AnAngryGoose

We already have some new thin foam which will go behind new orcotek insulation. Used it before and its very quiet. Never thought about using CLD sheets. Good idea. No stains. Plane has the bladders instead of wet wing luckily and they seem to be doing their job. I'm sure I'll be digging deep soon on removing the discs when I get to jacking it up. Already done. The only original wiring is tied to units I already plan on removing. Anything new I can get brand new wiring from work luckily Thanks all!

Thanks for the input. I'm only really planning on getting the G5s since I can get them at a good price, and they're easy enough to install and less worry than the old analog stuff that's currently there. Getting it flying is absolutely first priority, most things will be on hold until later for sure. I was just going to take advantage of this downtime while I can. It is at worst an investment. I can definitely get my money back at the price I'm into it for but I hope that won't be the case. I really am looking forward into flying this thing as much as possible so a few QOL upgrades seemed reasonable if I can make it happen for a good price.

Dealing with potential corrosion and dealing with the 208 bulliten is definitely on the to do list. I'll be adding a WAAS GPS. I've been trying to research and decide which system would be most worth investing in while saving money and working well in a future system. GPS 175 is at a good point and will integrate to any other Garmin system I plan on adding later so that's what I'm mainly looking at now. It has a century IIb AP with wing leveler. Not the best but it will (hopefully) work for now. Thanks for the advice on the panels. I'll be sure to keep that in mind.

Hi everyone, I recently just bought a 1964 M20D (FINALLY!). There is a lot of work to be done to get it flying but overall it's in a good place, relatively. I'll list the current state with some info on each major project as I see with a little info for each. I'm absolutely open and welcome to any info, advice, ideas, or input anyone here may give me. Currently the panel is removed but most wiring is there (a good bit will be leaving though), which helps me honestly as I plan to do a few small upgrades. I'm planning on removing the KI525 HSI and the KI256 AI and replacing them both dual G5's. I was hoping to remove the vacuum system with this upgrade but from I have read it seems the retractable step also uses this system. Is that the case? I've seen a electric replacement but not sure on that yet. The interior is completely removed. The purchase included brand new molded plastic sidewalls, 6 or 7 full hides of light brown leather, and all the other needed interior pieces. I will eventually reupholster all seats and such with the leather but that may come later. I plan on using this time with it removed to deeply inspect and clean the cabin area including the steel cage, spar, and side wall sections. Any other things I should do while it's out? Advice for interior work? It comes with brand new landing gear discs which I'll be replacing. I have the tooling for the mains (the one used to check torque), but not the one to compress the nose. Any advice on getting that done somewhat easily would be more than welcome. I'll be doing a full annual on it to dive deeper into all other remaining sections of the plane. Engines looked good so far with borescope and compression checks. Only 200hrs on engine which is nice. Anything else to do while its down? Ideas? Advice? Crazy to own a plane finally, let alone a MOONEY! Sorry for the long post. Just figured it was easier to throw all these things into one place than to make 8 different threads later. I can post some pics next time I'm at the hangar if anyone is interested. Thanks in advance.

You'll need to convert your wiring over from the the Terra to the ACK (not sure if they are interachangeable) and then run your static lines to the new encoder. Should be relatively straight forward. Give me a bit and I'll try to find manuals to see exactly what you need. I'll PM you

Someone posted on for sale on trading post as well

You'll always have MS to come help ya out though it seems!

Thank you! This should do it! Very appreciated.

You should be able you set it yourself. Per the install manual: Then here are your options to change. I included other options as you may want different values for your low alarms, etc. Finally, here is what it says for fuel related values: I'll send you the full install manual. If you have issues or other questions feel free to ask me.

Trying to help a friend diagnose a problem with his A/P. Anyone happen to have a STEC 60-2 install manual? Would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you! I only need the wiring diagrams

#1 rule of garmin avionics. Do NOT remove power during any database/software/anything update. Whatever you gotta do, but do NOT remove power or RIP unit. However, your issue sounds like a windows issue and that your files are somehow open in another program. Download files locally, close anything that may be using them, copy them over, then try it. If issue continues, let a shop handle it.

Its a long way from you, but Coastal Winds Avionics at KMOB is excellent. Small shop, but the owners there have decades of garmin experience and will do great work for a good price. Great work there. Give em a call and they may be able to help over the phone similar to what @atpdave was saying about Paul.

You would most likely need to adjust the pots, yes. On a KAP 140 at least (not 100% on a 150) you have to change a few settings on the KAP config module using a laptop. Potentially the pots aren't aligned quite right but not entirely sure. Definitely check in with your shop and I'd be glad to help more if needed.

Also, be sure your setting for HSI Type on the 275 is "King KI 525" and NOT "NSD 360 DC" This should be your other settings:

Was the KAP 150 reprogrammed after installing the Gi 275? When changing from a analog HSI to a 275, you generally need to reprogram the KAP 150 using a terminal software provided by BK. It is easy to overlook in the manuals. Give me a few and I will try to find it.

Start by disconnect the flap motors, one at a time, and see if it pops. The motor could be shorted internally causing it to pop. If that isn't it, try physically chasing the wire leaving the breaker to any point where it may be chafing and shorting to ground. Also check and be sure all connections on breakers are tight. I'll try to find a diagram to help more.

Very nice work! What did you use to remove any existing rust or other things? Also what primer did you use? I'll be doing the same soon and it'd be nice to know what others used.

Very nice! I'll be starting my own restoration project soon and I'm looking forward to being able to post updates like this one. Keep em coming!

Fish tape can work, also a long coat hanger, like the ones that have a coating on them. You can straighten those to get it started but fish tape or safety wire with a pull wire may work best. Be sure to leave a pull wire there for next time. Also take care to use all stainless steel or brass hardware on the GMU and be sure it's not too close to your strobe to disrupt your readings.

From the shop standpoint they aren't much more. The 1000MAX requires certain wiring that will cost more like lightning protection overbraird, and a few extra wires. It will only take probably 4 extra hours in reality. You definitely need to upgrade to the MAX. The extra battery is nice and there is more future support I imagine. I say get a quote for each and see what the difference is. I'd be happy to give a second opinion if you want. I install these often.

Agreed. Absolutely go for the 1000. The software is better and cleaner. It has more features. It's an all around better choice.

Pm'd you

I'll get you a copy tomorrow. Lost my USB with manuals on it or I'd send it today

Thanks for the input. Insulation has been replaced so that's good. No apparent leaks so far from what I've but I still have a few other places to check Thanks

Ill ask around on this and try it in a small area and see how it works. I plan on replacing all window/door seals anyway to prevent this in the future. Thanks everyone for the advice. Both in flying and working on the Mooney. I'm excited for both.