Hradec

Does anyone remember how much the short body smooth belly stc for the fiberglass panel was from LASAR? I finally need one already made the modifications to my plane to accept it. I called LASAR and they are in the process of having some faa approval for them to mfr them at their new location. They were not sure of the pricing yet. some numbers they mentioned were really really high. Does anyone recall what they paid and when? Thanks Glenn 64E putting it back together after spar cap and stub spar replacement

I will be closing my fuel tanks soon. I noticed old screws and new screws are not flush when installed. I bought the screws at spruce. Stainless and equivalent part number of varying lengths because of different domenuts. Ms24693c271 Sit almost .030" high. Anyone have a screw part number or supplier/mfr with proper size heads? Thanks Glenn 1964 m20e

Winter slowed me down. Too cold in the hangar. Aft stub spar completely installed. Mow I have left upper soar cap corrosion. In process of removing tank sealant al spar cap. Hope to make big progress when wx gets better.

The tried and true polysulfied sealants are not perfect but it it can be removed with chemicals that dont harm the aluminum, easy to repair. Can be scraped off. Urethane is great until you need to do some structure work, then you are screwed!

I had to pull the top skin to do the aft stub spar and upper spar cap. A big problem with the urethane is I can't buck the rivets with the urethane in place. There is so much of the stuff in places that I think it is reducing fuel capacity.

I got the plane cheap, and my labor is even cheaper. Just got my pilots license last year. I have my a&p and recently got my ia. Never worked in ga so this is quite the adventure for me. I have met some amazing people along the way. A guy that works at a well reqarded shop as a structure guy has been giving me invaluable tips along the way. One day she will fly. I thing 2-3 yrs, still have my day job. Glenn

Didnt look into co2 blasting. New wing would be buying someone else's troubles. Wings are really long, difficult to transport. I used a heat gun and wooden shims to get the skin off. I will attempt gentle heat from the heat gun to get enough cleaned so I can replace spar cap and rivet the skin back on. Was considering not removing all the polyurethane. I will see how it goes.

Finally got the top skin off. Used a heat gun, long wooden carpenters shims, small hammer, and a razor knife. I feel sorry for anyone that has this stc done to their aircraft(polyurethane coating in the fuel tank). I am sure it's a bear of a job with the correct sealant. Now on to replacing the upper spar cap. Aft stub spar is in.

In the process of going through my very neglected 64 m20e. Trying to figure out what lube to put on the flight control walking beam and flap shaft needle bearings. The lube on them is old and hard, rollers weren't moving. Cleaned with mineral spirits, moving now, but they need grease. Any recommendation on something that wont dry out and get hard over time? I was thinking aeroshell 22? Just wanted to add these are the components mounted on the aft spar. Thanks, Glenn

Finding a wing and replacing it is a big job. Doing my airplane on a budget. Bought it really really cheap. Thought it just needed a stub spar, now it needs an upper spar cap. Parts are cheap and my labor is even cheaper. Lots of sweat equity. Only problem is finding a good reliable bucking partner. I have lots to do on the rest of the aircraft. Short cut annuals last several yrs by previous owner. Lots of catching up to do. You save no money getting a pencil whip annual. All of the corrosion could have been caught several yrs ago. Buyinga flying airplane for 60-80k just isnt my style. Bleeding money over many yrs is ;-)

Just a friendly update, my aft stub is almost completely installed. Found some more corrosion on left and right inboard flap brackets. Also found some corrosion on a spar cap. Slow and steady. Got a good start on resurecting this 64e, long way to go. Glenn

I am interested in a set for my 64 m20e

It's interesting you mention high pressure water. One guy I spoke to that was involved in removing this urethane system for airforce 707aircraft. He said they are using a 15,000 psi pressure washer and in areas they cant use that the mechanically/manually remove it. I guess gov contractors have to adhere to strict epa osha's rules so no harsh chemicals. By the way , they are not relocating with urethane after the heavy 707 check, they are going back with regular polysulfied. The guy I spoke to said to just remove what I need to make my repair, you can feather the new polysulfied sealant over the urethane if you rough it up and clean with acetone. Any opinions on this? Thanks to all involved in this thread. Glenn

I would like to experience a mooney myself, I have a fixer upper project at KLOT. Havent flown in a mooney since 91 when I was in the back seat for a training flight at ERAU.

I recently left a msg with Paul at weep no more, I'm the guy doing major structural work and have the horrible urethane stc on my aircraft. Paul called me back, chatted with me for a long time and answered many technical question. If I have some tank work, I'm sending to him. He earned my business by returning my call and by Sharing his wealth of knowkedge. There is usually a cost savings in the long run by going with the best. G

A little update. A guy involved with the urethane stc reached out to someone that has dealt with servicing these urethane coatings. They got back to me and said denatured alcohol or skykleen gel. I have a sample sitting in a cup of denatured alcohol, no change to urethane. The other day I had put samples in acetone, paint stripper, and choke and carb cleaner. The only one that showed any results is the choke and carb cleaner. The auto zone cleaner lists the following ingredients Acetone,methanol, toluene, msds also lists methyl chloride if it is lot the non chlorinated variety. It softened the urethane, but as soon as it dries it becomes firm again. This is not going to work well because of the fumes, flammability, cold hangar, most of sealant I would like to remove is under the top skin. This thing is kicking my butt. Any ideas are welcome. Thanks Glenn

I ended up speaking with Mr Dodge. Has a guy that was working on this stuff, waiting for a response from his guy on what he used to remove the urethane. Sounds like the urethane was a great idea, very durable, but you were screwed if you ever had to remove it.

I contacted paul, he was really great. My call sent him down memory lane There was a 2 year period around 2000 where about 100 aircraft had their tanks resealed with the efc100 urethane stc. His process wont budge the material The urethrane is great until you need to remove it, then you are screwed! I called FFC. Apparently the military had its 707 aircraft use this system, it was great until it came time for removal during heavy inspection. They went back to the old school prc polysulfied sealant. Apparently the contractors had to follow strict environmental guidelines. The removed it with the combination of 15000 psi power washer and mechanically removing it with scrapers, it was a horrible job

You had the same stc applied to your tanks with the urethane?

No leaks, pulled the skin back to do an upper spar cap. I have to remove the stuff to rivet it back together, clean it up and reseal

Where do I get this stuff and is it safe for aluminum.

I called them, no answer. I called the company that holds the stc, it has been sold, but they were very familiar with the product, they still use it in the military. Their tech guy was suppose to call me on the removal process. No call yet. I put samples in mek, acetone, paint stripper and choke and carb cleaner. In almost 2 hrs soaking not much action.

HELP! I'm in the process of replacing my aft stub spar and now a top spar cap. The spar cap repair requires I open up the fueltank. I realized that my tank doesn't have the typical polysulfied sealant. It had an stc in 2002 to install a urethane coating EFC100. How do I remove this stuff? Mechanically?with chemicals? Dynamite? I did some research apparently it is tough stuff and used in some military aircraft fuel tanks. The coating is almost an inch thick in some areas. I am sure my fuel capacity is reduce by multiple gallons because if the thickness of the urethane.

Yes, yes, yes!!!! My drilling assistant is moving back to europe in the next couple of weeks. My wife and I took a weekend sheetmetal class last winter at the EAA museum. My wife is a great sport, but if we are to remain married, I prefer she not help me buck rivets. I'm an a&p for an airline, actual an avionics crew chief. Bucked a few rivets in school, spent a few weekends helping g a friend build an rv7. Any help by someone with more experience than me would be great. I'm at KLOT Lewis univ airport Thanks Glenn