Hank

If it's not there already, I push Mixture and Prop forward when I deploy Takeoff Flaps on downwind. At shorter fields, that is immediately followed by gear down then lots of cranking on the trim wheel. On true Short Fields, I need to start

If it's not there already, I push Mixture and Prop forward when I deploy Takeoff Flaps on downwind. At shorter fields, that is immediately followed by gear down then lots of cranking on the trim wheel. On true Short Fields, I need to

If it's not there already, I push Mixture and Prop forward when I deploy Takeoff Flaps on downwind. At shorter fields, that is immediately followed by gear down then lots of cranking on the trim wheel. On true Short Fields, I need t

If it's not there already, I push Mixture and Prop forward when I deploy Takeoff Flaps on downwind. At shorter fields, that is immediately followed by gear down then lots of cranking on the trim wheel. On true Short Fields, I

If it's not there already, I push Mixture and Prop forward when I deploy Takeoff Flaps on downwind. At shorter fields, that is immediately followed by gear down then lots of cranking on the trim wheel. On true Short Fields,

If it's not there already, I push Mixture and Prop forward when I deploy Takeoff Flaps on downwind. At shorter fields, that is immediately followed by gear down then lots of cranking on the trim wheel. On true Short

If it's not there already, I push Mixture and Prop forward when I deploy Takeoff Flaps on downwind. At shorter fields, that is immediately followed by gear down then lots of cranking on the trim wheel. On true

If it's not there already, I push Mixture and Prop forward when I deploy Takeoff Flaps on downwind. At shorter fields, that is immediately followed by gear down then lots of cranking on the trim wheel. On treu

If it's not there already, I push Mixture and Prop forward when I deploy Takeoff Flaps on downwind. At shorter fields, that is immediately followed by gear down then lots of cranking on the trim wheel. On

If it's not there already, I push Mixture and Prop forward when I deploy Takeoff Flaps on downwind. At shorter fields, that is immediately followed by gear down then lots of cranking on the trim wheel.

I like the looks! It will pair up nicely with my new Whelen LED belly strobe. How good is the light on the runway coming down final? I'm also curious about how much paperwork you had to do for the install. So far, my last GE bulb is still holding out, 2½ years after install. Unless I just cursed it . . . But it will eventually need replacing. Were any wiring changes needed, or is it a simple plug-in replacement???

Quote: Shadrach L/D ratio determines glide distance. Weight does not decrease glide distance. Best glide speed goes up with weight, however the distance that can be traveled does not. Minimum sink rate does increase with weight. So the net effect is, if you're at best glide speed for your weight, you will go just as far at MGW as you will at 300lbs under gross. It will just take longer to travel the distance at the lighter weight. http://books.google.com/books?id=V3SZXFWuCIgC&lpg=SA3-PA17&ots=HlLIHgjHmB&dq=Best%20Glide%20Speed%20Airplane%20flying%20handbook&pg=SA3-PA16#v=onepage&q&f=false

Quote: edgargravel Hank: I know the books say this, but it is not intuitively obvious to this old engineer why a windmilling prop, that should be providing less drag, results in a better glide ratio than a stopped prop, that should be providing more drag and resulting in a poorer glide ratio. Anyone have any ideas?

It has also been reported that in addition to loss of more altitude while slowing enough to stop the propellor, lowering the nose to Best Glide will start the prop windmilling again. Unless there are internal mechanical problems with the engine, expect the prop to windmill. If you run out of oil and it seizes, then you get to glide further. Pulling the prop all the way back will reduce windmilling drag and put you somewhere between 10.3 and 12.7:1. At any rate, 10,300 feet is 1.95 miles, or 1.7 nm per 1000' above ground at Best Glide speed, clean, and gross weight. Vary from Best Glide, not be perfectly clean, you'll go down faster. Under gross, you'll glide a little further. The key seems to be pitching for Best Glide right away.

I'm sure it varies by model, and will also vary by weight. My Owner's Manual says at gross, clean, it's 12.7:1 with the prop stopped, or 10.3:1 windmilling.

I was taught when landing that flaps generate more drag than lift once you pass 1/3 to 1/2 deflection . . . thus full flaps allow a steeper descent. When I am high, I increase flap angle; the higher I am, the more flaps I put in. It's part of the benefit of fully-variable flaps vs. fixed detents only.

Sounds like great fun! I couldn't make the date last year [i was at a wedding instead], and hope to make it this year. When is it???? I really want to see the Thunderbirds, I grew up watching the Blue Angels. Duh, just saw the date in the poll at the top. Late June should be doable! Assuming you'll take a vintage plane with a vintage paint job. It's in good condition, just no swirly stripes or anything.

