scottfromiowa

Kevin, Glad you found at annual! Thanks for sharing. I would definitely like to see photos of this damage. I have never heard of this type of failure in a Mooney. Again, glad story has happy ending.

I have never done the (regarding hot start procedure) turn on boost pump 2-3 seconds with mixture at cut-off..(to pressureize the fuel) this makes some sense. I have been quick with mixture, but have NOT fluttered the throttle...I will give this technique a try...I have had success...and frustration with the leave it alone and crank...then mixture for hot start. Thanks for the link to the article.

I have not seen these charts regarding internal cylinder pressure being highest at 50 ROP. I'll try to check it out. If in a turbo and not my IO360 apples to oranges on chart data. I don't run lean of peak, but used 50 ROP as a fuel saving compromise between performance 100 ROP and fuel economy peak/LOP operation at altitude in cruise. (per Bob's article). My fuel flow and cylinder head temps have been fine at this setting...I always fly full throttle in cruise and climb unless down low (cruise). What I have read was temp as engine killer NOT pressure regarding TBO on engine...HMMmmmm? Of course I back off down low because of manifold pressure extremes to 25 squared max.

I have had NO issues with running 50 degrees ROP on my '66 M20E. I agree with Bob Kromer's power settings for climb, cruise and decent as written in MAPA. I lean aggressively on the ground and run full throttle in climb and cruise unless down low and I will keep it at 25 squared. As long as my cylinders are running cool I don't get concerned about EGT fluctuations. I don't understand all this 24 squared stuff and have NOT heard a good reason why people are reducing power in climb and cruise...and what is the big prejudice against 3 blade props? I get excellent speed, climb performance and no vibration issues with my McCaulley.

Hey Brian...Tell them to paint your tow bar Gold too!

I have same battery and SkyTech. They are a winner. I will never go back to a non-maintenance free aircraft battery.

Anybody switch to the maintenance free sealed battery? I did and 1.5 years later am glad I made the switch.

I installed a Gem 602 (used off of ebay) with new probes for my M20E and could not be happier. The lean find is a nice tool as well as informationon for all four cylinders. I have no desire to track data and don't value the digital temp readout as I can see what they are doing with the bars...The 602 was a bargain and has provided all I need to have a good handle on the engine...vs. waiting for $ and continuing to use a single probe for cylinder and exhaust. I really believe that these are critical (multi-probe engine monitor) to know health and management of your engine...but if someone wants to trade me for a newer unit with bells and whistles I'm all in.

I installed a Gem 602 (used off of ebay) with new probes for my M20E and could not be happier. The lean find is a nice tool as well as informationon for all four cylinders. I have no desire to track data and don't value the digital temp readout as I can see what they are doing with the bars...The 602 was a bargain and has provided all I need to have a good handle on the engine...vs. waiting for $ and continuing to use a single probe for cylinder and exhaust. I really believe that these are critical (multi-probe engine monitor) to know health and management of your engine...but if someone wants to trade me for a newer unit with bells and whistles I'm all in.

When I purchased my '66 E the step did not properly retract. The spring was kaput. I remember thinking it looked like an open can of kippers and cost only about $10 to replace (cost of part)...one of the least expensive parts I've ever replaced on X-Ray. Tri-Flow (spray can) is a WONDERFUL lubricant that works well in this type of application. "When people are waiting for me and see shut-down they always comment about the "neat step". I tell them it's just happy to see you...

I had a flap "incident" last week. Took a short trip of about 30 minutes (to show my mechanic a couple of updates) and on short final whent to pump flaps down and...nothing. No pressure at handle. Brakes still functioned and taxied over and ultimately had to bleed air out of system (remove belly to access) and ended up pulling hydraullic valve and replacing gaskets. Had to force hydraullic fluid through reservoir/add and pump like mad to eliminate air/get flaps to function. I had a small leak also that allowed air into brake hydraullic lines. I don't always use flaps when light/just me, but will now make 100% certain I cycle flaps when family/added weight and necessity to have flaps is present during pre-flight. I hope you resolve your issue O.K. Good stuff on the solution Tony. Scott

Mitch, I understand your frustration...I fly out of CID and have my hanger "inside the fence'. I am required...if I want to continue to hanger...to submit to the background check for badge issuance. I get it, the airport carries passengers and they are required to have the security procedures in place...what is frustrating is that after having had my hanger/badge/keys for over 5 years when I came due for "re-badging" even though I had already been screened my drivers license and aairport badge with photo did NOT qualify for re-issue. I had to bring out my SS card that was photocopied and maintained by airport security...I know they are just following rules...but had to make four trips to do this as they didn't have me sign one area...had to sit through a 45 minute power point presentation...again. Bottom line is that I choose to hanger inside the fence. I value knowing my plane is secure in a locked hanger inside the fence...Is it a pain in the @$$...absolutely do I curse every time I fly commercial yes, but I curse because terrorists have forced our country to give up some of our freedom...I don't curse the government on this one...We must keep the skies safe. Do I wince when a fellow pilot decides to use his plane to check out by targeting the IRS...yes. Be an AOPA member, if you are NOT and you are a pilot shame on you. They are fighting for our rights as GA pilots. The Gov't does what they always do...tax, spend and make laws that punish the many for the indecretions of the few. Just between me and you if I had been the one responding to the Detroit guy trying to light his underwear...he would NOT have had the opportunity to have been read his rights. His trachea would have been crushed...end of terrorist. End of rant, er I mean response. Have a great weekend everyone!

