Will.iam

Or if you are going dynon anyway the avidyne 540 would be a great unit as well and a drop in replacement if you have a garmin 530.

If 65% power then best power (fastest speed ) would be just rich of peak egt which would be the lowest margin from the red box. Peak would be slower and lop would be slower but cleanest running. Where LOP really shines is running power higher than 65% as historically before finding out it was balanced fuel flow, ROP was the only way to get there without shortening engine life. Now with balanced fuel flow you can enjoy the higher HP settings with a cleaner engine dictated only by how closely the injectors peak together and how much air you can squeeze through compared to fuel. If too far LOP the flame front is so slow that the exhaust valve will be opening while the mixture is still burning and thus your egt temps can exceed your tit temp limit.

When you say spin the engine, do you mean by hand or run the starter or start the engine and then shut it down after a few seconds?

Maybe invest in an oxygen concentrator? I got inogen G5 used for $1200. I start breathing on that right after takeoff and it is good til 18k on one person. If i have a second person they claim it would be good to 14k. At least that way you already lowered your nitrogen levels and have not used any of your ships O2 until the inogen can’t keep up and if you had a malfunction of main ship O2 you could get on the inogen at 18k or lower to keep your wits about you as you came down to safer altitudes if you had a passenger with you. Maybe an option for you?

Mike busch in his turbo 310 doesn’t even know how far lop he leans to. He quickly pulls the mixture to roughness then enriches until smooth and that is his deepest lop fuel flow. Then he slowly enriches until he hits ether TIT or a cylinder temp reaches 380 and that is as rich as he will go on the lop side. His point is if you get into the red box area at high power settings it will drive your cht above 400 and at the ada engine test lab in OK they would operate an engibe full power at 50 ROP the absolute worse place to run your engine but it doesn’t instantly start deteriorating in fact only once they saw the CHT go past 420 there would be detonation starting and damage. So if you keep your cht below 400 you should be safe from detonation and 380 or below will extend cylinder life. Bottom line don’t allow a cht to climb past 400 when operating at high power settings lop. And if you are below 65% power i doubt you would get above 400 cht at any mixture setting unless you had bad baffling cooling issues or was climbing to steeply and not enough cooling airflow. But if that is the case you probably are seeing that at full rich power takeoffs too.

I wonder what that AME would say about mountain climbers that spend a week at 15,000ft base camp unpressurized and then climb to 29,000ft for hours on end? It’s not the altitude that causes the bends but the rate of change that is the issue. Also if you pre-breathe oxygen at lower altitudes before you climb your body will displace more of the nitrogen that is in your body which is the gas that gives you the bends. That’s really all the dive chamber is doing is putting you under more pressure to get the nitrogen bubbles to reabsorb into your blood and then allow the nitrogen to off gas out your lungs. This is facilitated by breathing oxygen while in the pressurized chamber thus helping to displace the nitrogen levels in your body. By breathing oxygen down low before you climb is better than putting the oxygen on right before you leave 12,500ft as by then the nitrogen might already be starting to come out of the blood in your body than out your lungs depending on how quick you are climbing.

I’m surprised you got hull insurance without a checkout. I had 10k hours too but for full coverage insurance wanted 2 hours with a cfi. Luckily a neighbor of mine that is also an airline pilot had the qualifications and jumpseated out where i was waiting after my funds had cleared and the previous owner handed me the keys. And we combined the ferry flight home with the instruction so i had my 2 hours by the time we landed at our home field.

I have yet to see an ad with fltplango. They make their money on fleet management of 5 planes or more which is not ever going to be me.

Fltplango is another free efb. Yes much more clunky than foreflight and garminpilot but the only other software i know that will communicate with a gtx345 via bluetooth and display tcas traffic and get wx from ads-b.

Can’t get a photo to upload but the dataplate is: Aerotec Prestolite MHJ-4003 24 volts.

Aaaah I’m snake bite! Just replaced my starter with a remanufactured stater and did not get 4 starts before it quit!!! Tried banging on the starter and that didn’t work but when an A&P verified starter was getting 25 volts at the terminal, he had me put the ignition to start and while i held it there he banged on the starter and started working! Had no idea that was an option so if you can find someone to hold the ignition to start while you tap on the stater you can maybe get another start out of it. We put the top cowl back on and crossed our fingers and it started up. I flew it directly back to the shop and when i shut it down tried to start the engine and it was already back at the dead spot. Of course still under warranty but not labor which i think for an item that lasted less than a week and 4 starts labor should be covered. Here is the data plate for a data point on starters.

I have had my surefly for little over 3 years and had put over 250 hours on it when it quit. Not a good reliability record. I had noticed an electrical noise on my radios about 6 months ago that when I did an in flight mag check and turned off the surefly the noise would go away. This got progressively worse to the point on some frequencies I would have to turn off the surefly just to understand ATC. Out of annual my A&P could not find anything wrong with spark plugs or spark plug wires or p-lead or ignition switch. After the surefly failed I sent it in and surefly inspected it and said they found an internal failure of their coil they had not seen before and that even though my surefly was out of warranty, they replaced it free of charge with a refurbished unit. I asked if the failure was heat induced as I put the surefly on the right side mag location as it is much harder to get to as there is the inter cooler next to it and I wondered if the heat from that had any effect, but surefly said they did not see any heat related issues with my unit. My unit was revision D and my refurbished unit is revision H. I test flew it today and then made a 2 hour trip with no issues except I do hear a faint more static noise on my radios when running on surefly compared to running on just the magneto. Because I had this issue I’m not sure if the slight noise was there on my original surefly when it was first installed as it is very faint but it is enough that I can tell the mag is more quiet on the radio than when running on the surefly. Here is to hoping this one goes for 2000 hours. So if you start getting loud radio noise from your surefly it might be an early indication of the unit is about to fail. As a question to other surefly users, do you hear any noise increase that you can tell when you turn off your surefly compared to when you turn off your mag? P.s. the electrical check surefly has you do with connecting a 9volt battery to the surefly passed both the timing led and the flash of the led for dip switch settings. They honestly thought it was not an issue with Bos itself and thought more of a power issue or grounding issue as it passed the LED test. They said you can send in the box but if there is nothing wrong with it they would charge a $200 service fee. So it was a risk to send it in but I felt like after verifying the box was getting 24volts at terminal and that the radio noise had stopped when the surefly quit working it was worth the gamble to me to send it in.

Yes you are correct. I miss that.

Interesting, I see 145kias at pattern alt 2k feet 160kias at 12,5k feet and 185kias at 22k feet all on the same 10.4 gallons per hour.

Also extremely important to make sure you have no air induction leaks. When I first got my gami injectors I did not realize I had a small induction leak on #3 cylinder and when I fixed that then my number #3 cylinder was outside .5 spread and I had to get a replacement gami injector. This was maddening as the air leak didn’t really show itself at low altitudes but the higher you go the more the turbo works and the bigger the pressure differential from ambient and that air leak would in fact make that cylinder richer which when flying lop would mean that cylinder would creep closer to peak as I would fly higher and thus the cht on the cylinder would rise up especially with the thinner air at higher altitude. So to save you some frustration make sure you have no upper deck air leaks before you send that data to gami. Garbage in gets you garbage out.