Rotorhead

Just curios, what was the thought with the Aspen, G5 and AV-30? G5 to get rid of vacuum and AV-20 for its 'other' capabilities besides artificial horizon??

@Jake35 ever come up with a solution to your problem?

Nice, appreciate the intel! Hope Tempe is good, I miss being out there...go Devils. -KC

Took a small plunge today and took #2 cylinder off. Have a great A&P of +57years experience to help and educate as we go along. Here's some piston pictures but I completely forgot to get the inside of the cylinder before he took it away. Needless to say, it was completely glazed over, very smooth with a definite line of where the piston stroke is. He's taking a dingle berry hone to it to de-glaze and get that cross hatching back. Going to be cleaning the piston as well. You can definitely see the carbon buildup and oily color on top too. The rings definitely had their fair share of carbon buildup too. New rings have been ordered and hopefully going to throw it back together sometime this week.

@A64Pilot so did it end up being just the cockpit switch??

@jetdriven bringing this back alive. Do you have any pictures of how they are flush and setup correctly? Mine just has a ton of washers stacked up to space them and not flush.

I tested for continuity and ground prior to "randomly" putting a test wire on to that post. New Lord mounts that connect to the ground strap are on back order unfortunately.

Well be damn I had no idea. May try out the lights once this ground issue is figured out. Appreciate the insight!

^^ Same. Kinda cool to watch when you do it after landing in -30*F air temp. BTW, anyone happen to check out my post above about the vernatherm line??

I've tried temporarily grounding the whole cluster gauge unit directly to the grounding panel with no real difference. I used one of the posts as circled and thought that would be a secure and solid grounding point. Am I missing something here?

Soooo...was the problem fixed...?

@Jsno Appreciate the insight, gonna take the cylinders off and see what we're really looking at. What was the turn around time on plating the cylinders?? Bad experience after not replacing the exhaust valves or something??

No real gain or loss on after doing the ring flush. It seemed like only #2 had a hydrolock that I could work through. Oil consumption still seems to be on par as before and oil temps may be *slightly* lower. Next move I believe is taking #2 cylinder first off and looking inside. See if cross hatching is still present and putting a new hone/ rings on. When replacing rings, after inspection is it typical just to replace all while in there or IRAN??

@KLRDMD yup, the Bravo would be cool if it came with more space. Classic dilemma of wanting faster, bigger, leaner gph with no more cost… I’m truly looking to trade the TKS equipped J for a TB, K model or Bo. I know that’s all a huge can of worm’s to open up.

@thinwing sounds about the same as how my mission was in North Dakota. Mountains were only an issue about 10% of the time but having non-Fiki TKS gave great insurance when needed. Now I’m down in Albuquerque NM where mountains are 90% of the time and icing around 10%. Really want to nab a turbo but I have a feeling I’ll really miss the TKS that other 10%.

Funny thing is you mention Jimmy since we spoke today actually. I ask the question because my J has TKS but go figure the guide doesn't give a value. I'm certainly not banking on TKS to make it worth a $200K plane, but curious minds wander... Specially if TKS is worthwhile to someone else who may have some type of TN J or K that wants the TKS more so than "power".

Pretty simple discussion starter. How much do you think TKS (non-fiki) adds in value to a Mooney? Obviously not looking to get the near $70K it costs to install back, just curious what the market values it at these days.

Hey all, Looking for genuine thoughts about this first world problem. I have a M20J (N913JN | 1981 MOONEY M20J 201 on Aircraft.com) that has been great for the past 3ish years bringing us across the country several times. I now live in Albuquerque NM where the higher DA is a concern and performance is sometimes lackluster in the J. (If I could Rayjay it I would!) I've always been very interested in the Socata Trinidad TB-20 for it's power output, greater payload capacity and roominess. I had originally gone with J because it kind of fell in my lap at the right time and place honestly. I've been talking with a couple of TB owners who are interested in trading. They appreciate the TKS (Non-FIKI) on my J over the payload and space of the TB. My engine is at about 1430SMOH while the TB's are near 200SMOH. I understand avionics being a major factor, but one of the trades has nearly identical systems so that's nearly a wash. My family is growing which as well is another reason for wanting some more cargo/ seat space. I know a lot of what goes into picking a place is the persons mission, but am I crazy for thinking about this trade?? -KC TB20_N62286_2022-1 clean.pdf

Anyone see any issues with my vernatherm? There's a line on the top conical part but it is not grooved or etched, just appears to be rubbing. Appears to be working correctly, extends at 178° but I didn't take measurements.

@Ragsf15e Bringing this oldy back. Did you happen to look into what 211 mentioned and if so, did it make an appreciable difference?

@A64Pilot I agree with some of the polishing. I wish the borescope had better resolution but it is what it is. In some pictures cross-hatching is still very evident at least on one of the cylinders. I believe it's been since 2007 since the MOH. It's been around the country but primarily in North Dakota until recently and in a climate controlled hangar at that. Same thing for here in ABQ. Oil Px regulator such as how 211 posted about. I don't have any pictures but I have the same issue where the holes aren't lining up. Is that on purpose..??

Well, while you're here check out my cylinders I just borescoped and let me know what your thoughts are. I'm doing this primarily because I've been experiencing higher oil consumption in the past +6 months of 1qt/3hrs. (Yikes) Only fill it to about 6qts and tend to change oil every 25-30hrs. No metal in the filter in the past 3 changes and oil analysis comes back normal for my 1430hr engine. I've also had abnormally high oil temps with low to normal CHT's. (Granted I live in ABQ but never seen oil nearly red line before). My initial thoughts are increased blow by due to frozen or broken oil rings hence the oil use/ higher temps. I just completed the oil control ring flush yesterday but haven't ran it yet. So, check out the pictures in the linked albums and let me know what your thoughts are. I believe I see a good amount of lead deposits on some of the cylinders and oil pulling as well. Below are the bottom spark plugs for reference too. Nothing crazy or out of the usual for residual oil from my perspective. https://photos.app.goo.gl/p4o59zXnJ8sN8smbA https://photos.app.goo.gl/wdjMyvKrDWE2V5wA6 https://photos.app.goo.gl/AXtSkn4HXR5t8Atr9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/pAVCbk2QWQgWpvoF9 In the meantime, I'm trying to pull the vernetherm to test if it's working correctly but it's being a real PITA. The return line from the oil cooler is getting in the way so seems like I'll have to pull that as well. I'm also trying to re-install the oil regulator so the bypass holes line up correctly but will need a new crush washer for that. (Mines the non-adjustable kinda adjustable with washer type.) Let me know what youses think! -KC

Yup, completely understand those factors and prime it on a schedule. Is there a way to offload it in the meantime in preparation of a trip?

Pretty easy question with a hopefully easy solution too. I have 2 gal of TKS onboard that's just sitting there and would rather have better W&B / performance while flying around in the high DA of Albuquerque. If I have to open the bottom panel then so be it, but thought I would ask some of the guru's here first. 81' M20J Thanks in advance.

Pretty easy question with a hopefully easy solution too. I have 2 gal of TKS onboard that's just sitting there and would rather have better W&B margins living in ABQ. Is there any way to drain/ offload some without opening panels? If the bottom panel does need to come off then so be it, but thought I would ask the guru's first. Thanks in advance.