RDuplechin

It also annoys me greatly that someone would pay to overhaul an engine and then put a 400 hour mag back on it. Being thrifty is a virtue...being cheap is a liability.

See image below. Yes intake pushrod bent. Exhaust pushrod tip broke off. Exhaust rocker arm wallowed out.

No engine monitor...it was to be installed at annual.

I recently had two pushrods fail on the same flight. No one is sure exactly why. I throw it out to the group to see if anyone has had a similar experience. I was flying my 65E to annual in central TX. The flight was to be about 1+15. I was at 7500’ leaned 50 ROP and the engine was smooth as a sewing machine. I’ve had the airplane a year and the engine has roughly 170 hours on it. 40 to 45 of those hours are mine with no issues and good mag checks on every flight. About 50 minutes into the flight I get a violent vibration like I just lost a cylinder. All temps and pressures are good. No visible fluids on the windscreen. I glance at ForeFlight and there is not a single spot of magenta in my glide ring if the engine dies. I start troubleshooting. I’m still on the same fuel tank but I switch anyway. I work mixture, rpm, etc to see if any of that helps. Admittedly, I did not cycle through the mags. I reached for the key and then just stopped. A rough running engine seemed like a better alternative to a non-running engine with no airport within glide range. For about 30 seconds I thought seriously about trying to make my destination since I’m a short distance and I know there is maintenance. Then I had a vision of all the guys I served with shaking their heads at my wake saying, man he knew better than that! The closest airport was about an 8 minute flight off my right wing. I turned to it with about a 400 fpm decent and a worsening vibration. I never heard the backfiring but it was heard from the ground, I’m told. The noise cancelling headsets block that out pretty well too apparently. I called one of the three airplanes doing pattern work and asked if there was maintenance at the field. He said there was and he made a phone call for me to alert a mechanic to meet me. I made it to the field still about 3000’ AGL (intentionally) and then spiraled down to land. The engine quit taxing to the ramp and we had to push it into the hangar. It would not restart. In summary, compression was fine, plugs looked OK. Left mag failed. I’ll deviate at this point to say that 80% of my time is in turbine engines but I thought the whole point of dual mags was that if one failed the other kept the engine running. That most assuredly was not what I would describe happened to me. A logbook check revealed the mag would have been changed at annual anyway. It was past 500 hours. After the overhauled mag goes on, the engine won’t start. Now the doghouse gets removed where it is found the #4 intake pushrod and tube is shaped like a banana. Thankfully, it didn’t punch a hole in the tube and blow all the oil out. Off comes the jug to Inspect for further damage. The piston and valves are fine. No corrosion and the cam and lifters are fine. But they do find the exhaust pushrod is broken and the exhaust rocker arm pocket (where the rod end goes in) is wallowed out. All that is fixed but the question remains...Why? I’ve involved 4 different mechanics and no one has has a good idea of what failed first and in what sequence. One theory was I don’t lean aggressively enough on the ground and a valve stuck. The problem is I do lean until the engine stumbles while on the ground and we checked all the valves and valve guides. All are clean and not bent. Another theory is that the mag failed first and it threw the timing off so badly that combustion alone drove the intake valve back up against the pushrod bending it. A yet a third theory is the exhaust valve just broke and put the whole valve train in a bind bending the intake side. The bottom line is it is supposedly fixed, I have a new mag, and the airplane made it the last few miles into annual. I’ll get my popcorn now and standby. Seriously, if anyone has heard of anything like this and can advise on other possibilities, please let me know. All I know is I’m 3K lighter and still not confident that the root cause has been addressed. I’m flying her to Montana in September and she is not an impressive performer on 3 cylinders over flat ground...I’d rather not repeat over the mountains. Thanks for any thoughts. I have pictures if anyone is curious

Carrollton, huh? Where are you going to park that thing?

I am searching for the overhead white dome light for a 65 20E. My frosted glass lens is broken but also the small black switch, so Imthink I need to replace the entire unit. I can’t find one for sale new anywhere so I’m on an Easter egg hunt of salvage yards and airplane forums. If you can help or advise....thanks.

