cliffy

What would be the cost to hire a DER to approve a gear design? That's all that's needed Then you could go OPP

My father was one of those who could make any manual machine tool sing and dance. He started during WWI and retired in the 70s as Manager of Mechanical Production for a large oil exploration company where he held 2 patents. He also bought the first Moog automatic tape controlled machining center in Los Angeles back in the early 60s. Time has a way of marching on regardless of what we want or do. We are in the inevitable decline of the airplanes built during the heyday of GA aviation (of the 60s and 70s) to a newer type/style of plastic airplanes and not traditional sheet metal construction. Brought to market by a plethora of manufacturers rather than the limited big 3 or so we are familiar with. Our form of aviation (Cessna. Piper. Mooney etc) is a dying breed. We can prop up our antique airplanes for only so long until age takes its final toll. Its no different than the hot rod culture of the 60s and 70s with the 327s and 440s, modified sedans and pickups. That too is a dying pass time as we move into more emissions/modification controls and rules. They too will be mostly gone in 25 years as the subject vehicles reach the 90-100 year old arena AS OUR AIRPLANES ARE TODAY. They don't make them any more and we kill more of them every year than what they do make. Enjoy them while you can. They will be gone in the not too distant future. Just like the skilled machinist of yesteryear.

Well maybe $10 for 500 business cards and a local business license would a swage their fears?

You also need a GOOD wire stripper for small 22 and 24 ga wire Dynon uses sub d plugs so crimpers for the pins are easy to find (@$40) Make sure you get the smaller crimpers and pins for 20 ga wire and smaller.

When the plane is up on jacks be sure to check the spindle bolt bushing for excess wear by trying to move the nose wheel fore and aft Excess wear is repairable Also the bolt nut torque is covered by a service instruction for checking its torque every annual. Be advised to find the correct torque figure as it was changed in later years to a lower figure. It also takes a lot of grease every year in the zirc fitting.

An A&P school may have one as we did in my A&P school. We had to learn how to take a reading on it. As I mentioned in the other thread- any thought of using a DER for the design approval?

The South African way works for OPP just like dealing with McFarland on engine controls. I didn't read all 6 pages but was any mention made of hiring a DER to get an approved design for the gears? Once approved by a DER any decent gear maker could make them up to the spec required by the DER. Seems just right for a group project. If anyone hasn't disassembled the actuator and inspected it as required its only a matter of time before the airplane is a hood ornament awaiting parts. My right arm is still pretty strong! .

YEP Looks like they pulled the rope on it OH well, it was good while it lasted

YUP that's why I posted the warning so others don't click through on the link. Its now a scammer link I think

Just had a hangar neighbor 2 hangars down spin in on a base to final turn yesterday in Provo Utah in a Cirrus

They sure look good.

When you have it up on jacks try moving the nose wheel fore and aft for play there also. The main vertical bolt and bushing can get play in it also especially if it is not lubed at every Annual AND having the bolt and nut retightened every annual as a SB (IIRC) says to do AND again the torque was lessened many years ago by that SB.

I think the above skyranch hot link is a spam scammer link BE CAREFUL it wants you to download something

As it doesn't meet the BOOK for alignment technically some future IA could question it on an annual (and maybe should to protect his license as it is visible on a walk around ramp check). The actual rerig is not too hard to do but the fly off retrim for hands off flying might be. My question would be - if its that far off visibly how far off are the actual deflection settings and stab pitch limits as prescribed in the TCDS? It could affect your recovery from a stall or even worse a spin.

And as Walter Cronkite used to say- "That's the way it is" I'm of the opinion that it comes from over tightening the taper pin every 500 hrs, on a cast part. Like mentioned above my 64 has an AN bolt through it and has never shown a crack on dye check. As to "making or using non-approved parts"? Anyone ever hear of "Primary Category" ?

A final word of caution (as I've noted before) NEVER try to takeoff with full nose down trim! There is no way that the airplane will rotate! You WILL go straight off the end of runway if you don't get stopped before then end. This has happened to several Mooneys over the years.