Randy, Roy L did a fine job with the J, but the big guy didn't do to bad designing that view behind you! (photo) Wow that is spectacular. Nothing in Iowa to compare with that. Must be beautiful from the air too.

I love my '66 E, but if money were NO object I would happily take a 1990 MSE...Love the fold/down removable rear seats and the ergonomic and aesthetic improvements are there BUT I will debate the merits of the manual gear and manual hydraullic flaps all day any day over the later electric gear...In this instance simple is IS simple does. If I could open my garage door without getting out of the car...without an electric opener...I'd prefer that too. But as a Cayman is superior to a 1960's 911...so is an MSE to an M20E...but the old 911 is still a blast to drive...and fast.

Hmmmm -Smooth belly, check -201 windshield, check -cowl closure, check -light weight starter, check -No extra back windows, check -201 speed, check -Modified left pilot panel and upgraded avionics, check -Over 950lb's useful load, check Stone simple Johnson bar gear and mechanical flaps...no motors, actuators, tough manual action...check M20E-the "Every mans" 201. But the 201 cowl and mods ARE pretty...Just not $40k pretty. It's nice and cool at 7,500 feet.

The link says glareshield for 201, but photo is of an older M20, right?

Quick addendum...The bolt(s) I received was an AN4-23A vs. your AN4-24A...called Mooney service center parts...just to confirm and the only difference is one thread on the bolt...same diameter etc... Scott

Thanks Chris! Perfect. I did also receive the two set screws (separate bag). They are small and would indeed be easy to miss! Thanks again for the response and the parts photo. Very helpful. Scott

I'm living YOUR dream too...vicariously...You go Bryan.

Quick question regarding yoke modification in pre-J Mooney. Purchased yokes and shafts, but there were NO pins/bolts or set screws for installation. I called my area Mooney service center and was told that it calls for an AN4-23A Bolt...I received and it is a bolt vs. a pin and hasa washer and locking nut. Does anyone have these yokes? Do yours have a bolt/nut vs. a pin? Thanks for your replies, Scott

Yes, I had a "holy $#%^" moment when I was rapidly losing altitude to get down to pattern and 496 said warning rapid decent...or something to that effect. Gets your attention when it yells "terrain alert" too. Nice to have the audible warnings/alerts. They are a potential life saver. Do you have a multi-probe engine analyzer? This is a must have on your future shopping list too...scott being a siren...can't wait to see your paint pics. Enjoy! Scott

Flush rivets in wings, retractable step, johnson bar and superior zinc galvonizing were areas I looked at and an old consumer aviation article quoting Charley DuGosh(sp) saying that '66-'67 Mooney's had the smoothest wings of any years...(at that time)...and STAY away from wood wings, unless you need a flower planter in your yard...his words not mine. I would say 65-67 for pre-J M20E are the cream years. Most built and have the square vs. round windows...

Jose, My point with the HID light is that you get a super bright light at low taxi RPM due to the low power draw of the HID lighting systems vs. the old sealed beam quartz landing lights...and no filiment and super long life allowing the HID to be used as recognition while in flight. No need to burn brakes taxing at high rpm with HID lighting system...and the quality of light is a huge safety advantage during landing/take-off. The XEVision light (now at Aircraft Spruce) is WAY cheaper than the Boom-Beam light. I purchased and installed for price of Boom-Beam and at that time got a higher lumen light.

Let me know how your research goes Bryan. If you are modifying hinges the price tag seems way high. The labor must be really significant. I understand seat was not designed to fold...but $3k is a lot of labor. I bought a whole interior for an F for under $400...(used of course) That's all four seats, carpet and plastic...The front seats have exact rail pin as my '66, but the front seats are better bolstered and have head rests. I have in shop "converting" my fabric from old seats into newer seats. My recline on both of my seats (large round knob) did NOT work properly causing both seats to be more reclined than either my wife or I desired. I built up with sheepskin and Oregon Aero seat/lumbar cushion to make old pilot chair adequate. Can't wait to fly with new seats...should be completed in a couple of weeks.

OUCH! How could the cost be so high for this? Sigh....That's a Non-starter...