C.J.

My Mooney's serial number is two #s earlier than yours and had its original VOR/LOC/GS antenna & coax. Its range was way better than yours, but not as good as it should've been. A new RAMI AV-525 & coax fixed the problem. My technician was unable to pull the original coax out of the vertical stabilizer, so just put new connectors at each end and then routed new coax forward.

Runway Entrance & Stop Bar Lights currently exist & are all great, but they are no substitute for staying heads-up while taxiing and complying with a hold short clearance, confirming you're cleared across or just stopping if in doubt or utilizing the no-cost low-tech method of looking out the window left & right when crossing an active runway.

I'm in the middle of a plastic repair & restore process right now. I recommend S.E.M. products, specifically their soap, adhesion promoter & paint. My results have been great. Just follow their directions. By all means get a respirator AND goggles because the adhesion promoter & paint fumes are horrible. You'll need nitrile (or neoprene) gloves and unless you want your finger to cramp up get a "Can Gun" aerosol spray trigger from Aircraft Spruce. Paint on a calm day ideally between 70* to 85*F. It's best to apply several very light coats (up to 7 or 8 in my case). It dries very fast but wait the directed amount of time between coats. If you've never spray painted before watch a YouTube video for proper technique. It's not difficult but I practiced on an old cardboard box just 3 times until I had it perfected. Leave your finished work to cure for a day or two before handling. Most if not all odors will have dissipated by then unless the ambient temperatures have been cool. Fun Facts - S.E.M. paint is expensive but totally worth it. IIRC McFarlane sells a limited number of colors and had it for a good price. Unfortunately, not the specific color I wanted. O'Relly Auto Parts was pricey and had supply chain issues. Amazon saved the day and was by far the least expensive but be aware they don't have returns on paint due to it being HazMat. Calculate your square footage necessary and order conservatively knowing you can always order more if needed. For cracks in the plastic, I initially tried "Satellite City" instant glue, specifically their "Hot Stuff" and "Super 'T'" product. It has the viscosity of water which I found difficult to control and the results were not what I'd hoped for. I ended up using 7 Quarical Easy ABS Repair Tips for Easy Plastic Solutions which is an all-in-one pre-mixed ABS solution which proved to be outstanding. My headliner had some very bad cracks, splits & holes The ABS resin resembles tar and is applied from the back so no will ever see it. Time will tell if it holds up but I'm very optimistic. If you need more specifics just send me a DM. It'd be easier to explain it on the phone. BTW great looking Mooney. Wow!!!

Both these companies are very good. Rudy overhauled my ASI. I bought an overhauled Mid-Continent p/n 1394T100-3Z TC from Commander that they had in stock for $950. Rudy Aircraft Instruments - Overhaul Prices Commander Instruments and Avionics, Inc.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd use broker Jimmy Garrison to find an E, F or J with avionics as close as possible to what I really wanted. Upgrading avionics was a major test in patience. That said, I REALLY like what I chose for my new panel. As for a new prop, $$$$$ would depend on 2 blades versus 3, scimitar or composite. Overhauled prop governor in 10/2022 - $420 (Aircraft Accessories of Oklahoma) plus $1500 labor to remove/install. Overhauled Hartzell 2 blade prop 09/2023 - $3300 (H&H Propeller Service) plus $400 labor to remove/install. $20K seems way too low for a high-quality job. My choices were Hawk @ KZPH or Boss @ KRUQ. Boss' quote was $29,500 for everything with an overall white base coat plus 2 trim colors (no red or metallic) with a very simple paint scheme. The lead-time was 18 months & down time was 10 weeks.

It can take a few attempts to get the proper technique. Don't pause during process. Retraction becomes difficult as speed increases. I raise the gear at 80 mph with no problem. Extending the gear is easier requiring no effort as gravity is your friend, your part being ensuring it's placed properly into the down-lock block; green light is secondary. I find it operates even smoother after annual with the gear newly greased. There are eleven zerks for the nose and seven per main (eight on later years).

Just how much faster is a J, Missile or Ovation going to get you to your new missions' typical destinations and at what cost delta? Personal property tax, insurance, annuals & direct operating costs will all be higher, so in the end it boils down to what puts the biggest smile on your face. Only you can determine if that's worth it. My plane was vintage '65 when I bought it, but now has a new GMA345, GNC355, GNC255, used GTX327 & a reorganized 6 pack with a GI275 HSI. I don't miss the Narco Mk12s at all and the GNC355 is vastly more user friendly that the GNS 430s & 530s in the rental fleets I flew before buying my Mooney. Life's too short; you worked hard for your $$$ and retirement. Enjoy the fruits of your labor and don't over-analyze it. Blue skies & happy retirement.

Old Republic through Southwest Aviation Ins. Group, $2100 for a $105K valuation '65 M20C, hangared - ATP, CFI-I, 25K TT, 24K TT retractable, >100 TT Mooney.

Where is this being taught? That was not my experience, but I've been out of the G.A. training world for decades. Training in 74 -78, flaps before gear with at least 10 knots below Vfe & Vle was emphasized. Upon graduation as a newly minted CFI, I taught exactly that & didn't change my methods as a Part 135 check airman or Part 121 sim instructor.

