bigmo

So, after making a connection with the uAvionics rep at SNF, decided to go with the AV-30C as a little update to my F (serving as an AI only). With the newly certified magentometer, this will provide a one instrument focus for my dated shotgun panel. I was unaware that the magnetometer could be added to to AI, so it buys me a lot of what I wanted now. I may (or may not) add the HSI as soon as their STC is approved (realistically March/April). My current DG holds a stellar heading, and the AP w/ GPSS flies a great approach. AllAvionics had the best price at $2500 all-in for the unit, the magnetometer, and the temp probe. Order to arrival in 3 days. I had grand plans for a full left side panel update, but most of it was aesthetics more than functionality. I;m settling for a new digi AI and NuLites on all my instruments (I do fly at night a lot). Install scheduled for early November, so I'll follow up with a pirep. I will say the uAvionics guys have been easy to get ahold of, answer questions, and speak transparently about the work they've done updating & upgrading the certified AV-30. I do have some time behind them and could not ask for more (especially at this price point).

ACEDAYS iPad Cooler,Magnetic Tablet Cooler for ipad/surface pro/Samsung Tab https://www.amazon.com/ACEDAYS-Compatible-Universal-Temperature-Streaming/dp/B0C7PC3155

I hope my plan doesn’t come off as disrespectful in any way / I need my plane for work, so this seemed a prudent way to eliminate what seems to be a pretty common problem. The SOS is 54 years old…so I feel it’s served its purpose. The PIREPs (here) on SlickStart seem overwhelming positive. I didn’t want to drop MSRP for it, but 1/2 MSRP made sense. I’m gambling a little that my SOS has issues. But not gambling that’ll eventually have issues (even if it doesn’t right now).

Has anyone experimented with one of these? You have to mount an adhesive pad to the device (not a problem for me) and then the cooler attaches to the magnet. It takes up 4", so I'd need to switch mounts for the free space. The CPU of the Mini is way over to the side, but it seems like attaching it anywhere to the case works. Would be easy to power this full time. Reviews seem genuinely positive.

Do you mind checking your invoice and seeing total material please? I'm about to undergo the same process. Doing the four seats, two headrests (might add two more), and a few trim pieces. I have a line on very affordable leather (was surplus from a PJ refurbisher that went out of business). I think hides are approx 50 sq ft each. Most of my cow expertise comes from eating them, so that's a guess on my part.

I know my policy specifically excludes SFPs. Definitely worth reading the policy. OP, you're kind of in the best shape to get an SFP if you need one. The lack of local mechanics is about as solid of a case you can make. If you go this route, you will need an A&P (not an IA) to state that the aircraft is airworthy for the flight. It might be hard finding a random A&P to sign off on that as they're putting their reputation and livelihood on the line. This process should be easy, but FSDO run their little kingdoms like a king...so... By far, as mentioned, find a local-ish Mooney pilot to fly it for you before expiring. I have to think there are quite a few MS pilots near you and the ground logistics should be easy. I'd be glad to do it if I were closer.

So, I decided to use the excuse to add some parts. I find a great deal on a NOS SlickStart. To the door for $700 seemed a no brainer. I’d spend that much troubleshooting… I also got new plugs. The plane is going in for some routine maintenance in two weeks and at least I’ll reset things to a bit of a known condition. My plugs are 500 hours & 19 years old…so that felt prudent. The SkickStart is a way to just avoid troubleshooting a SOS that is bad, is going bad, or will go bad. Im optimistic I’ll be a Jedi hot starter in a few weeks.

Great! I didn't realize they were so thin they went behind the panel. This will be a no brainer then.

I might throttle back my panel upgrade (it's mostly a cosmetic thing for me vs functionality). One thing I NEED to improve is my panel lighting. The stock lighting is terrible, borderline unsafe. My plan in a year or so is to have a new panel cut and go digital. For now, to save a few bucks, I'm going to add just an AV-30C as my AI (so that's covered as far as lighting), and then use Nulite rings on my 5 other critical instruments. My question, will the Nulites fit under the plastic instrument cover? I have the 1970 shotgun layout if that matters. They look pretty darn thin, but am open to other suggestions. I'm thinking I could reuse those in a couple of years when I rework the panel. PS - open to suggestions if anyone has some creative ideas that offer good bang for the buck.

