Healthpilot

Do you guys know what size camlocs are needed for M20R by any chance? Cowling and air inlet two different sizes.

Thanks this is how to do it properly with wiring: I was thinking something simple like this... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CMDH8CHY/ref=sw_img_1?smid=A1SASWNVUUP7GO&th=1

I thought so too. But I tried it and it worked once. I had to turn Master On to start the trickle charger then the Battery Minder continued to charge no problem for over an hour with Master Off. I guess the solenoid remained open? When I tried the same procedure the day after no joy.

Has anyone been able to use Battery Minder to trickle charge at least Battery 1 on M20R via cigarette lighter adapter?

Just a quick update. I sent in both alternator and voltage regulator for iran. The alternator needed overhauled. Voltage regulator was inspected and turned out to be fine. Reinstalled both of them. Tested on the ground and in the air. Problem gone issue seems to be solved. Six weeks turnaround time the only drawback but better safe than sorry.

Thanks Jeff I will definitely try. I am sure this was no fun for you in IMC!

Before TO and after landing no annunciator light taxing or parked on the ground. No problem till cruise speed (24.5 square at 3k). Tested this twice max 15 miles around the patch. Then the Alternator light flashes on and off and then stops for a while, then it starts again. Master red light also does the same thing. Battery however consistently shows 27.8V charge and +2 amps even when the light is flashing. No CB is tripped. Frequency of the light flashing is somewhat inconsistent. Light flashes very dim hard to see in bright sun. Then it stops for 10 seconds or so before starting again. When I turn off/on the ALT switch the alternator is working and quickly picks up the load. Recharges the battery fast in a few seconds (+16 then lower up to 27.8V again). Anyone had this issue before? Connectors/wires to the main alternator seem secure.

This would be so nice!! Master switch needs to be on to use this accessory apparently. Not a good option for long body with G1000. Am I correct?

This is from the Garmin Manual: but how often does this need to be done? I found a non-Mooney specific version of this PDF that calls: grease on servos every 3 years or 1,000 hours. What do most of you guys do on Ovation 3 or other GFC700 autopilot G1000 equipped Mooney's? any other advice on maintenance of the autopilot systems? "4.6 GSA 81 Greasing Procedure Re-grease each servo output gear following the procedure below: 1. Remove each servo. 2. Remove excess grease build-up from the single servo output gear using a lint-free cloth. It is not necessary to remove all of the grease from the output gear, only the excess grease. DO NOT USE SOLVENTS TO CLEAN THE OUTPUT GEAR! 3. Using a brush or other applicator, apply a thin coat of grease to the servo output gear. Use Aeroshell 17 or equivalent (Synthetic Diester, Low Temp; Must meet MIL-G-21164D). 4. Re-install the servos. 5. Move control surfaces through their range of motion." GARMIN: https://static.garmin.com/pumac/G1000:Mooney_G1000_GFC700SystemMaintenanceManual.pdf Thanks! Healthpilot

Ok reporting back after annual inspection. As expected the culprit were the two bottom sparkplugs. Engine starting smooth and temp rising evenly now.

Will do Carusoam thank you for your input and suggestions. This issue at startup only happened once so far. The answer to your question is no. There is really no exact consistency during run-up: i.e. sometime C4 runs warmer than others. But in general C1 and C3 tend to run 20 to 30 degrees cooler when I look at most previous flights as well. That's true during cruise flight as well. Will do what you recommend and hopefully report back what I learn.

Here's the run-up graph of the same flight looks perfectly fine to me. Could have been a clogged fuel nozzle?

Thanks Skip. Will do. Good idea on sparkplugs and injectors. It seems a lot more likely to me. Mixture was full rich as per POH at cold start.

This I get and can do I think. Thank you.

If you look at the EGT data... How likely is it that both cylinders (1 and 3) have this same valve sticking issue? Not sure how to diagnose/ That's my problem.

Interesting. When you increase RPM in the video roughness seems to decrease. In my case it doesn't. If I increase RPM in the first 3 minutes roughness increrases.

If borescope cannot diagnose, what do you guys propose as a way to diagnose the potential sticking valve problem? Just to be clear this may be just me be overzealous since my A&P thinks this is just oil fouling, and the cylinder is just slow to come up to temp and burns off the oil the problem simply goes away. He is recommending monitoring and flying since this has never happened before. He thinks that it is VERY unlikely that this is a valve issue.

Great question. This is all I could find: Anatomy of a Valve Failure - AOPA

No plans to fly before checking. Annual is scheduled for week after next. This is the first time it happens. Does anyone know a good A&P in the Seattle area expert on Continental big bore engines that has access to a decent borescope? if not I will purchase one and give it to my mechanic. They seem to be quite cheap now. Is this one ok or not good enough? 5mm Ultra Fine Dual Lens Endoscope Camera, Hiacinto 5inch IPS 1080P Digital Inspection Camera with IP68 Waterproof, Automotive Scope Camera with 7 LED Lights, 16.5FT Semi-Rigid Cable, 32GB Card: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Thank you I will borescope cylinder 1 and 3 at annual coming up.

Yes I have tried boost pump no joy. I will check valves with borescope at annual. Although I thought big bore Continentals did not have this issue. Cylinders have less than 200 hours on them since top overhaul. I will also try pre-heat.

Yes i did. If I lean aggressively the engine dies on me.

Outside temperature 40 degrees F. This happens only for the first 3 to 5 min. I pulled the engine data. EGT on one and three are slow to climb. Could this be an issue with one of the sparkplugs on cylinder one and three?

Because LASAR has a 50% discount offer on annual inspections right now.

Has anyone had a chance to do an annual inspection at the new Lasar location in OR for a long body? Any feedback on them? New crew or same people? Are they reliable and reasonably priced?