OR75

in this new world of GA I had to wait 5 weeks for a part. I took that as an opportunity to change the oil. And since I had plenty of time I let it drain for almost 4 weeks and flushed the oil cooler. Usually, when I change the oil, I let the oil drain a day or 2 I was amazed how much oil dripped in 4 weeks - my guess is like 1/3 quart the bonus is after I ran the engine, the oil was still a light yellow color. Usually it darkens pretty fast with what was left in the sump. if you have a plane sitting in a shop a few weeks and have the oil changed, asked them to drain the oil at the start and let it drain as long as it sits there.

something every pilot owner can tell the significant other is a must have for safety reasons

checked the probes ? easy to switch them and get that out of the way

another option you may keep an eye one: if you get the Hartzel scimitar , then when comes engine overhaul , you can go the IO-390 route and get 10 more HP. should help the climb perf and no loss in cruising speed

McCauleys: C212 or C214 Hartzel scimitar prop 2 blades

Rapco

I installed them about a year ago. they work just fine.

there is a good seminar from Savvy about how typically you sense old engines slowly but surely getting tired (less power, more oil consumption, good old noise engine, ...) while new engines are more prone to catastrophic failure. so, if I was an insurance company maybe new engines should go with a higher premium ! having said that, what I am seeing with my good old engine - an IO-360-A3B6D about 500 hours past TBO (good compression, no metal in the oil) - is that the accessories start getting tired (governor for example) and the appearance is not so great (chipped paint, some rust points, ...) I do fly it regularly about once a week

I am pretty sure the prop will not stop spinning at 2000.01

yes, it did part number should be engraved on the part

I want to replace the 2 hoses going to and from the oil cooler the fittings are $450+ / each (90degrees and 45degrees) ! Any shop would reuse the fittings to built a new hose ? Any good reason not to re-use the fittings ?

any option to borrow a 165 (or 155) to test ?

it looks drill stopped

I get it. The leak repair in the MM is a recommendation. not called a patch but really the same thing. calls for removing old sealant around the leak (usually a rivet or nut)

I wonder how many actually do that