DCarlton

http://www.aerographics.com

Agree. Mid Continent overhauled mine and upgraded the display. No software; no databases. It just works. Love it.

Old habits. Been recording time at the end of the flight for over 30 years. Keep my medical stapled to the log book. Need it at the plane more than I need it at home. Old habits.

Hopefully the OP won't mind me taking a tangent but .... where do you guys keep your log book? Are you hardcopy or electronic? Do you leave it in the plane or take it back and forth in your bag?

I flew without my Brittain PC tracking my DG heading bug for about two years and definitely missed it. Finally got around to troubleshooting it (DG needed overhaul). I'll install a single G5 in the AI position at some point but keep my TC and vacuum system just to run my PC. I don't see myself going all in on digital avionics for this airplane and I'm a fan of the Brittain system. If you do remove the PC system, please pass or sell the parts to other Mooney owners that may need them.

Interesting. Haven't read or had anyone explain that but it makes sense. I'll try it. Thanks.

Guessing something must have failed on the right side when the gear was loaded abnormally. Just guessing...

If you were shopping for a M20J, would you walk away from an airplane that had an STEC already installed? Or would you consider it serviceable if it lets you down? There must be a value associated with the legacy autopilots already installed. Some must have more value than others. That's what I'm trying to ask. Are they all junk? I was able to repair my Brittain for less than $1000 this year; I've kept it going for almost 20. Any love for any of the other older ones?

Still hoping that someone will answer the question as to what legacy autopilot is the best to buy in an airplane if you have a choice. Which one is still supportable and maintainable? Not a new one; one of the older existing ones. Century? King? STEC? I'm guessing STEC. Can the STECs be overhauled and maintained?

Great discussion. The autopilot is the one thing that tends to break the bank and dictate all of the other requirements. If I were to buy again, I would be very happy with steam gauges on the pilots side, one G5 in the AI position, a GNS-530W (or similar upgrade). I prefer discrete instruments that can be repaired; not all in one systems; pitot static instruments are simple, elegant and reliable (with no software and no databases). So what would be the one autopilot that you would recommend having in an older plane that can be repaired or overhauled? One that will get you down the road for another 10 years? BTW, I've been flying my '67F for a couple of decades now and I've overhauled the autopilot once. It cost me maybe $2500. It doesn't track GPS; only a heading bug, but it's good enough for me.

All three M20's on their web site show pending sale. Good grief the market is nuts.

Definitely Coke vs Pepsi. I'd probably look at David Clark again before I jumped on Bose. DC has the history and Lightspeed is focused on aviation. Agree the Zulu muffs are deep if that bothers you. I've noticed a few strange audible noise cancelling artifacts on the take off roll but that's it. I think it's important to have glasses that don't interfere with the muff seal. I've heard Boses customer service is not as good as DC or Lightspeed. Coke vs Pepsi.

I don't want to create a debate but I honestly don't understand this line of thinking. There are a lot of pilots that won't or can't spend $60K on avionics and I don't think it's necessary. If necessary, and for me it's not necessary, that Garmin 430 could be swapped out with a used overhauled Garmin 430W easily for way less than $8K. All it needs its an antenna and RF cable upgrade. I just had my 430 overhauled by Garmin for less than $2K and it's great; like new. GTX-327s can be had cheap and GDL82s aren't that expensive or difficult to install. Steam gauges are fine; easy to see, reliable, and relatively cheap to overhaul. It doesn't take $60K to create a nice useful panel. I hate to see us discouraging new potential owners. Not everyone has money burning a hole in their pocket. They just want to fly safely. I think this one needs a look for similar money: http://www.skywagons.com/airplanes-forsale/1981-m20j-201-129900-here-placerville-n1138n

I have a friend that's in the Bose camp. We'll have to swap for comparison. I'm very satisfied though. Probably depends on what feels more comfortable.

Curious. How did you decide the Bose A20's were an upgrade? I love my Zulu 3s. Just bought a second set for my wife.

Yep. That's it. http://www.airpartsoflockhaven.com

If you prove that it's not the sender or the wiring, you can get those gauges overhauled if they're similar to the ones in my '67. Forget the name of the company up in the north east but I could look it up.

My terminology is probably a little off. I rarely take off without the mixture full rich unless high DA is involved. I need to revisit the best procedure to lean for high DA now that I have an engine monitor. Usually I lean until it runs rough, put a turn or two on it until it smooths out, then add another turn or two just to feel good about the setting. I haven't operated at a 5000+ foot airport in a long time.

Yep. It's really nice when it's gusty on final. Not sure how other autopilots respond in that situation; been too many years since I've flown anything different.

I tried leaning aggressively today to convince myself I'd always get a shudder when I advance the throttle. It works. However, I'll probably continue in most cases to lean for DA in the run up (ROP) and leave it there until I take off... unless I'm waiting for a long time. But lots of good tips.

This was useful. I warmed up at 1100-1200 and let my oil come up to 100 deg before I pulled out of parking today, and paid more attention to my taxi RPMs (keeping it between 1000-1200; although it takes a little more to get moving). I leaned during taxi and I let the plane run lean a bit before I shut it down. It was good to get back to some of those basics. Thanks for posting.

Except for the SB regarding flap hinge corrosion and the potential for structural issues. I have the idea that if I check my flaps, I might catch a bigger problem. I've already replaced one hinge and I've had the aircraft painted but I learned enough to make me want to check the flaps. But I get your point.

Getting off topic, but I'm curious, for the folks that really focus on useful load down to the lb, are you running a two blade or three blade prop? I put a three blade on mine when I bought a new prop and like it but wonder now if that wasn't the wisest choice. I'm actually thinking about getting my plane reweighed in order to deep archive all the old W&B information and start fresh.

I usually lower them to the take off position when I first open the door, then give them a little tug up and down during the walk around. Then let them up when seated and back down to takeoff before departure. It's not based on much other than early training; it's just what I do. I did experience inboard flap hinge corrosion many years ago and had to replace a hinge. I think there was a service bulletin. So yes, I exercise mine.

Your not too far from these guys. I haven't been but that's where I'm thinking about taking mine. https://www.weepnomorellc.com