Hradec

The imperfectness of the original polysulfied sealant is probably the whole reason they used it. Yes it may leak after 20 yrs, but if structure work needs to be done, solvents exist that will soften it to the point that plastic scrapers can remove it. The efc 100 polyurethane (at least in Mooney's) is permanent, making structure repair and service if not impossible, at least very impractical. From what I recall in all my info gathering and talking to all the players, a couple hundred mooneys were ruined.

Not long ago somebody contacted me when they took they Mooney to Fort Lauderdale to get their tanks redone. Unfortunately they had this efc100 in their tanks. I told him what I did and told is tank guy to contact me. Apparently 15,000 psi water jet is needed to remove this garbage. I was replacing my spar cap. I used a propane torch to heat a thick metal putty knife. The hot blade removed excess polyurethane where it was thick and needed to be removed to remove and install hiloks and rivets. A heat gun was also used along with a temp sense gun to not over heat the metal. I did no remove all of it, just where it was disturbed to facilitate structure repair. Before I came up with this technique, I disturbed the whole tank. I ended up coating the entire tank with the seskents and process called out in the mooneys manual. Plane might be test flown before the end of the year. Glenn

As my spar cap and aft stub spar replacement winds down on my 1964 m20e sn#311. I have a question about the clamps securing the aluminum brake line entering the mlg wheel well joggling through the lighting whole through the rib and connecting to the flex hose. My airplane has small steel clamps with no rubber cushion on the. Just some friction tape wrapped around the line where the clamp is. Is this original? There is even a spot in the belly where the brake lines run parallel, the sam clamp and friction tape is used. Do you have this on your old mooney. My friend with a 1980 m20j has clamps with rubber cushions. What do you have, pictures welcome Ps Where the gadline connects to flex hose I have conventional rubber cushion clamps. Thanks Glenn

What are you going to use it for? If doing landing gear check I think the dial type is the best.

Bingo! Thanks, for the picture and confirmation it is correct. Part number anyone? The parts catalog for my year is really poor. Possible service bulletin for update? Thanks Glenn

Going through all the pushpull tubes and rod ends on my aircraft renovation project. The parts manual diagram is very poor for the nose gear door rod end. later models Parts catalog looks different. Is my part correct or is it completely wrong and as my friend said, a riding lawn mower rod end? Please share a pic of your rod end from same vintage mooney. Thanks Glenn 1964 m20e sn #311

I just place the fuselage back on the wings yesterday.

Does anyone remember how much the short body smooth belly stc for the fiberglass panel was from LASAR? I finally need one already made the modifications to my plane to accept it. I called LASAR and they are in the process of having some faa approval for them to mfr them at their new location. They were not sure of the pricing yet. some numbers they mentioned were really really high. Does anyone recall what they paid and when? Thanks Glenn 64E putting it back together after spar cap and stub spar replacement

I will be closing my fuel tanks soon. I noticed old screws and new screws are not flush when installed. I bought the screws at spruce. Stainless and equivalent part number of varying lengths because of different domenuts. Ms24693c271 Sit almost .030" high. Anyone have a screw part number or supplier/mfr with proper size heads? Thanks Glenn 1964 m20e

Winter slowed me down. Too cold in the hangar. Aft stub spar completely installed. Mow I have left upper soar cap corrosion. In process of removing tank sealant al spar cap. Hope to make big progress when wx gets better.

The tried and true polysulfied sealants are not perfect but it it can be removed with chemicals that dont harm the aluminum, easy to repair. Can be scraped off. Urethane is great until you need to do some structure work, then you are screwed!

I had to pull the top skin to do the aft stub spar and upper spar cap. A big problem with the urethane is I can't buck the rivets with the urethane in place. There is so much of the stuff in places that I think it is reducing fuel capacity.

I got the plane cheap, and my labor is even cheaper. Just got my pilots license last year. I have my a&p and recently got my ia. Never worked in ga so this is quite the adventure for me. I have met some amazing people along the way. A guy that works at a well reqarded shop as a structure guy has been giving me invaluable tips along the way. One day she will fly. I thing 2-3 yrs, still have my day job. Glenn

Didnt look into co2 blasting. New wing would be buying someone else's troubles. Wings are really long, difficult to transport. I used a heat gun and wooden shims to get the skin off. I will attempt gentle heat from the heat gun to get enough cleaned so I can replace spar cap and rivet the skin back on. Was considering not removing all the polyurethane. I will see how it goes.

