podair

my aircraft is a 1967 M20F with a three blade prop but otherwise completely standard (no mods), still has the original factory paint! Funny enough I don't get anything near the 1967 POH speeds , but I have a set of 1974 charts which are spot on! as posted earlier in the main discussion, I tend to fly high, routinely 10k ft, full throttle and peak EGT/slighly lean using an EDM 700. I always get 145kt tas and 32ltrs per hour (8.5gal), normally works out 140-145mph indicated. Higher at 12k I d get 142ish and 30 (7.5). Lower I use the power charts to be around 70%, always 2500, and usually get 140/145mph indicated. At 65% I get around 135mph indicated. Optimum loafing around settings seem to be 2200rpm/22in at 2000ft (no restrictions with the 3 blade), 50deg lop and get 26ltrs per hour which is around 6.5gals US.

yet another thread on LOP. power settings etc... has anyone got any comments, good or bad, on my power setting procedure on my M20F equipped with and EDM 700 without GAMIs, and a 3 blade hartzell , no mods. I have been operating it like that for a year now (since the edm installation) and everything (checks , oil consumption and analysis) seems fine. Previously I was running 100 rop on stock gauge. I get consistent 145kt tas on 8.5gal which is pretty good my regular flights involve a climb to 10k ft from sea level (crossing the english channel to France so like to stay high, I have o2), and then 2hrs cruise - take off: full throttle, full rich, at 500ft reduce RPM just a hair (off the mechanical stop) , but not MAP - climb : 120mph, full rich until 5000ft, start leaning to 150 rop, ram air open since 3k if in clear air. CHTs in the mid 300s, only get 400 on number 3 with very high OAT (90F plus) in summer, other cyls are around 360 and that I think is also due the bayonet probe on 3 as it seems to read 40 higher on average (stock gauge stays in green). I tried the constant EGT approach but not comfortable with it. In hot weather if I get 400 I lower the nose if practicable. - level off at 10k: still full throttle, reduce to 2500rpm , at this point I get 21-22in MAP, lean to peak EGT?slighly lop (20F). All cylinders peak within a litre of each other so dont think I need GAMIs. invariably, I get 145 kt TAS , 32 ltrs per hour (8.5gal) and all temps nice and cool. My CHT are in the low 300s with number 3 being 40 higher (due to bayonet probe), usually no more than 360 in cruise. According to the power charts that 's around 65-68% power. At 9k I get 0.75gal higher. at 12k , 0.75 lower, roughly same tas. If lower , I reduce MAP to be below 70% power. - descent: reduce MAP a tad, to 20, and 500fpm descent, keeping 20map and enriching slightly to keep peak, keeping an eye on chts to avoid shock cooling. - slow down for approach, close ram air, continue to reduce map as far as 15 and rpm to 2300. The plane seems very happy at 2500. 2350-2400 has more vibration. 2200 and low map (21-22) is perfect for loafing at low alt for fun at 120mph and low consumption. Only restriction the the 3blade is between 1950 and 2150 at low map. I am pretty happy with the above technique. The only thing that I am having doubts about is that effectively I am full throttle from takeoff to top of descent! I ve read all the MAPA articles about continuous rate power etc etc , but maybe I should reduce to 26/2600 rpm at 500ft and then continue climbing on that setting.

silly question... I have been looking at having my 1967 Mooney M20F repainted. My mechanic and the previous owner have both said I should delay it as much as possible. My M20F has the original beige/orange paint scheme , and is definitely tatty in some places , mainly leading edge and wingtips, but is otherwise in OK condition. However I am told the painting process could remove some of the anti corrosion film , and also introduce corrosion with moisture getting trapped between the metal panels where they are riveted. Is there any truth in this or is it merely an old wives tale? I have on the contrary thought that a bare metal respray allows you to spot corrosion quickly and rejuvenate the airframe and protect it with fresh paint. I am however getting accustomed to my 1960s Mooney look! definitely has a classic look...

Had the Aircraft Door Seals ones installed on my M20F a few monhs ago. No complaints from mechanic, so I guess the installation was pretty straightforward. I got the ones that go on the door, not the frame , and the ones for the baggage door. No complaints from the back seat passengers either, used to be quite drafty there. The cabin seems quieter too. All in, a worthwhile purchase and hassle free.