Unless the shop has a trim board for checking the elevator and stab angles and willing to jack the airplane to level fore and aft it won't get done during any annual. Airplane has to be leveled Stabilizer set to a specific Leading Edge down setting using the trim board AND then the elevator up angle is checked and set by adjusting the spring bungees on the inboard ends of the elevators (adjusting the fwd ends of the bungee control rod and NOT trying to adjust by the spring retainer nuts at the aft edge of the bungee unit!!) This is all spelled out in the Mooney TCDS (Type Certificate Data Sheet) a portion of which I have clipped below. You will notice that the elevator up angles and the P/N of the bungees are different via serial number. You being a 1970 model I believe you will fall in the after 680001 number field. Be sure to look at the cautionary note on the extension springs at the bottom if you decide to have someone adjust these settings. You will also notice that the later Fs have a higher elevator bungee angle than the earlier ones. Something to think about if you have pitch trim issues. Control Surface Movements Stabilizer (L.E.)................Up.......½° to 1'.............Down ........5¼° to 5¾° Elevator Trim Assist Unit (for Aircraft with Serial Nos. to 680001): With stabilizer set at 3½' negative setting to the thrust line, adjust trim assist unit 740128 for elevator up angle of 5' =/-1'at the zero spring travel position. VII. Model M20F (cont’d) Elevator Trim Assist Unit (for Aircraft with Serial Nos. 680001 and up): With stabilizer set at 3' negative setting to the thrust line, adjust trim assist bungees 740188 for elevator position of 19' +/-1' at the zero spring travel position of the bungees. (This rigging to be obtained before installation of the 740171 extension springs). Leveling means Edge of skin splice over aft fuselage radio access panel. Spirit level is used to level.

I might agree with PT20J "Approach speed" I too use about 65 to 70 MPH over the fence but Ill have to relook at my settings next flight. Just as a guess only- are you sure all your elevator settings are correct ? I've seen them screwed up on several airplanes BTW- I lost a good friend many many years ago at KPOC in a Comanche at night in the rain. Used to fly there a lot from KSMO taking the boss in his Navajo,

Here's a question for those with near or full up trim on landing- Have you ever figured your CG position with the load you are landing at just to see where it sits? Maybe you might run the actual numbers and report back I'm interested in knowing what others see for CG with the front seats only filled If I put 2 big guys in the front of my D/C with full fuel (still under MGW) I show my CG out front of the envelope. This could/would account for your need for lots of up trim. With just me and my wife up front we are aft (but not by much) of the FWD CG line. If I have bags in the back and the CG goes further aft I have less up trim on landing and my speed can increase up to 5 kts in cruise (less trim drag).

Be sure to use "close tolerance" bolts when you reassemble. NOT just ordinary AN bolts IF you had play in the tail in excess of the small amount allowed be sure it was not just from using regular AN bolts! I have found a couple of airplanes out of tolerance for the wiggle and it turned out they had plain AN bolts in the hinge bushings instead of the required "close tolerance" bolts.

In the future I see lots of "field overhauls" done to "overhaul fits" instead of "new fits" and the use of ground crankshafts (you can go .010 under in most cases_ and still meet "overhaul" standards, Same with piston fits, cylinder bores, ground cams and lifters. It all can be done legally and safely or it wouldn't be in the Lycoming manual. There is no reason why a field overhaul done overhaul limits shouldn't perform just as good a a new engine. It all depends on who does it. I also see a market in hoarding "used" engine parts and pieces as the supply of NEW dries up.

Like I have said before- It might not be the A&P world that I was trained in 60 years ago I guess. Just one item- we had 60 (yes 60) bend allowance projects to work out on paper in just part of the sheet metal training I did in A&P school. I hated that task. Although I can do it, sheet metal was not my best subject. I was always an engine man. But the dog house really is just a simple project in sheet metal. AND its not even structural!

YUP!

Just to be a bit nit picky with a smile :-) The AC Spruce tinnermans come with an "NAS" qualification cert A1789-8Z-1D (or such ) and the hardware store ones do not. All hardware used on certified aircraft need to come with a design cert even if they look like the same design (AN, MS, Space Qualified, etc) Again I'm just being nit picky here but I've been that way for 60 years in this business.