bigmo

Maybe check wherever Cessna owners hang out; literally every Cessna single is approved and some for quite some time. I have a couple of hours behind one in a 182. Nothing was remarkable (and I owned a Garmin equipped a/c at the time). Nothing remarkable is good IMO. I just set IAS for climb, enroute was uneventful, and let the navigator manage my approach. I can't recall if I flew a hold, but the learning curve was nonexistent.

Penn owner here. When I did the pre buy on my F, the first comment from the mechanic was "This engine is absolutely beautiful." Not sure what their overhaul costs are now (PO paid about $21K, but it's been 10 years). Fingers crossed I have LOTS of trouble free hours ahead of me. Good luck and looking forward to spring!

@Z W Yes indeed! I actually have a set coming from Amazon today. Do you use the collars every time, or just when you know the plane will be on the jacks for an extended period? Im going to put them each under a 1000 pound load and see if I get any loss after 24 hours.

I've seen a few jack threads here and thought - I can do that! I wasn't super impressed with commercial options under $1K. It seems like one has to spend $1400+ to get something of decent quality. I spent a few nights drawing things out, sourced out my steel and spent a bunch of time looking at commercial designs to see what I liked. I started with a quality jack (Omega 4-ton) and then built the base and supports around that. Splurged a bit on good hardware and overengineered the steel a bit. I grew up on a farm, so I can do some crude welding, but paid my neighbor in beer to strengthen a few areas I could not get too well with my stick welder. I gave up trying to engineer a top solution to interface with my jack points, and decided to go with proper jack toppers (Bogert Aviation) so I never to have worry about slipping off the jack point. I could have cleaned up my welds and slag a bit more, but was frankly tired of drilling holes in cold rolled steel and just taped and painted it and called it done. I did have a booboo that turned out to be a cool feature. My magnet jig was not set to 90 degrees and I got one leg off by 3 degrees on both sets. I caught it early enough to solve my problem and add a leg adjuster on each jack (on one leg). It's a nice way to really stabilize the jack and not depend on an absolutely flat hangar floor. I have a cherry picker for the front, so gear and wheel maintenance from now on will be a non-event. $360 in materials and two cases of High Life...so $400 all-in.

For once. I win.

That’s super kind of you @DC_Brasil. I think I have one sourced, but will follow up if it falls through. Thanks!

In my previous a/c, I had the same setup (twin G3X, GFC500 and had a 175 for the navigator). I actually taught my wife how to land the plane in case of some freak emergency. An hour of buttonology, and then just showing her what to watch for on power and airspeed was all it took. I was pretty convinced if she had to, she could load an approach, let the AP fly it fully to the ground and walk away from the a/c. A little morbid to think of, but fully possible with the technology. With my Mooney, I've stepped back in time to a GNS480, and STEC-30 and a six pack - I don't see her getting this sucker on the ground!

Good info thanks. Might gamble a bit on a used one and worst case, I'll have a cool paper weight.

I get that the 8130 is one of many tools. But the installing A&P has to be sure that the equipment is functional. How would he do that with any lineage or paperwork? I DID find a affordable, clean VSI pulled "working perfectly" from a panel doing an upgrade. It's cheaper than overhaul, marginally cheaper than repair. I guess with mine, I at least know it works and I'll deal with the inconvenience of mailing it two ways.

To be legal, however, it needs to be yellow tagged by the removing m Chan if or have an 8130…correct? My A&P was pretty certain that was the case. I’m seeing literally 0 used VSI that are yellow tagged (or if they are, they are priced the same as a new instrument).

Latest price on a new TSO VSI I could find was $465. I did look into that.

I recognize that. A few were, a few were not, but just to repair it, they don't need to be a repair station (no 8130 issued). All I need is the glass cleaned properly. All good though, Rudy's seems just like the shop I am used to with Naylor's - sans the wait.

Thanks @AndreiC. Called and they called right back with an affordable repair option. Going to have my A&P mail it off while it's offline.

I've got a single VSI that has a hazy glass. Function is a-ok, it's just aesthetics. Normally, I'd just postpone it, but my a/c will be offline for two weeks getting a bunch of routine maintenance done, as well as some panel work. I'd really like to have that VSI repaired during the process. I've only used Naylor's for years - love those guys and their prices have been great. They were my go-to, but I called and he said they're super backed up and I realistically am looking at a 4-5 week turn. So, looking for a Naylor's-like service. Send in instrument, they do a quick repair or overhaul, they send it out in 3-4 days. That kind of place. I called the 6 guys local to me listed as "avionics shops" and all replied they don't do work like that lol. They all cater to the "money is no object" PJ crowd...

Thanks guys - and @Ragsf15e I'm jazzed to try that tonight. I suspect that step of a second double button push may be what I have been missing. Seems odd that there are so many "official" instructions on such a simple UI. I've tried my factory POH (no luck), the instructions from EDM (no luck), and a couple of other online manuals I've found.