Flaps are simply another tool to reach my desired point on the runway. Forces on the landing gear are much greater from impact [vertical speed] than by touching down a few mph faster. Be smooth and you will do little to them even if landing heavy with zero flaps and a load of ice [not recommended!]. I don't try to touch the brakes until about 40 mph, usually just after raising flaps, and I brake lightly. Maybe that's because we only have one turnoff ~1000' from the approach end of 26; the rare occasions I land on 8, I sometimes make the turn with little braking needed. My Owner's Manual says to set flaps as desired to reach the runway [see my post on the first page for the full quote], so that's what I do. With trees at both ends, I need to keep a little power on anyway until I'm clear, then I go to Idle and float down gently. [see photos below.] I often chirp the tires on by the third stripe; going full flaps in calm or light winds may shorten this up by one whole stripe, but in strong winds [especially crosswinds] full flaps are not desirable. So all of my landings are the same except for my feet--I wiggle them for alignment, roll the yoke for drift, tweak the flaps and throttle if needed for angle, and glide toward the wide black stripe. More wind means more footwork, but hands, throttle and flaps are the same. Makes for lower stress in less-than-favorable wind conditions as long as it's not blowing from behind me [nothing makes a tailwind landing nice]. I have a video landing on 26 but can't post it here; my wife made it, and didn't tell me until afterwards, I thought she was just taking pictures. 22 MB, so I can't email it, either. Any ideas? Strong winds may need a tad more throttle if I forget to turn base early; lately calm winds have been leaving me high because I'm used to a headwind on final, so I add more flaps and reduce throttle early. Beyond the trees when landing on 26 is a nice, deep cut for a 4-lane divided highway; the vines growing on the bank are visible in the photo--extra incentive to not get low! Besides, it's hard crawling under the plane to dig leaves out of the gear doors. T&G: roll all wheels; glance at & raise flaps; [it is now a normal takeoff, a little further down the runway] throttle forward; rotate at 70; positive rate, gear up; pitch for desired climbing speed [lots of forward yoke]; clear obstacles, if any; start spinning trim. I do NOT do T&G at home, it's too short even without the trees. I like 5000' minimum. Did many with my CFII; did some with the DPE on my Instrument Checkride. "Normal" takeoffs have the trim pre-set; T&Gs just require extra compensation with the yoke until I'm climbing well, then I drop my hand from throttle to trim wheel. Haven't had a CFI pull the throttle on me at that point yet.

The gear and flap switches are not easily confused, being a foot or so apart. Gear is in front of my at the top of the panel, and is a big, round white lever; flaps is a small metal toggle switch down by the mixture knob. I typically land with Takeoff flaps, and often the trim is right where I put it for takeoff. On a T&G, I don't mess with the trim until I'm back in the air. Wheels rolling, nose down, directional control good--quick glance to find flap switch, hold til noise indicates Full Up, push throttle forward and rotate at 70. Use yoke to establish climb [lots of forward pressure here], clear any obstacles then drop hand to trim wheel and turn as required. I've never thought to count the turns other than on Emergency Gear Extension [52 cranks on the little lever].

A quick fix is to spend ~$20 with Aircraft Spruce for an ashlight. This has four red LEDs and replaces the ashtray to your left. It provides enough light to write on my kneeboard even with everything else shut off.

Jimmy-- I have also not figured out how to do that. Instead, I file two flight plans, A --> fuel, then fuel --> B. Be sure to update your weather briefing for the second leg to make sure there are no significant changes happening.

Based on my experiences, there are two things to check after mags & Shower of Sparks: 1) Spark plug gaps. When were your plugs last cleaned and gapped? I just changed from every annual to every oil change due to difficult starts just before annual, a year after changing the [inexpensive] capacitor. 2) What works for me when she is stubborn: pull mixture about halfway back. While cranking, vigorously pump the throttle from idle to full and back. She may cough and spit, but keep cranking and pumping until she fires good, then let go of the key and QUICKLY advance mixture and pull throttle back. Good luck with yours!

Russ-- Just below [this] text box it says "Image Attachments". Hit the "Browse" button, and select your photo; you may have to hit "Open" on the file list, I don't remember. When it comes back to this screen again, hit the "Attach" button and wait a minute while it does its thing. Don't write anything, or you will lose it. Oh, yeah--you have to hit either "Reply" or "Quote" as it won't work on "Quick Reply."

I don't take off the lower cowl at annual, and I'm not used to seeing it off then. It is relatively easy to disconnect behind the spinner and lower gently to the ground. Like I said, oil change coming this weekend, whenever I can find the time, and I'll look around then. It will be nice to relax a minute before hurting my knuckles safety-wiring the new filter in place.

Dave-- I'm not sure I've ever REMOVED the bottom cowl. I have taken off the top and both sides and LOWERED the bottom cowl a few times, but off hand I don't remember anything special. I'll be changing my oil this weekend and will look at [but not remove :-) ] the lower cowl attachment then. Your F may be a little more involved than my C, though, what with your more complicated engine and all.