I’ve not moved to a yoke mount as my USB power is on the copilot side. I had a Pro, but when I bought the Mooney it was just too big no matter how I tried to use it. I have my Mini 5 panel mounted on the upper right side above my breakers. I run it landscape as 90% of my use is for traffic & weather (from my Sentry Mini). I have Jepp plates on my Garmin MFD, but I’ll pinch in and check them on the iPad too just to check mins & missed approach procedures. I got the cell version so I don’t lose GPS if my Sentry flakes out or I’m using it in someone else’s aircraft. The Mini are a niche market - probably 3-5 year olds and Mooney owners lol. FWIW, I hate writing notes on it. I have CRAFT. papers printed on 1/2 a letter paper and use a pen on a small clipboard. I found my e-notes too sloppy and I also like to write down freq changes as I’m enroute. It’s helped a few times when there’s ground issues to have the last freq in order handy. I’ll upgrade when mine dies…but I’ve been getting LOTS of years out of Apple stuff lately. I think my phone and iPad are circa 2019 and both perform perfectly. I also don’t have any heat or sun issues, so I don’t want to jinx that either.

Yeah, I’m going to have him check the wiring for sure. It seems like more a/c have it wired to have the SOS on before the push, but I did see the key wiring (and found a few threads here) where it’s correct to have it come on in the push. Seems odd Mooney tried a couple different approaches.

I agree 15-60 seems to be my black hole too. All great info folks. I have linked up with a local A&P that owns a Mooney and we're going to check out the SOS and the key switch to make sure I don't have an ignition issue. I found an article by Don Maxwell that spoke of a symptom where releasing the key rapidly while spinning will yield a start - and I've noticed that is indeed when my does. Could be that the SOS is not getting the right activation from the key or the SOS has issues. I believe mine does not activate with just key on (it comes on with key on and push). Seems BK has a couple of different key designs that Mooney used). So, we'll check all the possible culprits. Plugs, key switch, SOS...and see if there's something going on there.

I got deeper in the manual (and a beer) and it appears that the GPS signal fed to the AI shows some basic text only info from the GPS (ground speed, track, distance, etc.). So, not a big add for my equipment. But a nice feature if one wants that info at the ready (and not glancing down to the navigator).

Not intending to hijack the thread - but what functionality does the GPS signal to the AI add? Is that for the "backup DG" or perhaps ground speed? Looking through the install manual now and it just says optional. I do see a matrix on page 18 of the install manual, but it's not clear what that GPS signal enables.

I'm doing sort of the final details with a avionics installer that's taking on some side work. For me, I'm going with a single AV-30C (with temp sensor). It does everything I want/need. My a/c is really well equipped, but I want to clean up the six pack and the left side of my panel. I do agree the AV-30 got a bit of a bad rep when it first came out, but they appear to have them sussed out now and I have zero complaints with a few hours behind one. When flush mounted, they look outstanding. A few things I've learned in this process. Shops are backed up, and are not super keen to do small jobs. By small, I mean less than $50K. Most will just say that they're backed up for 12-18 months or respond with a crazy $ amount. A few years ago, you could generally assume about a 1:1 parity for avionics equipment cost and installation. Those days appear to be gone. A few years ago, you could get a pair of G5s installed for about $8-9K. The quotes I got for just those two were a low of $15K and a high of $22K (yes, $16K in labor). I decided to scope down my project since my DG/bug works well with my GNS and GPSS. So with a single AI (the AV30), a new left panel cut, rearranging my six pack a bit, and some new post lighting - all in for $5K cash. I can live with that and it gives me a nice clean and functional look. As soon as you get into a new digital HSI, and engine monitor...prepare for sticker shock. Just to add some basics, you'll be shocked how quickly you hit the $25K, $30K or even $40K mark. I'm fortunate that I have a good engine monitor, WAAS GPS, and an AP that works great. So my work is sort of polishing vs painting - if that makes sense.

That's a nice plane for $95K. I expect they'll find a buyer at that price. Dare I say it's slightly under market (I would have guessed $100-105K).

