redbaron1982

Hi guys, I'm replacing the fuel nozzles in my M20J. I'm trying to follow Lycoming SI 1275C, which indicates to tighten to 60 in-lb and then until the A faces down. On the other hand, if I read SSP 1776 (SERVICE TABLE OF LIMITS AND TORQUE VALUE RECOMMENDATIONS) it indicates max torque for the fuel nozzle (ref 914) 60 in-lb. In my case, this is the follow that I've done: Tighten to 40 in-lb. Check the positions of the A, it was in the 9 o'clock position. Continue tightening to 60 in-lb and check the position of the A, it was exactly in the 12 o'clock position. I continue to 80 in-lb, check again the A and was in the 2 o'clock position. I really don't want to continue torquing until it's facing down, as most likely it will be well over 100 in-lb. I will check today with the mechanic that is helping me with this, but what's your experience with this? I don't feel ok either under torquing, like to 30 in-lb or over torque to 120 in-lb or so. At this point I prioritize being at 60 in-lb over the A position, as I understand the A position only affects the possibility of having some drops of fuel near the nozzle after shutdown. Thanks!

That's one of the main reason why I like flying, the rest of the world just turns off as soon as I start preflying.

I've removed them because I was being accused of blackmailing or being a troublemaker. My first intention was to get some good advice regarding very "uncommon" issues I'm having with my airplane, and I did get that from most of you, and I really appreciate that. My second intention was to share what I think is not a good job done by a certain shop, but in the future, I will keep those to myself, I will choose myself which shops I don´t want to take my airplane back to again, and I will let others discover by themselves. I will try to keep my questions in the technical realm. (BTW: I was going to make a sarcastic comment, but that wouldn´t be "technical realm" :P) PS: Sorry for the good knowledge shared by all of you that was lost in those post.

I really like the idea of having a loan-a-tool program, maybe extend it to loan-a-hand too? I'd love to share the tools I have as well as helping fellow mooniacs if they need a hand, it's a great way of learning. I'm located in KSGR, just in case someone needs a tool/a hand. Being proactive on a loan a tool program, what do you think is the best way? To ask through a new thread or should we set a Google sheet or something like that where everyone can indicate: mooneyspace name, location, tools. Like a directory of tools.

I hope it's a leaking capacitor, it should be fairly easy to fix if that's the case. I will take a look at the date the unit was manufactured to see if it falls inside these dates.

Hey guys, I've read (again) the KFC 150 operative manual, and I cannot find what I'm doing wrong on my side. Although I might be missing something, the operation seems to be straightforward. For instance, on yesterday's flight, this was the sequence I did (regarding the AP): After turning on the avionics, I performed an AP self-test (by pressing the test button). Which passed. After takeoff, above 1000ft AGL I engaged the NAV mode (by pressing the FD button, then the NAV button, and finally the AP ENGAGE button) mode to follow the course defined by the 430W, and the AP started to follow it. After that, I tried to engage ALT hold mode by pressing the ALT button, and it did not engage. If anyone knows a special sequence key I need to press to get this engage or tell me what I'm doing wrong, I'd appreciate your input.

Thanks guys. I'll re read the operating guide. But I do remember flying a KAP150 sometimes in flight school and don't remember having this issue. Also the two instructors that help me with the transition training couldn't figure this out either. Hopefully it's just me having to learn the right sequence of buttons to press so I'll read it again.

Yes, so after I turned on the avionics I do the AP test, then I play with the alt preselect and everything looks ok, without turning anything off I take off and then no more alt hold mode or alt arm/Capt.

I have an strange behavior with my KFC150 altitude hold mode / altitude preselect function. While testing in the ground everything "seems" (the quotes just because I cannot test everything) to be OK. If I press ALT in KFC150 it will iluminate, if I then set a VS in the preselect window it will go out. If I "ARM" the alt preselect it will stay ARM and (by adjusting the alt setting) I can simulate a change of altitude and the mode will go from ARM to CAPT and then to altitude hold whenever the selected altitude is reached. So again, in ground everything makes sense. After takeoff, the ALT hold mode in the KFC150 will not activate, the altitude preselect will not ARM (and of course no CAPT either). Only VS mode works OK in flight. Otherwise, the HDG, NAV, APR (except for GS) modes work OK. Does anyone have any idea why on the ground it might seem to at least make sense and while flying it won´t even engage? I'm trying to pin down what might be going on before taking in to a shop, as some of you might know I have had a first annual inspection that set me back 1yr and 40AMU, so I'm being as cheap as possible now!

