TaildraggerPilot

The electric step mod is fabulous. Mine is actuated by the beacon switch. Be sure to open up the tail access a few times a year to lube the jackscrew and original step bearings / shaft or it may bind up and stretch the new tension spring. I use LPS 1.

Is it really that easy to get the reinforcement structure / crossmember out to replace the impossible-to-get-to rear nutplate?

Who times approaches anymore?

I get a 3 degree glide path around 90 MPH with gear down, no flaps, full prop and 13.3 MP.

I think you may be referring to the magenta “trend vector” indication.

“Turn & Bank” is at the top of the ADI and the “ball” is at the bottom. They are always there. Nice and easy scan.

Simple round dials such as these?:

They don’t give out awards for who can save the most money not upgrading small aircraft. They also don’t give out awards for who can spend the most money upgrading small aircraft. For most of us, flying a Mooney around is a hobby, not a competition. For my latest personal aircraft, I wanted something with a panel closer to my current work plane, than one I was driving around 30+ years ago. Life is short, it’s only money.

I’m concerned about true compatibility with the GNS-530W, including but not limited to all GFC 500 modes and ForeFlight connectivity through my GX3.

That looks to be the original fabric firewall “insulator” material. My footwells have some newer, lofty off-white fibrous-type insulation laid in front of the tired original fabric. You may want to go ahead and replace all the heat/vent scat under there while you have the access. They don’t look to good.

I think the rule about that changed within the last decade or so……

Yes, that’s the RTV in question

My E has the trusty Dog House, and a very tightly sealed one at that. No comparison there unfortunately. A lot of Mooney drivers run around with oil temps pushing 225 and don’t even blink. I don’t make note of anything over 215 in climb or 195 in cruise, but higher temperatures than those are well within documented limits. Lycoming operating limits have been crafted over decades of development. Trust the numbers. Here’s a few panel data pics from a Dog House ‘67 E if anyone is interested (note: 11.5k shot was on 100 Dino oil at the tail end of a jug break-in period and the lower altitudes were later on after servicing the engine with 20W50 AW)

I don’t normally see any RTV on that area with the other rear-mount oil coolers I’ve seen. Any “blow-by” air would help cool the end tanks of the oil cooler anyway, right?

I agree with Mark about the RTV. I think somebody went a bit overboard with sealing that contact area and probably did more harm than good.

All things being equal, if only the oil temp has changed, I’d look at the thermal valve. I wouldn’t worry about anything under 215, but that’s just me.

Those metrics seem pretty normal to me for a climb profile. Nothing is close to redline. Pro Tip: 120-130 IAS during climbs should provide you with the best cooling air flow with that J Cowl mod. What was your airspeed at that point? Do you have any shots of your JPI when settled down in cruise?

What was the OAT during that climb? IAS? Cowl flap setting?

2.3 AMU’s for a ‘67 E, $130k hull, hangared, 14k TT (all the ratings and gold seal)

Do you mind sharing the headrest tube outer diameter and distance (on center) between the tubes?

This may be the best you’ll find: https://www.ebay.com/itm/115826609247?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=cQBbweDeSl6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CEVi502NSO-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

On the doghouse: try laying a bead of high temp RTV (orange) between parts, rather than lay tape all over them. If your screws stay put, the RTV will make a great gap seal, and yes, you can pull parts apart with little fanfare. The RTV creates an abstract gasket of sorts, and you should be able to just screw doghouse panels back together using the same RTV “gasket” previously applied. I wish there was an intake ramp mod, similar to the one available from LASAR for traditional baffle F’s, to make better use of the adjusted intake airflow created by the cowl closure mod.

I’m waiting on the Garmin GHA-15 certification myself……..

Yes, it sure is, but if you are looking for specific parts for a legacy S-Tec, you might need to look everywhere.

On eeeeeeeeebay now: https://www.ebay.com/itm/186801062322?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=GVx6n2AETrO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CEVi502NSO-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.com/itm/235362147298?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=B_crCP8aTgC&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CEVi502NSO-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.com/itm/276417668373?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=RiRghz_qQ1m&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CEVi502NSO-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY