00-Negative

Bedrug. I have a "Bedrug" made for the bed my F-250. I also have the same bedrug material pre-cut and molded for my Jeep interior flooring and sidewalls. I love this stuff. Very lightweight. Waterproof holds no odor or moisture. The edges won't unravel when trimmed, so it doesn't need binding. Comes in charcoal gray. I thought it would be a great idea to put this in place of the carpet in my Mooney. I tested it with a lighter. This stuff ignites and spreads flame like dry hay.

I saw that post briefly and marked it for future reference. He did a good job. His post is gone only a few hours later. I can only think the hall monitors got him with "burn certs, field approvals, IA approvals, logbook entries, PMA parts , owner produced parts, etc. Because ya know.... All the NTSB reports we read always mention the upholstery and whether it was a contributing factor. -David

That picture is my plane. I copied @Utah20Gflyer in the post listed below. I built a simple vacuum forming box and used 1/16 ABS to make mine. I bought the wemac vent from ebay. They are a game-changer. It directs airflow directly wherever you want and the aft vents can be directed at the pilot as well. Also, someone just uploaded a 3D print version on thingiverse a few days ago. Search Mooney.

The easy button is to get a prescription for medical oxygen. Cash price for a full tank was $15 last year and exchanges are $15 as well. I don't worry about aging tanks. Your healthcare provider should be okay with prescribing because it is medically necessary when flying at altitude and I can't really foresee any downside or liability. Health insurance or HSA should not be used for this, just pay cash. My tank is equipped with a pulse regulator which works very well. I usually exchange 2 tanks when mine get down to about 1/3 for $30. If you can't get your healthcare provider to do this, reach out to me privately. I'm not sure about prescribing medical equipment across state lines, but if I can, I'll do it for free. -David

Not nice at all redbaron1982 (basic member). But thank you for your opinion and the free tutorial. +1 for being so easily amazed. -3 for being a basic member. My post asking if this is real is highly suggestive that I did not exactly fall for it. Even a simpleton like myself was suspicious of its authenticity. I played the video on my phone while driving between workplaces, so I watched very little of the video. I am also surprised that a fake video would be created on a subject that has such a narrow following. -David

Is this real? -David

I placed my order with Lasar 4/12/2024. My part arrived 12/23/2024. -David

Navion?

I just got off the phone with Lasar and ordered another so I can sell you mine. PM me. -David

I just got off the phone with Lasar and ordered another so I can sell you mine. PM me. -David

I've never had my caps leak, and I have the fluorosilicone o-rings from Gallagher. They work well. But the pool of water that collects in the recessed cavity bothers me. If the plane sits for a day or so after a rainfall, the water will evaporate except for some that collects below the cap on top of the o-ring which will inevitably spill into my tank when I remove the caps during preflight. I did glue a rubber edge to my fuel cap cover that creates an adequate seal, I just don't have a picture of the final product. I tried several different ideas prior to what I'm using now. Everything else would get blown off of the wing... not by storm winds, but by prop wash from planes turning to park. Blue painters tape is an effective solution, but it shows up in the pictures when I'm grabbing candid pictures of my girl. -David

I made some fuel tank covers recently and tried them out this past weekend. I parked outside in north Arkansas for the weekend where we got plenty of rain. My covers stayed on and kept the water out perfectly. I used magnets that stick to the steel center post of the fuel cap. I cut 1/16" abs plastic which I heated to form a concave shape. I tested it in place with a 200mph blower. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085NP6SQY?ref=fed_asin_title -David

I am going to change my panel to a conventional layout. My current panel is original and it's awful (attached below). Wondering if you used the Lord rubber isolators or went without and what, if any, problems you've had with either :panel sagging with the mounts, or instrument damage without the mounts. Thanks. -- David

I am definitely interested. Good idea. I'll buy it from you. I don't care about paperwork, major vs minor modification, STC, 337, 8130, TCDS, NORSEE, OPP, etc. This falls under the category, "Creature Comforts" along with air vents, sun visors, and cupholders. The other category is "Do what makes sense to keep your plane in the air". I have yet to read an NTSB report that summarized the interior furnishings of the plane or even noted any modifications. I don't think anyone is verifying that the GI-275 was installed by a Garmin certified "avionics technician". It seems they spend more time verifying that the instrument was functioning as intended. I have read reports reviewing inappropriate or lack of maintenance and ineffective repairs, but nothing regarding the burn certs for the leather covering on a guy's yoke. I am ranting because I have seen great and well-intentioned ideas come up on this forum that end up vanishing because people instantly question the legality of everything. Not just here, it's worse on the Facebook groups. A guy recently posted a pic of his panel illuminated in purple by an LED light strip. Born and raised in LSU Tiger country, I thought it looked great. The Karens came out instantly. End of rant... I would much prefer a smaller footprint without a gauge. As small as possible. On a different note: I recently replaced all of my door seals after sitting in my plane waiting out some rain and watching water drip in thru both doors as well as the avionics bay.. I recently parked outdoors for a weekend event and the plane was unexpectedly rained on soaking the copilot seat. I read on this forum that slightly inflating the seal prior to closing the door can prevent this. Of course I forgot to do this. And I don't like the stress on the door and the seal when closing with partial inflation. If your controller comes to fruition, I will probably look to add a 2nd switch mounted by the baggage door so I can inflate after egress when I leave my plane uncovered outside. -David

I think it's up for bid starting at $2k with a buy-it-now for $3k.