quickly turns to frost. My engine pre-heats works very well and my oil temp is already at 150* but I don't feel comfortable taking off with my self induced IMC. Opening the storm window helps a little but then I sacrifice the heat. Has anyone ever used RainX anti-fog? Is it safe to use on plastic?

I make a habit to manually trim until it gets warmed up and turns easily, then I'll start using electric trim. Luckily, the trim wheel is right in from of my heater outlet on my J and warms up quick. Mine is very stiff when it's cold.

I just did this today on a Pilots and Paws flight. I was North though. I went across at ISQ-SJX-CVX (Manistique, WI to Beaver Island to Charlevoix, MI) . I was easily in gliding distance to an airport at all times at 9,000'. And spectacular scenery too!

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=202907209&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&MERCH=REC%2d%5f%2dSearchPLPHorizontal1%2d4%2d%5f%2dNA%2d%5f%2d202907209%2d%5f%2dN#.UOUb_aWzdjI

I bought a Stanley from Loew's for around $70. But you can go cheaper online. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-675900-Pro-Ceramic-Pivoting-Utility/dp/B000LF2CBE Then you'll need to fasten a 6" to 4" aluminum reducer to some ducting with some cheap O-Rings. I used aluminum tape to fasten it to heater. Simply unscrew the black cover to heat outlet and tape the 6" side around outlet. You may have to bend the 6" side a bit since the outlet of the heater is rectangular. But here's where I wouldn't go cheap. That cheap aluminum ducting gets very hot, loses heat, and can scratch your paint. I spent around $90 on about 10' of rubber coated HVAC duct tubing. I went to an HVAC store for that. It won't scratch your paint and really holds the heat.. It's stiff as hell at first but it's slowly loosening up. I stick it in my pilots window and wedge a cheap sponge in to close up the space. Works perfect!

Yes he has an iPhone app but I believe that one is in the works for android. But you don't need an app really. There are several texts you can send for two outlets. So if I wanted, I could turn on my engine pre-heat with one text option, and in the other outlet have my ceramic cabin heat. But if it's cold, it's cold, and I've already moved. So I'm turning both on at once. Also, outlet 1 is phone/text. So if you don't have text, you can simply call the number and it turns on. Call it again and it turns off. I tested it at home on a light and it works great. http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/33473-/

Oh almost forgot. www.pilotportraits.com

I just wanted to let you all know of my experience with Phillip, his product, and his competition. I moved from Atlanta, GA to Minneapolis, MN last spring and I quickly learned that engine pre-heat is a must have. I installed a Tanis system and built a ceramic heater to heat the cabin. I initially had it all tied into a programmable timer. But living 15 miles away from my hanger made it an inconvenient hassle to run out and program the timer costing me time and gas money. The decision was made to purchase a cellular activated switch. My mistake was not coming here, to Mooneyspace, for recommendations on products first. There really is only two products that I am aware of. SwitchBox and Cell switch. I saw an ad in Aero magazine for Cell Switch and liked the price. I ordered it and it was delivered in about a week. I opened the box. Inside was the unit itself and a CD. But no paper instructions. I inserted the CD into my MacBook Pro and nothing happened. I opened the file and it wouldn't read the software. It was only compatible with Windows. Ouch. So I called Aero and asked where the customer support number was. They didn't know but they called me back with the owner of Cell Switch's number. I called that number several times and never received any support. Back in the box it went and back to Aero for a full refund. So I ordered the SwitchBox from Phillip. It came in about 4 days. When it came I had a couple of small glitches and emailed Phillip. He responded immediately and offered to talk on the phone to help. This was on Christmas Eve! The SwitchBox works exactly as advertised. Even comes with a pre-paid $10 T-Mobile sim card. It has an iPhone app. It is Mac friendly I guess. I give the SwitchBox an A+. Phillip too. Happy New Year!

KSSI. St. Simons Island. You can walk to dozens of great restaurants. 1 mile walk maybe. Or have a cab pick you up. Try Brogen's. I miss that place.

Yea I see what you're saying. A fouled plug would have a lower EGT on that cylinder? That would make sense.

Yea I leaned aggressively at 2000 for about 5 minutes the first time and didn't see any difference. The #4 cylinder had the high EGT when running on both. On the right mag it ran rough. On the left mag it was smooth and all EGT's leveled evenly. I did a longer run up with mixture lean and it didn't help. I'll head back out on monday and try again. Think I should do a longer run-up? I know these things sometimes fix themselves but not sure if there's anything else I can do before I take off the cowling.

So I went out to fly today and did a normal run up and mags checked good. When I was cleared for takeoff I started to add power and before I released my breaks, I noticed my JPI EDM-700 was flashing. It was flashing a max difference of 170 EGT on #4. I discontinued and asked to return to the run-up area. I did another run-up and this time with mags on both, the #4 EGT was very high 1560 and all others around 1420, all CHTs normal around 310. Switched over to R mag and there was engine roughness. On the L mag all EGT's evened out. So I ran the engine leaned out for about 15 minutes on the ground and tried several more times with no luck. How long does it take to clear out a fouled plug? Any other suggestion before I remove the cowl? This is my second flight after my annual and he said all my spark plugs looked good.