dkkim73

Imagine looking over in a descent and going "now why aren't they going up? Oh yeah the tape...."

Let us know how it goes. What did Precise Flight charge? (I am assuming you have the newer type where you send the brain box as well) Thanks, David

I recall this coming up a few months ago and a few seasoned players were adamant that Vfe is for 10 degrees as well. Eg Acclaim I do wonder how much had to do with demonstration and certification.

All, I was just reading this thread and thinking about the need to practice simulated engine-out profiles (descent angle, speed). I always try to visualize a return as part of the brief, taking into account runways, winds, etc. I'm reading Nato Jaros' engine-out procedures booklet and thinking about what would work well for the Acclaim Type S. Goal is to simulate a similar descent angle ("wire") at Vg (best glide speed) via throttle/RPM settings to practice flying simulated profiles. Obviously this will be different than flight idle with prop full-forward in many cases. Any parameters folks have to share with the community? DK ETA: Would ideally simulate whatever would be the best-range settings, which might involve setting the prop finer for a power-off glide. Though I suppose you might have to work out what actually stretches the glide.

Thank you guys for the info. We're circling back to this now and starting with a medical/student cert... He got a long list of AMEs and I don't recognize any of the people offhand. Do you guys have any recs for an AME in the area? @Utah20Gflyer @Air pirate @UteM20F

Was assuming that replacement would be required, and supply is an issue.

Hi All, Since my plane has LEMO plugs, and I need to call for clearance at an airport I frequent, I bought a David Clark One-XP headset. Great unit. Only problem is that the control box is constantly in the way. The LEMO plug is on the left, front of the left side arm rest. So the cable and box keep snagging on me, the seat, the yoke, etc. It comes with a little clip holder, but there are no features over there to attach. I am thinking of mounting a little loop (or a full DC-specific box clip) to the side panel just under the storm window. And then, since the cable snags the yoke at times, I was going to put some 3M sticky-backed clips nearby to secure the cable run to the LEMO socket. Any: existing experiences in solving this? (clever ideas) tips/tricks on mounting something to the side panel? The finish is some odd pseudo-pleather (2009 Acclaim)... Very functional but things don't stick easily to it. So I am thinking to sink a tiny wide-pitch screw. But firing screws in blindly is asking to be, well, screwed. Maybe I can fish a thin flat hook adjacent to the window to hold the box. Thoughts appreciated! Brought to you today from The Department of First World Problems. David

That is a really good point! I do look at them in flight (for a cross-check on balance at least) but will pay closer attention to how they differ.

@Patrick Horan I think you're already fully in the loop on the do-it-yourself marking discussion, but now that I'm at a computer I dug up the other thread for those maybe wanting to fab a temporary replacement : Note that the scale markings vary from model to model; you can use my template for the appropriate 89/100 tanks, but if not the approach is generalizable.

Seems pretty fair. When I got my plane we overhauled the prop but some say IRAN is smarter unless you need the time reset on the log for valuation. Am curious, why are you going with the MT? I've always thought they seemed like an elegant piece of engineering, but also the TopProp seems well rated and well suited to the application. OTOH maybe to see what's it's like since you are hardly afraid to try new things? Happy New Year all!

"So [he's] got that going for him, which is good..."

ETA: to be clear it is often light rime or short bursts of moderate... No SLD or hanging out forever without a plan.

Exactly. A very conservative person can field a FIKI bird and use it only for inadvertent icing. But in many places you *will* find ice. The question is outs (above, below, turn around, elsewhere), severity/inciting conditions, duration, etc. I could not fly my commute many times without the ability to confidently penetrate some (reasonably forseeable) amount of ice. It removes an immense amount of worry to have a countermeasure. Gives you time and attention to worry about the turbulence, routing, and other hassles.

I went with a custom overlay (will dig up thread). While I'd hoped to have a proper replacement sooner, it is holding up well...

Is halfway "half empty" or "half full"? Other threads imply it might have to do with whether or not it's G100UL.

