podair

very interesting offer, I have an EDM 700 with fuel flow. Looking to add 1+2+3 and oil temp, maybe oil pressure too.

what's really funny is that the 1967 M20F POH has 10k ft 2500 rpm = 179 mph true (155 kt), while the 1969 one has 168 mph (146kt), much closer to typical performance ! Clearly some in marketing got told to tone it down somewhat!

sorry my 9 o'clock is 150 MPH indicated, not 145 but usually only gets to 150 on a good day, 145 more typical. So usually this translates to 142-145kts at 9-10k feet with 33 litres set and ram air, peak/slightly LOP. The book says I should be faster and there are slicker M20Fs out there but frankly that's pretty good already for me for a stock 1967 with 3 blader, and close to what Lood and other get. This has worked on the same routes over and over again the last six years, except the day my step failed to retract and I lost 5kt! Going to ROP does not seem to push it much quicker, apart from the fuel flow. http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36507-m20f-cruise-left/ http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36508-/

145mph indicated = 126 kt which normally translates to 144/145 knots true sir speed at my typical cruise altitudes, 9-10k feet Basically I find it pretty tough to push the Asi needle further than the 9 o clock position which is 145 mph on mine! I can eke out a couple more kts with significantly more power and hence fuel but not really worth it.

As posted on the previous speed contest threads, I get a consistent 140ktas+ at 65% at higher altitudes with my stock 1967 M20F, no mods, 3 blade hartzell. The sweetspot is around 8000-10000 where I normally get 143 to 145 with 8.5gph (33 litres) leaned at peak/very slightly lop. Not bad and pretty efficient, despite being miles away from the POH (funny enough later POHs post 1970 are more realistic!). I systematically run the E6b app on my GPS to cross check, and over 5 years on the same routes over and over again I get 143-145ktas at 9 or 10k feet. The thing I am slightly frustrated with is at lower altitudes it is very difficult to get past 135ktas , basically at any altitude I struggle to get the ASI past the 145mph marking. Even if I really go ROP, I probably only gain a couple knots , not worth the fuel flow. So at any altitude I just set 47/48 (rpm+map) and lean to peak and usually get 145mph indicated on 8.5gph, which at higher altitudes translates to 145ktas or thereabouts.

good memory! I was in Spain for a couple years, now back in the UK, and fly mostly UK<->France

Looks like my setup is different as I have electric gear so there is a large fairing and a large heating vent. two little vents in the pilot and copilot footwells.

Front seats are fine, the heating vent below the throttle is like a blast furnace, but little gets to back. basically I cook and they freeze. there are small vents in the rear footwells but hardly any hot air is coming from that. there is definitely a big draft coming from the back of the rear seats.

Hi my back seat passenger often complain they are freezing. It seems a lot of cold air is coming from the base of the rear seat on my 1967 M20F, just between the back of the back seats and the baggage area. There are two large rectangular vents there and as they are directed towards the baggage compartment I am not sure what their function is (there are little louvres on the side of the fuselage at that level, approx at the trailing edge of the wing). Is there any objection to blocking these with foam or something else? actually looking at my parts manual, it says 'baggage compartment exhaust'....

I seem to be experiencing a similar problem after a few months of inactivity (plane was stored in hangar). Gauge works OK , up and down, then after prolonged flight WOT it does not read under 24in if you reduce the throttle, however the gear warning horn sounds if you pull all the way back (needle stays stuck at 24) so the problem is definitely on the gauge side (where does the gear horn take its reading?). Could this be a bit of goo in the line or is my original gauge showing signs of age. How easy is it to disconnect and clean the tube for someone with two left hands (my mechanic is 600nm away and an oil change is all I have managed to do on my own so far)? I have a spare gauge (combined MAP/Fuel pressure) but if I can fix the MAP side first without fiddling with the fuel pressure line, I'd rather do that then start replacing it and having to play with fuel lines.

if you have an existing EDM 700 with fuel flow, do you have to re-do the whole installation from scratch or can you use the existing wiring? I am thinking of upgrading to an EDM 900 if I redo the whole panel.

As requested, I have uploaded a couple pictures of my KY 197 for sale, my last flight, long flight across France at night. Sorry I don't have any better pictures of it right now as it I am away from the aircraft, but can pull it out of the rack next week and take more photos if needed. http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36333-ky-197-cropped/ http://mooneyspace.com/gallery/image/36332-mooney-ky-197-at-night/

I have a KY197 working perfectly for sale, if anyone still interested. Upgrading the radio stack. $500 including shipping (as I am shipping from Europe) or nearest offer. This has been my main Com1 radio and has been flawless, but we need 8.33 spacing in Europe for IFR as of now. I have not pulled it from the stack yet, but if any takers can ship next week prior to the aircraft going for its annual. As you can see my panel is overdue for upgrade, but in the meantime I am keeping the other one on the right (ky96a) for now as it is more recent and is 760 channels (ky 197 is 720 I believe?), but will replace it soon as well.

whoa! looks great... I also have a 'sixties orange' 1967 M20F and looking to do the cowl and windshield mod too!

Looks great already! I am looking to do the same with my M20F panel. one thing to watch out for is the space behind the panel as the hsi might be too long and hit the control tube.