Hi I ve just come across some power setting tables for a 1974 M20F. So far I have found my 1967 tables to be a tad optimistic , I am getting TAS up to 10mph slower, which in the grand scheme of things is not a big deal for a 42 year old airframe, and perfectly acceptable. I have seen much worse differences on other makes! However I am curious as the 1974 ones are bang on the mark. For example, the typical TAS I get running FT/2500 at 10,000 ft is 146kts (168mph).My manual says I should be getting 179. the 1974 one 168... so spot on. Apart from the much talked about dirty wing etc , is there any justification for the difference in figures (they are all 8 to 10 mph slower in the mid 70s tables compared to 1967), or was it just a case of the marketing department in the 1960s getting the upper hand. Also, I have a 3 blade prop, so that might cost me a few knots. My wing step does retract, I believe they don't on the 1970s models. Just curious really. I run at peak EGT/slightly lop with stock injectors, getting consistently 145ktas at 10k ft with 8.5 gal/hr, that's pretty good already! Patrick 1967 M20F Executive OY-DFD

Last week we had TurboExec's wonderful timecapsule with his mint condition M20E, today I found my 1967 M20F 's original invoice in (one of!) the pile of documents I got from OY-DFD's previous owner. OY-DFD is a 1967 M20F imported new into Denmark in 1967 and still under its original registration, but I fly mainly out of the UK, having bought the aircraft 18 mths ago. The June 1967 invoice issued by Mooney's distributor in Europe at the time (Air Aviation SA in Geneva) to the first owner in Copenhagen reads as follows: Mooney Executive standard $21,995 operational group $3,350 Brittain Group III autopilot with altitude hold $3,308 Altimeter conversion, all weather ADF set, set of head rests $50 King KMA-12 marker beacon console Ferry costs $2500 The avionics have been upgraded since, but sadly I seem to have lost altitude hold in the process! I now have an STEC 40. I also have a photo of OY-DFD parked at Gatwick airport in 1969, today one of the largest airports in the UK and certainly not accessible by GA. The cars parked behind it made me wonder whether I d embark on the same trips as I do with the aircraft with these cars! (weekly trips across the channel to France). Any ideas what the options and operational group details were at the time?

Quote: KSMooniac The 3-blade prop is a detraction on a 4-cylinder Mooney IMO So is orange paint...

Hi , my 1967 M20F has been working flawlessly apart from a tendency to fry regulators. I have the original 50amp generator. The previous owner replaced the VR mechanical regulator a couple of years ago, which I then had to have replaced last summer, only to pack up again and replace it by a Zeftronics regulator. This has worked flawlessly but finally packed up too yesterday before a long weekend trip... I am bit fed up having my flying curtailed by a $120 part (luckily I guess it is only 120). Funny enough the only failures I had with my previous aircraft were also regulator related! I am tempted to upgrade the whole thing to a Plane Power alternator kit. A bit more expensive than just fitting yet another $120 part, but at least I get more modern technology (I fly quite a lot of IFR) and perhaps 20amps more (the alternator puts out 70amps but limited to the existing installation, is it just a matter of changing the wiring and the circuit breaker?). Also tired of spending $100s in maintenance costs troubleshooting it for more than the part is worth. Maybe I should carry a spare regulator. On the other hand I m thinking there must be something wrong in the electrics if I damage brand new regulators every 6 months. Also, my Strikefinder is having trouble operating normally, indicating bad grounds or noise.

wow Alun you must have one of the first Aspen installs in Europe then! can't wait to meet up and have a look at it I don't think I can afford to upgrade any of the avionics at the moment but if I do next year or so the Aspen is very high on my list. I was toying with the idea of upgrading the panel configuration to a six pack first (I have a vintage scatter panel) but if I am going to do all this work might as well wait until I upgrade some of the instruments or radios and do it all at once.

I have a vintage panel M20F with a stone age Bendix HSI (not King!) and a GPS155XL with annunciator. Everything works fine but at some point I am thinking of re doing the panel to a six pack and maybe install the Aspen. I was going to install GPSS and an electric AI but a) that's included in the Aspen don't have any more room c) all academic as I can't afford it right now. According to my avionics engineer the Bendix HSI is older than he is , so I am unlikely to have it fixed it it breaks, but on the other hand looks so robust that it might never need work done to it. Brandon, how easy is the integration between the 155XL or 300XL you have and the Aspen? I am surprised you needed an annunciator too as I would have thought that would be included in the Aspen display or is it to drive another CDI? Congrats on a fantastic panel. What kind of specific allowance you need to make for the Aspen when you reposition the pilot side panel?

I use a Mountain High pulse demand system (O2d2) with small canullas, which greatly decreases O2 consumption. It is not a cheap unit, but I hardly ever need to refill. If you have easy and cheap access to )2 refills (such as a good dive shop that sells pure o2) , then you might just be fine with the conserving cannulas. Getting O2 was one of the greatest investments I ve ever made in flying. I don't fly a turbo, but routinely fly at 8k-10k altitudes, and using O2 I feel much less tired at destination. Of course, I have also used it extensively to clear weather, taking my M20F to 18k on its first flight (I bought it in Denmark and flew it back to England). Go for a portable unit, much easier to refill and maintain, let alone talking about installation costs!