Not impossible for you to find a plane for under $60K, but just don't see you finding one with a low time motor. $60K usually = 1700+ on the motor. $80K will open up some real opportunities. The market is starting to relax a bit, but not sure you'll find what you're looking for without a little give. I'm literally captain optimism...but the market is tough.

One of my kids lives in Albuquerque, so similar DA concerns and you'll be fine unless you're going to frequently need to get up high. I scout out Victor and Tango routes that keep me below 12K if possible. However, on a recent flight up in Washington, I got stepped up to 13K and then 14K and they left me there for a while. The climb from 10K wasn't setting any records, but it'll get there and hold it without concerns. I personally consternated over turbo or not, and decided not. My previous a/c was turbocharged and it was lovely...but came with a lot of extra maintenance. Sort of like dating the captain of the cheerleading squad - obvious benefits but with guaranteed extra drama. With your kids being so small, you will be fine weight wise. The nice thing about an F (what I own) is the long fuel range. You'll obviously be limited by wife/kid bladder range, but it's nice to not have to gas every 3 hours. The biggest limiting factor IMO is the price range. I think you'll be hard pressed to find a J in that price range. I found some J's in the $120-130K range, but they needed a LOT of avionics. I needed a good autopilot w/ altitude hold, a WAAS navigator, low or mid time motor, and something that my wife wasn't afraid to get in. The F matched all of my needs. As for performance, I plan for 145 knots and cruise at 8K-11K depending on winds. For ease, I plan at 10gph and generally beat that. We can reach the kid in Florida or the kid in New Mexico without stopping - but I split it in half to pee and top off. These are stellar a/c for 300-800 nm IMO. Less than that, I drive. More, I generally fly commercial unless it's some obscure location and demands a long car ride after landing. As mentioned above, I'd watch for a Turbo Lance. But, as already stated, I think anything that's remotely turn-key will be north of $150K.

I know of an experienced Mooney mechanic in STL and he personally owns a J. He’s busy, but might be down to travel. If interested I can connect you.

On topic / I’m sussing out jack options too. My F has the LASAR ‘cone’ jack points (I assume that’s the right term). I’ve found jack tios that have a standard a/c ‘cup’ receiver (the kind of ball female receiver) but I’ve not found any that mate with the cone. i could drill the top of the jack with a step bit and create a nice cone receiver, but surely there’s a jack top made for these cones right?

That’s a great baseline for pricing. Adjusted for inflation, it should be around $14k now. $28k honestly makes no sense…besides the fact that many aircraft owners have a ‘cost does not matter’ approach to ownership.

I do sincerely appreciate everyone's feedback. But the "don't touch anything" method did not work for me. It's why I'm gathering as much info as I can so I can see what works for my plane. @N204TA process is close to what my source (and this guy DOES know his stuff) said to try. I do find it interesting that MS tends to really follow Mooney factory guidance on just about everything BUT starting. The Mooney cold and hot starting procedures are literally never recommended. About the only logic I find in the POH is their hot start procedure will surely flood it, so it's ALMOST like they want you to just flood it and move to flooded start. I will have the mag timing checked and can pull and check plugs, but the plane is 20 hours out of annual and has < 100 hours on the mags. Starter & battery both good.

Interesting. No pump right? And how long do you leave the mixture at full rich? This will make my "trial list".

Yes, that's the gear clicker I was referencing. My F takes 4 secs for the fuel pressure to stabilize at 25psi. I was giving it 4 secs past pressure built, but will reduce that to 2 and even 1 and try those options. That said, my cold starts are 1-4 blade events.

Thanks all for the great feedback. Looks like lots of ways to skin cats here. I think my goal over the next couple of weeks is to fly daily for an hour, come back to the hangar, pause for 10 mins simulating my fueling, and then try one each day a "new technique" - and find one that seems that the aircraft likes best. I called a local mechanic that's a local Mooney expert. He explained to me that when you shut down, the engine is flooded - period. He spent some time talking about the way the FI meters fuel (similar to @PT20J described). His advice was mixture cutoff, full throttle, crank and don't be anxious to cram the mixture in. I'll give that a whirl first. If that's unsuccessful, my next experiment will be @1964-M20E method - I have a hunch my a/c might like this approach. I'll keep working through techniques until I find a winner (in a stress free environment).