Canadian much? That entire post has a real ring of authenticity... I can hear the snow squeak as you step on it. Lived in MN for several years and got just a taste of all the little winterproofing rituals. Do you have a "schedule" or "rhythm" for changing oil grades during the year? Seems like a significant input to the OP's problem. Since I'm down in Montana now where it's warm I don't have quite the challenge you do, though I really an loving my Reiff XP plus cowl plugs on the occasional very cold or left-out days. Thankfully I am usually hangared. D

The VEP switch, in my plane, has one micro-relay as part of the gear safety circuit (in lieiu of a squat switch as noted) and the other 3-wire circuit switching the stall vane heater between low and high (ground and flight), through the combined pitot heat circuit. Might be FIKI only in this model, not sure. But it sounds like there's some variation out there so you should figure it out carefully before eviscerating. That last black thing? Not sure. Probably a remote unit for a turbo encabulator or something like that.

Ah, sorry I thought you meant moving stopping distances. FWIW many are taught (even in regular driver ed) to stop to see the wheels ahead of you, which allows you to get out from behind stopped cars. In some urban contexts, this is also a tactical advantage (you are less likely to be pinned for carjacking), and is also taught in the relevant contexts. I admit I tend to do it in cities esp. if there are a lot of dicey looking people wandering around the intersections. I do hear you about blocking left turn lanes. The other thing is stopping short on left turns so you block the oncoming turner's vision and restrict his timing of action. But almost no one knows to "stop long" on a left turn and people seem to think you are doing something wild if you go past them. I digress... On the topic of gear speed, a few here have advocated dropping gear early at higher speeds to modulate descent better. I did this a few days ago with a slam-dunk through turbulence and icing (didn't want to pop the brakes). It also helped stablize the plane in a fierce mountaintop crosswind and 6/10 (FlySto) turbulence. But it felt weird and I wondered if the gear doors were more likely to drift out of rig. Usually I try to carry a lot of speed in the descent, clean w/ or w/o brakes, if turbulence allows. D

Tailgate on a route with multiple lights to get them to change faster? No thanks. Cheaper to not hit things.

So... mystery solved. I spoke to the mechanics who've worked on the plane most recently. It turns out that the oil used to recharge the Challenger air filter for the 100 hr ICA (done only a few hours ago) is red in color. The LeakTec they use is, on the other hand, the blue or green variety. I decowled the engine top & bottom today and looked carefully. The red oil is clearly distinct from the circulating engine oil, and I see the drops at the lowest point on the compressor side of both turbos. A trace along the underside of the air filter, and some lesser traces elsewhere. Nothing on the upper portions of the engine at all. My theory is that either: 1. The oil misted into the induction system and collected on the manifolds, or the compressor scroll, and dripped back down, a bit worked out along joints or the turbo housing. A trace along one of the compressor discharge hoses (routed upward) might support this. 2. It simply leaked out the air filter housing and was blown about the lower compartment, eventually collecting on the lowest points. Either way, it's very reassuring that there's no source of other red stuff (like degenerating Loctite, gasket compound, etc.). And the small amount of oil is a previously-known thing, attributed to that flange gasket or collection of dipstick drip from above. Thank you all for the inputs! I'm going to separately figure out a good cleaning solution (mineral spirits) for future use, but the current worry is addressed. D

Were you using the CLAUS1 call sign?

@EricJ I did a web search and saw bottles of LeakTec looking fluorescent greenish-yellow. Are there varieties, and does it change color?

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Hartzell 3-blade scimitar with ice boots, PHC-J3YF-1RF. It was overhauled (not IRAN) about 120 hrs ago by Jordan Propeller in TX (working with the Mooney factory, came well-recommended). I had the thought about Loctite. Two cylinders were replaced about 35 hrs ago, #3 and #4, somewhere not far away there was a gasket on a Left turbo flange replaced (under theory that was causing a slow seep)... That's the one with two bolts that has a stalk attaching to the little cylinder. They said they tightened some sump bolts, a rocker cover, etc. Not sure if some loctite might have been used. It occured to me that the leak check compound (LeakTec) might have been colored, and either of the abovet was "liberated" by precip and heavy TKS use recently, finally washed down. I may go and decowl it after Christmas events and see if I can discern more of a pattern or source. D

Doh! Thought I did that.