PhateX1337

Correct, saw it just outside Lexington. I had to do a triple take and even then still look up the tail number to confirm my eyes…a M22 in the wild!

I saw this at 27K a few months back - I couldn’t believe my eyes, only ever seen pictures of one or two on MS. Made me dream of owning one and getting into top shape…

Jason - I have a M20M based out of Cincinnati, shoot me a PM and we can meet up.

Out of curiosity, when you say you were looking under the wing for a leak, do you mean overflow out the drain hole, or truly a leak/weep from some seals? Assuming the former, but I'm working through an issue more related to the latter, so just curious.

So @LANCECASPER the piper part you listed works for our Bravos? I may just do the same order now and hope you never need it approach too … markup seems crazy

Thanks. I’m not familiar with the sniffle valve but would make sense. Just curious more than anything. As for the leak - yeah I’m wondering where it starts from too. I feared it may be new. Frustrating with it just resealed. 4.5 hours or so to Weep No More.

Couple more follow up questions as I keep learning the Bravo & systems ... What's the pictured drain tube here? Comes out roughly in line with the gear from the belly? Noticed in left wheel well today a potential fuel leak ... honestly not sure if it was like this when I got it or if it's new, so I cleaned it up as best I could and will monitor. Left wing was resealed by Weep No More in Wilmar in Jan of 2019, so I'd be surprised if it's already that leaking.... Is it the seam underneath the rivets likely, or something else leaking would you suspect? Any suggestions how best to monitor? What best removes fuel stains so I can clearly see if they come back? I tried some SD20 but it leaves blue staining still...

I did mine for my new to me Bravo with Joe at Cole Aviation in north Georgia (I’m also based in Ohio - quick 1.5 hour flight). Great guy and great shop - very good communication and thoroughness. Will definitely go back

I agree wholeheartedly. Joe just took fantastic care of me on a big annual after I was up a creek without a paddle due to AGL ownership change. I was very impressed with his honesty and transparency and communication. I’ll definitely be going back.

Removed from my Bravo for LED upgrades, everything in working order when removed - $800 for everything together. Happy to break up if desired, let me know.

Glad to hear everything went well on the trip home & glad it's staying in the MS family. Have fun!!

SOLD I have two Champion 48103 filters and thanks to my recent change in aircraft, no longer need them, but find myself needing 48110 (Tempest or Champion) filters. Anyone have any they don't need/would want to trade for? Otherwise, if no one has any to trade in the next few days - happy to sell on to MooneySpace at 35 + shipping - just recouping what I paid for them, not trying to gouge.

Sold - congrats to the new owner and hopefully involved here to learn a lot!

It was installed by the Mooney factory directly, so never was in another plane - just custom fit to this plane! But yes using the modern Ovation style of the time.

Got it - thanks both!

Bringing this thread back to life to ask a specific question about this point from the original post. Per the above, it seems logical to really focus on getting GAMIs dialed in for a particular setting. I like to fly my new Bravo at 29"/2400 as well, but that's 75% power - per Savvy and GAMI, the GAMI spread test should be done at 65% power or lower. Is it okay to do the GAMI spread at 29"/2400 as you're just transiting the red box, or should it be avoided? I'm struggling to see how you can solve for both constraints here - staying below 65% but also optimizing for a standard cruise "sweet-spot" Also - what's the best altitude to do the spread test at? Savvy suggest an ambient pressure closest to your MP setting, but that seems very low. For example, if doing the test at 65% - 26"/2400RPM, that would be ~4000ft AGL (i.e. ~29.92 less 1" per 1000ft of elevation = 4000ft for 4")? Thanks!

We were one of the M20Ts as well - was on final into KRIL at that time. Good to see the fleet being exercised!

FIKI Bravo! Loving it already - had it in CO already...don't think I can ever not have a Turbo again.

Going to prebuy next week - shops are all backed up these days!

Have any of you done this pre-cooling using a window unit that you just duct the air from the unit into the cabin? Any suggested units? I hadn't thought of that - may have to try it, through the pilots window or something maybe...

It’s under contract but still pending prebuy, will update this when sold!

Thanks - the boost pump needs to be rebuilt, or just the drain? Any recommended shops that do that?

I don't - there is another thread here that debates if it's needed or not. The pump runs every hour and puts fresh dry air into the engine, I figure the oil filler method is still getting similar levels of dry air into the engine, albeit without the same level of seal as if you did it through the breather tube. I would never plug the breather - would always be afraid I'd forget that in preflight (especially trying to block the ice hole somehow...)

Thanks Rick! I actually had put my Engine Saver through the oil filler tube in my prior J as well, so I may just keep doing that. I 3D printed a screw on cap with a hole in it that the breather tube passes through, works pretty well from what I can tell. And good to know on the gascolator - going in for Annual in August so I'll add it to the list.

Getting to know my new Bravo ... two questions for this esteemed group: I'm assuming the tube pictured below leaving the cowling is the breather tube? It's on the right (compared to left in my J) and doesn't appear to have ice holes, but I don't see any other tubes leaving the cowling at all (no vacuum system, so no vacuum tubes leaving). Trying to confirm that's right for the engine saver to be put into between flights. Gascolator seems to have a slow drip ... maybe once every 30 seconds or so. Tried reseating the part you pull to sample multiple times, but it doesn't seem to fix it. There is also a lot of friction to pull & put it back in place from the cabin - assuming that may be a sign it needs to be rebuilt/at least have some seals replaced? Or would this leak be from something else altogether? Thanks!