Finally got the top skin off. Used a heat gun, long wooden carpenters shims, small hammer, and a razor knife. I feel sorry for anyone that has this stc done to their aircraft(polyurethane coating in the fuel tank). I am sure it's a bear of a job with the correct sealant. Now on to replacing the upper spar cap. Aft stub spar is in.

In the process of going through my very neglected 64 m20e. Trying to figure out what lube to put on the flight control walking beam and flap shaft needle bearings. The lube on them is old and hard, rollers weren't moving. Cleaned with mineral spirits, moving now, but they need grease. Any recommendation on something that wont dry out and get hard over time? I was thinking aeroshell 22? Just wanted to add these are the components mounted on the aft spar. Thanks, Glenn

Finding a wing and replacing it is a big job. Doing my airplane on a budget. Bought it really really cheap. Thought it just needed a stub spar, now it needs an upper spar cap. Parts are cheap and my labor is even cheaper. Lots of sweat equity. Only problem is finding a good reliable bucking partner. I have lots to do on the rest of the aircraft. Short cut annuals last several yrs by previous owner. Lots of catching up to do. You save no money getting a pencil whip annual. All of the corrosion could have been caught several yrs ago. Buyinga flying airplane for 60-80k just isnt my style. Bleeding money over many yrs is ;-)

Just a friendly update, my aft stub is almost completely installed. Found some more corrosion on left and right inboard flap brackets. Also found some corrosion on a spar cap. Slow and steady. Got a good start on resurecting this 64e, long way to go. Glenn

I am interested in a set for my 64 m20e

It's interesting you mention high pressure water. One guy I spoke to that was involved in removing this urethane system for airforce 707aircraft. He said they are using a 15,000 psi pressure washer and in areas they cant use that the mechanically/manually remove it. I guess gov contractors have to adhere to strict epa osha's rules so no harsh chemicals. By the way , they are not relocating with urethane after the heavy 707 check, they are going back with regular polysulfied. The guy I spoke to said to just remove what I need to make my repair, you can feather the new polysulfied sealant over the urethane if you rough it up and clean with acetone. Any opinions on this? Thanks to all involved in this thread. Glenn

I would like to experience a mooney myself, I have a fixer upper project at KLOT. Havent flown in a mooney since 91 when I was in the back seat for a training flight at ERAU.

I recently left a msg with Paul at weep no more, I'm the guy doing major structural work and have the horrible urethane stc on my aircraft. Paul called me back, chatted with me for a long time and answered many technical question. If I have some tank work, I'm sending to him. He earned my business by returning my call and by Sharing his wealth of knowkedge. There is usually a cost savings in the long run by going with the best. G

A little update. A guy involved with the urethane stc reached out to someone that has dealt with servicing these urethane coatings. They got back to me and said denatured alcohol or skykleen gel. I have a sample sitting in a cup of denatured alcohol, no change to urethane. The other day I had put samples in acetone, paint stripper, and choke and carb cleaner. The only one that showed any results is the choke and carb cleaner. The auto zone cleaner lists the following ingredients Acetone,methanol, toluene, msds also lists methyl chloride if it is lot the non chlorinated variety. It softened the urethane, but as soon as it dries it becomes firm again. This is not going to work well because of the fumes, flammability, cold hangar, most of sealant I would like to remove is under the top skin. This thing is kicking my butt. Any ideas are welcome. Thanks Glenn

I ended up speaking with Mr Dodge. Has a guy that was working on this stuff, waiting for a response from his guy on what he used to remove the urethane. Sounds like the urethane was a great idea, very durable, but you were screwed if you ever had to remove it.

I contacted paul, he was really great. My call sent him down memory lane There was a 2 year period around 2000 where about 100 aircraft had their tanks resealed with the efc100 urethane stc. His process wont budge the material The urethrane is great until you need to remove it, then you are screwed! I called FFC. Apparently the military had its 707 aircraft use this system, it was great until it came time for removal during heavy inspection. They went back to the old school prc polysulfied sealant. Apparently the contractors had to follow strict environmental guidelines. The removed it with the combination of 15000 psi power washer and mechanically removing it with scrapers, it was a horrible job