dkkim73

Thank you! Though not initially intuitive, that makes sense. Appreciate the tip.

@exM20K it sounded like you needed to for the switch/pot function. How did you like the unit when it came back? Did it feel notably newer? Would you ever do it just for sticky/futzy switches and knobs?

I have a G1000 in a 2009 plane, and the buttons sometimes stick in subtle ways. E.g. the flip-flop will bounce you back to the original frequency. 2.5amu seems like a lot to green it up as long as everything works. I'd sometimes wondered about using contact cleaner, but it's a pretty important panel, and you break it you fix it... But I have wondered if the actual construction allows a more limited clean-up. @LANCECASPER I take it those knobs are serviceable from the front? (e.g. cracked or lost, just press-fit a new one on?) Overall I guess I should be happy that things still work pretty well (and screens pretty readable) after 15 yrs.

Interesting PIREP. I had the opposite experience, I called first and had a short timeline. They were very acommodating. It is a mom-and-pop shop, from what I can tell, so that might explain the variability. I did not know about the oil door option. That said, I did get the sense that they would customize if you asked. I just didn't know enough at that point to know what to ask for... ETA: I had got the impression that Bruce's was the higher-pricepoint choice, and it was for what I priced out. I do have a set of their cowl plugs which are great. Also a pitot cover coming apart but it's probably really old, so I just need to get un-lazy and sew it.

Mac's custom covers are very affordable. I use mine only intermittently but it seems solid. Straps with backpacking-style buckles. You could probably tie the loose ends as a backup if needed. Good service and quick turn-time.

Flying out of Osan in an aero club 152 in the 1980s, we once had to do 360s for a U2 inbound. My instructor put me (kid) up to asking the controller to tell us what type aircraft it was... Controller paused, minimally annoyed, "traffic no factor". Saw a few high speed Eagle scrambles to cover the DMZ (banked taxiway, rotating midfield , unrestricted climb) flying out of there... interesting fly on the wall viewpoint. I'm a C152, that's pretty close to the actual weight.

Same here. I'll sometimes take an up-and-out if it's not too high. I think seeing things happen is worth a lot. Got decent bit of ice in returns in summer, was an eye opener though manageable. Talking to young line guys here their school won't let them fly ice and surprisingly little actual. Slowly expanding envelope of ops...

Same here a few months ago. Completely filling the space with RTV is the key. I took the additional advice of a piece of 3M clear repair tape over the top. Good insurance.

Makes sense. I usually run it a minute or two on every flight in summer. Probably should be more deliberate. The dilutional approach makes sense. I'm down there now just below 2. Though I do have some suspicions about the sender. Has anyone tried siphoning from above via the fill hose (snake a line in)? I'm not motivated enough to drop the belly panel and find a way to drain it. Maybe if I had jacks... Probably over thinking this

Ah, the old forced night landing trick... Turn it off if you don't like what you see.

On a recent flight, first in a while to see ice, I ran TKS and saw some patchy areas. So, reading all the threads,I ran the system on the ground (windshield pumps first to prime), them high, then low. Wiped all the leading edges with a soaked rag multiple times. The hardest to assess is the vertical stab, since it's oriented along gravity and the fluid runs down... Then into the empennage boot, so you can't even gauge the drips! Nonetheless, the tail does seem to have a lot of flow as Dan pointed out. Reading also that fluid gets old, I am intentionally running the tank down low. How low do you guys go? If it safe to run the pumps out? (I think the fluid provides some lubrication)

Did you use cyanoacrylate (super glue) or something more specific? Any vacuum technique or just capillary action? David

That is super helpful, thanks Ray! Is the removal/replacement as simple as it looks? I'll check the MM for torque on the screws but maybe it's just feel.

Did you use the rotary pads the same way as with car or other applications? Circular polishing and moving it around? I'm thinking of the admonition to polish linearly when doing things by hand like windshields. I got the Novus kit and was going to try doing the ice light (with masking) but thinking the landing light as well (or instead).

FWIW it is not hard to figure out what your GAMI spread is. See a very thorough method here: https://www.savvyaviation.com/wp-content/uploads/savvy_pdf/Savvy-Flight-Test-Profile-Expanded.pdf

In theory you will get more oxygen so should be able to add fuel and get more power, thus speed. Might even be about to do it LOP. The practical answer would come from someone who's done this exact thing... Did the vendor give you any claims or reference points?

I have wondered about that. Some have opined that the tank sizing is to keep you from being too aggressive or cavalier, but it would not seem to be a bad thing to have an emergency backup. The filler system is open-topped and gravity fed, so I wouldn't imagine it would cause any issue if you added a way to drip fluid into it.

I used to want to put a Mazda RX engine in an RV-7/8 or EZ variant. There is a guy, Tracy something or other, who did this and wrote a book ; interesting read (helpful to speak with, too). Never got around to experimental building but I liked the power to weight. I imagine the failure modes would be less catastrophic than reciprocating. Only had an MX-5 but always like the ease of working on it and the inexpensive documentation.

Yes! I used to plan very carefully near large bodies of water... Or cold water. Glide range of land at all times. The altitude is a great thing and good peace of mind. Including with high terrain. The turbo and FIKI combination offers a lot of buffer...

Maybe obvious, but if you're a bit behind the curve, you can also flip it to Max. Seems to fill out much quicker to "jump start" things. I've overall been amazed by how well it works. I have briefly been in accumulation that might be "moderate" rates based on the above, and it seemed to keep up. A few brief encounters incl. with some lighter returns definitely got my attention (and a course change). But my experience base is limited so I defer to the others here... Just like other things, it's nice to experiment first by dipping your toe in. E.g. less ice-prone conditions and more outs. Some mentioned the tail. A FIKI bird should have panels on those leading edges. D

It's funny (I think I mean odd) that I flew a cross-country (headwind) yesterday, ROP, and noticed my CO detector above 0 for the first time ever in cruise (around 10, though the memory showed up to 30, maybe from a prior taxi with the door open). I experimented with vent settings and got it to go down again. Then I noticed it was back up near the end of the flight. I was running the cabin heater a lot, so the cross-over heat transfer shroud naturally came to mind. It's in to have another thing checked right now, asked them to look at exhaust system and potential leaks. Recently had cylinders replaced (3 and 4) and I think they dropped the exhaust in place rather than removing the bands. I don't know the exact details, but hopefully no torquing-related cracks... I seem to recall hearing that setting that up and relieving the stress can be tricky. Will report back if I find anything enlightening. D

Hello all, I recently bought a Brightline B7 bag (from Gallagher Aviation, @OSUAV8TER, great selection of various things and communication). I'm moving stuff over from my big prior bag, trying to pare down what I take with (I still carry some charts), and just wondering if anyone had any slick tips on configuration. The bag is insanely versatile, so although I have already come up with some placements I'm sure there are ways to optimize. I usually fly solo for work, so I'm thinking it will slip nicely over the RH seat with the strap keeping it from falling forward. Facing the 3 pouches (9 compartments, or is it 27, or 81? ;)) forward. Any advice appreciated, David

My father in law is in that range, was no problem even though I gave him my original headset with a battery pack on top.

BTW I'm sure I speak for a lot of people here in saying 1. Glad you're ok! and 2. Good situational awareness!

Impressed. I don't have the guts to try inverted in a Mooney.