I’m not understanding how these are different from stock gear doors. How are they different/better?

These are great. I have had a set on my 65 E for a year now and love them. They fit really nice on those flat wing tips, too. Highly recommend running a wire between the two units so the strobes fire in synch with each other.

Thanks for the tip on Jeev Old Guy. I’m reaching out to him now.

I’ve got the Aspen 1000 Pro already but it is not yet installed. I’ve gone around and around about selecting the IFR GPS. Garmin annoys me, frankly, with their proprietary/mercenary decisions on not interfacing with other brands. Neither Garmin nor TruTrak will get their act together and support the 20E with an A/P. We have been next quartered and next yeared to death. So, if I want anything new in the near term I’m looking at an Stec 30. I’m told the newer Garmin GPS devices don’t like the Stecs at all and there is some doubt as to whether the Garmin 175 will even work with Aspen. Some say yes, some say no....or you have to buy some other multi thousand dollar widget to make your other multi thousand dollar boxes talk to each other. I refuse to be extorted by Garmin. Some say they are the best but maybe that’s because they have muscled everyone else out of the market. For that kind of money I shouldn’t feel like I’m buying a product simply because Garmin says so. Sorry...off the soap box now. My long term choice is a Aspen with an Avidyne 440 and an EDM 900. If TruTrak ever gets it act together I’ll buy an A/P from them. If I get tired of waiting, I guess I’ll get an Stec. The Garmin 795 I have came with airplane. I like it.....except for the fact that I can’t display traffic because it won’t accept data from my Sentry. Again, if you want to play with Garmin, you can’t have any other friends. So, I’m just working through developing a timeline that makes sense for my desired upgrades.

Good points. I had not considered the legality of what you have to have to install an Aspen. I guess I was just thinking about would these devices connect and not should these devices connect. I’m trying to figure out if there is a way to take this upgrade in two logical steps and not gut my airplane and wallet all at once. You know...20K this year and 20K next year as opposed to waiting to do 40K next year. Maybe EDM and auto pilot this year....but then again I don’t like any of the auto pilots I currently have to choose from. Maybe just the EDM this year.

Hi Everyone, I’m in the process of updating avionics. My financial need requires that I take two bites while eating this elephant. First, is I have an Aspen 1000 Pro with ACU and an EDM 900 going in now. The panel mount GPS and auto pilot will have to wait a year. I have a Garmin 795 that came mounted in the airplane. So, here are the questions...will the Aspen accept data from the Garmin 795? (Obviously not for IFR purposes). If it will my plan is to have the 795 as a temporary GPS source along with the vor/loc/ils data from my kx155. Anybody see a problem with that as an interim set up until I get a panel mount next year? Question 2...will the EDM 900 accept data from the Garmin 795 to calculate fuel required and any of the other stuff it needs a GPS for? Thanks.

Thanks for the reply Wes. I was looking at the Garmin system but if I understand correctly their engineering philosophy is that they only want to work and play with other Garmin items. If you have Aspen or Avidyne you are SOL. Would you say this is accurate? I’ve sort of ruled out the Garmin AP for that reason.

Hi Everyone, My airplane’s original PC system was removed before I bought it last year. I believe that everything was removed at that time so let’s assume I’m starting from scratch. I’m fully aware that the consensus will likely be that the best way to get an autopilot in a 20E is to “buy an airplane that already has one.” So, let’s just get it out of the way and say I’m stubborn so I’m looking for the best way to get an A/P in THIS airplane. Other than a Century 1 or an Stec 20/30, do I have any viable options? Are any other systems allowed in this aircraft? A new Stec 30 is 12 plus install. That might be necessary but I wanted to explore the used market first. Does anyone have a legacy system for sale...complete or nearly so...that would work in my airplane? Thank you.

Do you still have this available?