I have an older (maybe the oldest??? EDM930) - I know mine was installed when the unit first came out (there's some back and forth email printoffs from JPI with the then-owner). My previous owner was a military pilot and had them set the fuel unit up in pounds. Which I then get to do math every time I fly. I'd like to change the fuel units to gallons (I know it's possible) and my OAT to C (now in F). I've followed the manual - did not work. I called JPI and they sent me some email instructions - also didn't work. This is what they sent me: POWER UP THE UNIT. PRESS AND HOLD THE BUTTONS “STEP & LF”, UNTIL YOU SEE THE WORD “PROGRAM”, THEN YOU TAKE YOUR FINGERS OFF FROM THOSE 2 BUTTONS. KEEP TAPPING ON “NEXT” UNTIL YOU SEE “END?”. TAP THE BUTTON NAMED “FACTORY”, THEN YOU ARE IN THE FACTORY MODE NOW. TAP ON NEXT….UNTIL YOU SEE “FUEL UNITS: GAL”. TAP ON “EDIT”. TAP ON CHANGE UNTIL YOU SEE THE “UNITS” YOU WANT: GAL, KGS, LTR, LBS. TAP ON SAVE. TAP ON CLEAR…THEN THE UNIT WILL RESTART. GO BACK INTO FACTORY MODE AGAIN. TAP ON NEXT UNTIL YOU SEE “MAIN TANK SIZE = (A VALUE IN HERE). (TAP ON “PLUS” OR “MINUS” TO ENTER THE CORRECT VALUE). TAP ON SAVE….AND YOU WILL SEE “AUX TANK SIZE = (A VALUE IN HERE). (TAP ON “PLUS” OR “MINUS” TO ENTER THE CORRECT VALUE). TAP ON SAVE. TAP ON EXIT….THE UNIT WILL SAVE AND RESTART. NOW, CHECK YOUR FUEL TABLES TO SEE IF EVERYTHING IS CONVERTED CORRECTLY INTO LITER. I never get to 4 as I do not see factory. Any suggestions? I am generally very tech savvy and can figure my way through any UI - but can't seem to get into the factory setting mode.

Sent you a PM.

That sounds crazy…but 100% right. I have two strikes that burn considerably less oil lol. My burn rate is definitely not linear until I’m below 6 on the dipstick. At that point, I think I’m less than a quart per 8-10 hours. It’s slow for sure. Above 6 on the stick is probably one quart per 5-6. Above 7 is a quart an hour and then 3 hours cleaning the belly on my creeper. Lesson learned.

Doug, my youngest is a senior at Florida Southern and we fly down fairly often. I have an F, but has virtually all the mods available…so a DIY J. If timing works, I’d be glad to let you take left seat and give you a good feel. I’ll check with my wife when the next trip is.

Does the Dynon a/c have the new AP installed? I don't pay attention to the latest daily ongoing, but it's approved now correct? I have a decent amount of hours behind both and frankly dont really prefer either once I have my buttonology down and my flows are easy to recall. My last a/c had all Garmin (twin G3X) and one nice thing is the massive community of users. Any oddity that came up yielded a very quick solution. All things being equal, I'd take the "ready to fly" plane over an anticipated project. That's just me though, I hate down time and want my plane when I want my plane. FWIW, I only have a few flights behind the IFD-540 and loved it. My current navigator is a "pre-Garmin - Garmin" (GNS-480), so my brain is open to other ways to navigate. It's much easier for Garmin pilots to hop in a operate any modern Garmin navigator (not mine lol) - whereas they'll struggle a bit with anything different. But you'll pick it up fast and learn to be comfortable. Both sound like great options. But before you buy the upgrade plane - have realistic conversations with installers...and then add 50-100% onto that timeline.

You guys have given me the curiosity to at least pull out the Pulselite manual and see if I have any other modes. I think mine is on 45 pulses per minute (and that might be all I get with one light). I'll have a few folks compare from a distance and see what they think. My main tester (my wife) is closed for light testing business after I tested my new Aerolite in the garage powered by my motorcycle's battery. She was probably 75 ft away and said she couldn't see right for 10 mins. I was pleased to know it was REALLY bright....and a wee bit concerned I damaged her vision.

I never think of the dipstick as a way to check what’s in the motor - it’s just a gauge I can’t read from the cockpit. For my plane, anything over 7 I wind up wearing the first flight. At 7 I’m good. I wait until I hit 6, then add a full quart. If I go below 6 (and I won’t), long climbs (SL to 8-9k) bring my oil temp up to a number I don’t like. Im not 100% sure I understand this whole thread. It’s not something I’ve ever really thought of.

It works fine with my LED, but I have a single light (no wing lights). I do believe the Pulselite is very effective with a multiple light setup, but with a single light, my personal observation is that the steady on of the VERY bright LED is actually more noticeable. I actually turned it on today in the hangar, walked about 1/4 mile away and observed both. The steady on was impossible to miss…it’s like a freaking UFO light. Leaving it be is fine…at least it’s not a distraction to me. I have to think the control module is over a pound, so I’ll wait until I do something that triggers a new W&B I guess.

I probably need to read into the why a bit more, but I find it odd that the FAA requires Special Training on certain a/c, but excludes a Type Rating - ie the Mitsubishi MU-2. I guess it’s the why/logic behind that decision I don’t understand. Not why the training…but why not just require a TR.

I’ve got a little avionics work happening in a week. I’m going to pull the old fuel flow (obsolete when the EDM930 went in). It’s a personal thing but the INOP label makes me crazy. it got me thinking. A previous owner spent a ton of $ and installed a Pulslite system which I’ve yet to use - and now with an LES landing light…never will. That Pulslite is on a 20 amp breaker. I can ignore it as it’s just a switch…but got me thinking a) am I weird about not wanting to look at INOP in my scan and b) should I remove equipment that is rendered valueless by technology?