Lood, do you need an IFR GPS? If so , I would strongly suggest a 430. Once all the installation cost is factored in, the extra cost is worth it and your resale value will improve substantially too. My Robin had a VFR 250XL GPS Com and it was pretty good, although not as good a moving map as the 196 which I have on my Mooney yoke too. The Mooney has a GPS155XL which is the same unit but IFR (the com version is the 300), and it is pretty good but I wish I had a 430 , as it is now the de facto standard, can use it as an MFD and takes less space in the crowded panel than all the other bits . My only experience of the old king units is the 135 and it is pretty crude compared to the 250XL.I am thinking of upgrading the 196 on my yoke to a 495 to get colour! The 495/496 screen is higher resolution than a 430 With the 430 you get a mini MFD as well, which is useful if you then want to add a strikefinder etc. Also it does make non precision approaches easier, you can overlay it on the 430 even if not in the database and use the OBS mode, whilst the 155XL/300XL only allows you to use a cdi or hsi if it is a genuine GPS approach or NDB with GPS overlay (which sadly does not exist in Europe).

Quote: alun sounds great! are there many other mooney's in the uk. they don't seem as popular in the uk as in us and germany was the other place where i see there are a few based. where do you get your maintainance done? would be nice to find a place that is familiar with mooneys! Hi The UK is PA28 country... although there are a few Mooneys in the UK, but indeed less so than in Germany and in France (have a look at the stats on www.mooney.de). Maybe because a lot of owners like to use farm strips here in the UK to cut costs, which can get a bit tricky with those gear doors. The place I fly to France a lot is grass, but nice and smooth. My M20F is maintained at Aerotech in Coventry and they are familiar with the type and I am happy with them (the previous owner used them so I stuck with them for now). I also know Shipping & Airlines at Biggin very well , who used to be a Mooney service centre at some point, as well as Falcon Flying Services at Biggin. Both are very familiar with Mooneys and very good. In France , Troyes Aviation is an MSC and obviously very knowledgeable, and my former mechanic in La Rochelle also looks after an M20F, but is sadly not JAR 145 so can't touch the Danish mooney.

Hi I am looking to replace the door and baggage door seals on my Mooney M20F Has anyone got any experience with the aircraftdoorseals.com or the avtek kits? thanks Patrick

Hi Alun I fly an M20F , OY-DFD , out of Fairoaks EGTF. I have family in SW France and in Britanny, so my 'usual' weekend run takes me over GSY or JSY... See you around at some point!

very similar to Lodewyk's post! I actually did most of my PPL training in South Africa, 43 Air School near Port Alfred, where the Mooney distributor for SA was based, about 15 years ago. I fly a 1967 Mooney M20F, OY-DFD. I purchased last year in exchange for a Robin DR360, a lovely French built wood and fabric 4 seater, which I owned for 8 years, but was sadly becoming a bit cramped and not quite suitable for regular IFR , for our family holiday and weekend commute from England to France. Before that I had a share in a Comanche, and was looking to buy one but the Mooney owner wanted my Robin in exchange so that suited perfectly! I had done some CPL training in the US on a M20C and also a M20F so I was already quite a Mooniac. I would have loved a more modern Mooney but this deal worked out beautifully and allowed me to upgrade at little cost. My Mooney is pretty much as it left the factory, apart from some newer radios and a 3 blade Hartzell. It has the original sixities orange paint job , the shotgun instrument panel and original interior too... It is however a fantastically reliable aeroplane, and after a year's intensive use I wish I had swapped earlier! It has quite a decent IFR fit , HSI with an STEC autopilot and a IFR 155XL Garmin, and with a regular 145kt+ tas at 10k ft and around 10 us gals, it simply can't be beaten by anything non Mooney as an IFR cross country machine. On my first flight on my own with it from Denmark to the UK, I took it to 18kt feet (I have a portable o2 kit with eds) without any complaints! I've added a Strikefinder and plan to add an EDM 700. I'd love to add tons of mods but as Lodewyk pointed out, with paperwork and high costs in Europe it is quite uneconomical to do so. Long term plan is to have it repainted , interior refurbished (with new panel arrangements), and maybe add some cowling/lasar/swta mod. I would love to add the Lo Presti cowl or the turbonormalising kit, but it doesnt make much sense economically. A powerflow exhaust at some point might be on the cards however! Avionics wise I also have a Garmin 196 on the yoke , which might get upgraded to a 495 soon. Sadly we do not have datalink in Europe. I am based near London in the UK, but am Irish and German, and fly a Danish registered Mooney back and forth to France! Patrick