Yeah, I was going through the data sheet and it seems to be like you say. I will give this a try.

Hey, I have several placed with chipped paint and also a few places with minor surface corrosion that I want to start treating with Alodine pen. My main question is, does the pen last after the first use? I don´t want to wait until I have identified all the places, but I´d rather use the pen as I see chipped paint / corrosion. My doubt is if it is OK to use the pen across several weeks or once it open it's better to use it all at once. I know the tips can be replaced if clogged, but they aren´t exactly cheap. Finally, side question, I know that if you paint a control surface you need to balance it. But what about small correction like removing chipped paint around a rivet, treating with alodine pen and paint over the rivet? I assume that small corrections like that should be ok without balancing. Am I correct?

Hey, that´s awesome. Some how my airplane has two tones of blue, I will check atlantic blue is one of the two.

Guys, a related question, I have my Mooney out of a annual inspection (10 hours TT after the annual). I bought a bottle of CamGuard. Can I pour it in into the existing oil? I mean, I know that I would be using camguard in an oil that is already 40% of it's lifetime, but apart from that, any issue? Or do you recommend me to wait until the oil change (I'm planning to do it at 25 hours mine, at least at the beginning as the engine has been sitting for 12 months and want to take the best care possible while I bring it back to regular flying).

I think the current scheme doesn't make sense at all. Something that mimics how pilots certification work make more sense. Private vs Commercial would be a first classification. Piston vs Turbine could be a type rating. Each type of aircraft could have a type rating above certain empty weight, same as pilots. Really, asking the same qualifications to someone who signs a return to service of a Cessna 152 or a 747-8 makes no sense at all.

Yes, I agree that 6 hours per day for 18 months is quite impossible if already working an 8 hours job and having a family. I think for now I will continue reading the FAA books and try to get a mechanic that's ok with me helping in the repairs. Hopefully in the near future we have hybrid courses, where the classroom can be done online at your own pace and exams and practice can be done in person.

Regarding if the sensor is working, I understand that the failure mode of temperature sensors affects the whole range, so I think if you have an EIS where you can see precisely the oil temperature and when the airplane is completely cool it reads something close to room temperature, then I think you can rule out the sensor.

I had the same issue on my J. The CFI that's helping me with the transition training put aluminum tape to cover 1/3 of the oil cooler and now oil temperature is around 160/170.

Oh, I didn't know that. I think I'll follow that path then.

I have those books and I'm reading through them. Again, I'm not concerned about knowledge tests, orals or practical tests. I'm not saying they are easy, I'm just saying that they are manageable. And also the AP schools are an option that I've considered. But again, even after going through all that you need you 30 months of experience, which is what I see difficult to achieve.

7200 Hours?! That's around 3.5 years working full time as a mechanic. It would be impossible for someone that is doing this as a hobby or for it's own personal aircraft.

Hi guys, Since I bought my Mooney more than a year ago I was thinking on getting a A+P mechanic license to do some repairs myself (mainly avionics and power plant). I'm quite confident that both the knowledge and practical exam, with some learning, and my experience as a hands on engineer, I could pass without much hurdle. My main doubt is about the experience that is required, seems very hard to get that experience if you're not working full time as a mechanic. Am I reading the regs correctly? Do I need to work full time as a mechanic for 18 months to meet the experience requirements? I know there are many owners that are also A+P mechanics, without working full time as a mechanic. How did you guys go the license?

I don't understand, aren't corrective glasses allowed for 2nd class and class 1? Or the 25/20 was with corrective lenses? Great work following all this process through the end and congrats on your renewed 2nd class medical.

Spark plugs, I'll have those checked next Monday.

I want to take advantage of this to give a quick PIREP on SavvyAviation, I think most of you guys are already familiar with it, but anyway. Great service, great value. For me is a no brainier to have their analysis service. The cost/benefit is huge. The value of your engine, aircraft and even more your life way outweighs the yearly cost of Savvy.

BTW today I checked to see if I could see anything obviously wrong with a lead wire or anything else and although I didn't find anything I did find that the leads are touching sharp aluminum edges. Is it ok to have this kind of things after a annual from Maxwell? For me is seems like it should have come up in the annual and be fixed. Suggestions on how I can fix it?