I'm basing my conclusion that it spun given that no grease channel opening was visible with the zerk removed. I'll be at the hangar tomorrow and try moving the main wheels as you suggested. I'll need my mechanic to move the gear while I try the upper two zerks. I think I can manage the two zerks on the gear's "knee" unassisted. Thanks for the tip.

My A&Ps gave me the enviable task of greasing the landing gear. I own & used a LockNLube coupler & the 8-piece accessory kit. 4 of 7 zerks on R MLG and 1 of 7 on the L MLG would NOT take grease. Next step, clean out the zerks and free up the bushing grease channel with a wire. Upon removal of the zerk on the L-MLG I found that the bushing had spun. I did not continue to remove the 4 zerks on the R MLG to see their status at this time. The plane was on the jacks when I serviced it. My question is, what is the fix for a spun bushing? For reference here are the affected bushing/zerk locations and p/n from the IPC starting on page 98/278 LH-MLG Index 22-3 bushing p/n 914020-19 (the outboard zerk) RH-MLG Index 22-1 grease fitting p/n MS150001-1 at the Main Spar Attach Box Index 22-16 bushing p/n 914020-17 Index 22-3 bushing p/n 914020-19 (the inboard zerk) Index 22-5 bushing p/n 914007-5 Thank you in advance

Surge in Helene relief efforts led to about 30 mid-air close calls over North Carolina in a single day - CBS News

Hank, Thank you for your "shocking" PIREP - much appreciated.

My mechanic had no specific reference regarding the straight stem being required. He concluded the TR87 70* valve stem would work solely based on your photos and trouble-free experience thus far. I looked at the TCDS http://www.accelerationtech.com/Photos/Mooney/TypeCert/FAA-Type-Cert-Mooney-2A3.pdf pages 13/53 and 20/53, item 202(a) which specified regular tubes. I would assume that means straight stems. I e-mailed Frank Crawford at Mooney to confirm if your 64E and my 65C left the factory with the 40-24 wheel assembly, of the 3 different assemblies listed in the TCDS; they did. I called Parker Hannifin (thanks @PT20J for that suggestion) to ask what inner-tube valve stems were compatible with the 40-24 and their data only specified a straight stem. BTW they don't manufacture the 40-24 anymore and it's listed as "obsolete". I agree that it's frustrating there's no reference available regarding this valve stem. Evidently, it's word of mouth and MooneySpace posts that will guide us for now.

I used MD Rubber Window Seal that was recommended by @0TreeLemur and @Hector . It works well but measure & cut precisely because a package of two 8.5-foot strips is just enough to do the job - there's very little excess.

3 - 4 knots better than book at 9500' & 10,500'. Book at lower altitudes. Guppy mouth mod & Power-Flow.

@takair I'll have to ask my mechanic tomorrow if he had a specific reference re: straight stems for the MLG wheels. I'll update the thread if he does. He did state the 90-degree stem for the nose wheel I ordered/received would work. Thanks for the long term (near 4 year) PIREP for the 70-degree stems.

OK, so $259 versus $103. @Skates97 You have a real flair for understatement. So why did you choose to go against the MS SOP of striving to be a ch**p bas*%#d or was there not a less expensive alternative at the time?

Looking for anyone with long term experience with main wheel inner tubes with a 70* degree valve stem. Was losing 2 pounds of pressure per week on my existing tubes. Servicing them was annoying given the valve stem is pressing against the wheel so I elected to get two Aero-Classic 6.00x6 GL-60877B tubes with the TR-87 70-degree valve stem. I checked with my mechanic confirming p/n prior to ordering. Now, without looking at them, he's saying they won't work. Don't remember exactly his reason, but IIRC it's the way the hole is drilled through the wheel not being able to accommodate the 70-degree bend. Found an old thread from 12/18/2020 prior to ordering the tubes - pictures below of a 1964 E before and after. @takair experience seems positive re: 70-degree stems, so what am I missing here? Is there a significant difference between the MLG wheels on my 1965 C versus a 1964 E? I just want a tube that doesn't leak and when service is needed, I'd like it to be easier to do. Thanks in advance.

So, an average of just over eleven hours per year for the last 7 years and 3 months. Asking price history - October 6, 2023 $210,000, on January 31, 2024 $191,000 and today it's $169,950

Yes, and oddly enough it was on 2/3/2024, my M20C's airworthiness date + 59 years. Its S/N was 33 numbers later and it's based at KLKR, just 85nm away.

You're welcome, Z. My avionics technician made the two wedges using a 3D Printer. It's a very interesting fabrication process - just search for a YouTube video that explains it. C.J.

Your best bet would be to call and ask the manufacturer of the TC you're intending to buy. I had the same issue albeit with the original Garwin 2-inch T&B in my shotgun panel. It definitely had a 14-degree wedge, and I'd bet your failed TC had one too. Given my AI was also 59 years old, my solution was to completely re-do the panel into a standard 6-pack, so I bought an overhauled TC & am putting a wedge in. My TC was calibrated to zero degrees, so the wedge was necessary in the new panel. I also installed a new RC Allen AI built & calibrated to 8 degrees and it also required a wedge.