I have been looking at a fire retardant spray on aircraft spruce. Inspecta-shield. It appears to only work on absorbent items like fabrics, backings, carpet, etc. I’m not certain of that however. Does anyone know of a product that works on vinyl? Thanks, Rick

Thanks everyone. I called Vantage Plane Plastics. They have this part number but it seems to be from a different model aircraft. It covers the entire end of the wheel housing instead of just the corner. For those of you that need this part I think it would work if you are willing to cut away the excess you don’t need. That was my plan B. I then called LASAR and they had the smaller one I needed for my airplane...the last one they say. It wasn’t cheap but it is brand new and I’ll be happy if I can just move the indicators over, attach the cable, and screw it in. I’ve had very good luck doing MEK repairs on the other plastic parts in the airplane but this piece was just too brittle and in too much of a high traffic area to last.

Hi Everyone, I have the plastic housing that holds the trim and flap indicators that I need to replace. It had several fairly minor cracks that I repaired and repainted. I looked great but was obviously very brittle. My mechanic somehow bumped it and it exploded into shards. I suppose I could use it as a pattern and make something out of fiberglass but that sounds like such a beat down. I looked at the Vantage Plane Plastics website and did an internet search for what I think is the correct part number 130103-9 ( or possibly 740020-501) but I’m not coming up with anything. Has anyone had this issue and what is the best solution? Thanks, Rick

I have a video of operation both up and down I can send you. The reason I’m keying in on the geometry is that with the cable disconnected the step is so free it falls out and can easily be pushed all the way up with one finger. With the cable attached it binds the last 6 inches going up. It is a slight bind that isn’t there with the cable unattached. Send me your e-mail and I’ll send you the videos if you like.

Rob here is an update. The nav and strobes are independently grounded in the wing. I ran it up today and the gauges were rock steady...not a flicker. I love intermittent electrical gremlins. I pulled the step completely out. I scraped off 55 years of varnish and crud. It is better but still sticks. After further analysis I really think the upper attaching point needs to move up just a little. It appears to pull the strut into a bind at the very top of travel. I didn’t notice it before. More to follow after I do that...thanks.

Robert regarding the step it is a hard stick about 5 inches from full up. The motor eventually stops running. Slapping or jiggling the step doesn’t do it. A gentle pull from above or kick from below gets it moving the rest of the way.

Hi Rob, Thanks for the reply. I had an extra switch and extra space so I had him give the step its own switch. I’m not sure how he grounded the strobes but I will ask him. I didn’t think to try the strobes off to see if I still have the bouncing needles...but I will try that tomorrow. It’s a Whelan LED Nav/Strobe. I have the Nav and Strobe on seperate switches since my Tail Beacon ADS-B is in the Nav. I think all of that is isolated from the gauge cluster but I’m not certain of that. The step works great coming down...I’m still working on the up. It sticks about 5 inches from the full up. I used the Tri-flow you suggested and it is smoother. I’m planning on pulling the step completely out to ensure nothing is burred or bent on the step shaft or the channel it slides in. More to follow. Thanks, Rick

I’ve got 2 issues with my 65 M20E that are possibly related. First, my left fuel sending unit was seeping and my A&P resealed it. Since the repair my fuel gauge is stuck at about 1/4 tank indication. Is there something that the A&P could have done to cause this or is it possible that this is a coincidence? My A&P also added LED Nav Strobes and an electric step STC. Since then 5 of the 6 gauges (L & R fuel, CHT, Ammeter, Oil Temp) in my cluster 22-166-09 have twitchy flickering needles. Is there a common power supply or common ground that could account for these bouncing needles? I’m wondering if there is something the A&P could have done while running wires and installing switches in the panel that could account for the issue with the cluster...or is it another coincidence? I’m not big on coincidence and now I’m being asked to believe in two. Thoughts? Thanks.

I know the part numbers are different but does anyone know if 66 20F seats can be used in a 65 20E? I want to add head rests (and shoulder harnesses) to my 65 20E. I have found a complete set of matching seats from a 66 20F with real good upholstery for sale. I think the front seats should go right in to my 65 without problem but the back seats concern me. My current back seat in the 65 20E is one solid back. The 66 20F back seat appears to have a split back that looks like two bucket seats. Does anyone know if I can make the swap? Or, does anyone know the best way to get high backs and/or head rests on to the front seats of my 65 20E? Thanks.