Beard

I do similar to MikeOH on a hot start. I pull the mixture at 1,000 RPM to shut down and when I restart I slowly push the mixture in (without touching the throttle) while cranking. It typically catches when the mixture is the richest. The is a Youtube video demonstrating this.

Thank you everyone for your replies.

Does anyone know where I can find an Aerosonic Indicator Manifold Pressure and Fuel Flow gage for a 1979 M20K. Part number 651035-0207. It is original equipment for this aircraft.

Many years ago I lost the red button too. I ended up buying a new switch just for the button. I did not get a cheap switch, but a more expensive one.

What a coincidence. Just today I sumped the fuel in my J and the valve would not close. I had to drain the full tank and order a new part from Aircraft Spruce. I needed the same part numbers detailed by others in this link.

The insurance on my M20J decreased by 12% this year. I am in Canada. I turn 70 next year so am wondering if I will get hit with an increase because of that.

Thank you everyone for the sage advice on ADS-B. I will ponder it and decide what to do.

I have a 1984 M20J with what I believe is original equipment. It has a King KT 79 transponder. I want to install ADS-B, in and out. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should purchase that can be installed easily with my current equipment. I am not an expert on this stuff so if I have phrased anything awkwardly please excuse me.

I have a 1984 M20J with what I believe is original equipment. It has a King KT 79 transponder. I want to install ADS-B, in and out. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should purchase that can be installed easily with my current equipment. I am not an expert on this stuff so if I have phrased anything awkwardly please excuse me.

I start mine successfully, warm or hot doing the following. I bring the RPM down to 1,000, then mixture idle cutoff to stop. To start I touch nothing and as I crank the engine, I push the mixture forward slowly until it catches. There is a Youtube video on this.

I thought I had to replace my rails, but it ended up being the seat. Someone on this forum showed a picture where his seat cracked and mine had cracked in the exact same spot. I posted a picture of my seat crack too. Try searching the archives for seat cracks. What made it evident that it was my seat that was the problem was when I swapped the pilot's and passenger seats around and and the problem went away for my seat. I am building an RV10 with a few friends and one of them was the sales representative for Cherry Max rivets in Canada and he raved about these rivets. I had decided that if I had to change my rails I would definitely use Cherry Max.

Two pictures of center probe gone. There are three plugs in the pictures. The two on the right have the damage and the one on left does not and is there for comparison.

The engine on my M20J ran rough today. I pulled the plugs and two of the bottom fine wired (URHM38S) had the center probe burnt of, if that is the correct phrase. I installed them in January 2019 and flew 183 hours on them. I will contact Tempest to see if they can offer a credit on new ones.

As many have said, there appears to be two many holes. It does look like the factory one piece belly on my 1984 M20J. Mine uses cam locks.

Mine J is a 1984 and I believe it is the first year with the one piece belly pan. So that gets my vote.