NicoN

BTW: Does an lod analog A/P learn GPSS mode with a GI275 (provided we have a GMU11, GAD interface and OAT) ?

@David Lloyd: Do you have the install manual available? I think , that would be interesting to check out all the options

Hi Mooniacs, we have the chance to buy a used GNS430W. We already have a GNS430W hooked to a GI 206 and a KX155, hooked to a KI something CDI with GS. AFAIK, this DIsplay is not so easy to connect to a GNS430W as the GI 206 is. So, the idea is to go the expensive way and remove the DG, add a G5 or GI 275 and replace ADF and KX155 with a GNS430W I am not sure, if a G5 or GI 275 can show a second NAV-Source as a bearing pointer. With this feature, a GNS430W can easily replace a ADF. AFAIK, at least an Aspen can do exactly this. Show ONE Navsource (GPS or NAV) as HSI and 2 more as bearing pointers. Can a G5 do the same? And Gi 275? Of course, I would prefer a GI 275 (or 2 :-)

At least - I do not know anything about a previous repair nor a bird damage. This part looks as being fixed to the stabilizer and should not mov at all. I will try the trim movement

Yes, slowly. I see this since 2018. And the aircrfat is always hangared For me this part (a fairing?) is moving together with the fin.

Since I am new on this 1980 M20k, I noticed damge to this fiber glass part on the leadinge edge of the rudder fin. I am not sure if this parts really moves against the real rudder fin when using elevator trim. But, over the time the damage seems to get worse. Also, the metal of the fin seems t be affected Has someone seen this kind of damage/wear? What can I do? Sorry, but I cannot turn the pictures

Okay, thank you. It is ordered

Just a short question on Easter: How thick in outrer diameter is the pipe that holds the yoke in a Mooney? I am just in the process of ordering a RAM-Mount clamp for my M20K. Reason behind: An accident report was published where an aircraft suffered sever damage, because the A/P!!!! and the owner together decided to clamp a holder on the control column so it was blocked more or less in neutral position!!! So, pushing the elevator was not possible. Of course, we also have a removable clamp which could be mounted wrong, so I need a more solid solution which securely clamped in the correct position RAM-Mount offers "Torque RAil Mounts" in different sizes. Any recommendations? We are using the middle arm together with an X-Grip for iPad mini. All in size "B"

Thank you for your answer ...

Q1: Okay. I learned that the GI275 can drive old A/P, such as the Century 21. We also have a S_TEC 60 PSS for the ALT function. It does originally ALT HOLD and a VS mode (we do not talk about the GS mode now). Now, I saw a Video where someone demonstrated the GI 275 and was taling about an altitude bug. He said something that the GI 275 will give a "chirp" just before reaching the preselected ALT. So, does that imply that the GI 275 can "press" the ALT button on my S-TEC PSS in order to imitate an ALT preselect? Q2: Can GI 275 configured as an HSI also show bearing pointers? AFAIK the Aspen does it with 2 more additional sources aqs pointers and maybe even with an ADF

If you want to try to repair your power supply:

It is exactly for our clock.The clock is battery driven, but uit is always a lot of work to change it. I have to remove the DG to pass the clock through that hole.

Is there a hot wire (permanently 12V) available somewhere at the panel? As far as I understand the schematics there should be a hot wire at the master switch and the master switch actually is connecting the master solenoid to GND. Is this correct?

I spent the whole weekend trying to wire a LEMO-Socket on the RH side in aprallel to the exsiting PJ-sockets-I thin, this is the normal procedure I did this already on the LH side and it was easy. So should be on the RH side. The Headphone socket was easy - the headset gets power from the Lemo-Socket (coming from Radio-Master) and the headphones work - fine. But not for the MIC-part. This doesn't work. I have a white wire with MOoney-labeling on the ring-contact and an orange-white wire on the tip-contact. The white wire disappears to the center console, while the orange-white wire goes up on the right side. Maybe this goes to our intercom? No wire on the barrel (the housing of the PJ-socket) According to the manual for the Bose-socket, I wired the white wire (comiung from the Lemo-socket) together to the ring. The left side looks the same. The light-blue-white wire goes to the barrel. But then it runed out, that COM1 is transmitting permanently (it is a GNS430W), while COM2 starts transmittting only with pressing the MIC-button. Any ideas? Maybe my brain is frozen.

Fantastic restoration result! We have the same AI and the clock face looks the same after 40 years. I remember, i read something that normally the clock face itself might not be the real problem, but dirt on the clock face and on the glass. I also was told, that you can remove the glass and clean all. But how? Has someone opened this kind of AI or different ones? From the picture it seems that there is a kind of a spring which hold the glass in place. I found thiis tool: https://www.siebert.aero/products/Katalog/Flugzeugbau-ausrstung/Bordinstrumente/Instrumentenzubehr/Spezialschlssel-fr-Instrumentenglser.html

Has someone removed the glass of the AI for cleaning? AFAIK it is not sealed

Just a question: We have 3 flasher boxes in our M20K and GND seems to be the aircraft structure. It works fine after I overhauled 2 of the flasher boxes with new sets of capacitors. But - using an ANR headset (first was a Bose A20), i can hear a low volume Wheeping sound synchronized with the flashes. It can be heard only with low RPM, in cruise flight I almost cannot hear that sound. on chrsitmas, I added a ANR headset based on a Bose QC25. The ANR quality is far beyound the A20!, but the wheeping sound is now clearly audible! Is this a typical problem of the flasher boxes? Can I get rid of it by changing to LED flashers?

@carusoam: The drawing shows parts and dimensions for the 3" extension. Is there also a drawing with exact dimensions available for the 1,5" version? I am not sure, if we simply can take over the dimensions

@carusoam: Thank. That is exact what I am looking for.

@caru

Does anybody have the drawings? Some angels gave the drawings to me about a year ago. But, I cannot find the file anymore, I'm afraid

Great work! I tried myself to do it using a schematic software. I spent many hours and finally gave up because of the same loops I can see in your layout :-) I chose the brute force method and changed all capacitirs

We can buy a used GNS430W as a supplement/replacement for our KX155. The KX155 has a KI204 connected and can drive our venerable Century 21/STEC 60PSS We already have a GNS430W together with GI106 working fine as GPSNAVCOM #1. For now, the KI204 should stay and should be connected to the 2nd GSN430W. Later on we want to upgrade more but not for now I got varying information from different sources whether this works or not. 1. We received a proposal that says, the KI204 is NOT compatible with the GNS430W; therefore they want us to sell a GI106 or G5 2. According to the installation manual for GNS430W, a KI204 is among the CDI models which can be connected (p.199) 3. I found an opionion that a KI204 can be connected, but it will display only the VLOC and GS ( also flags); as long as you switch your GNS to GPS it will show only flags, needles centered and useless 3a. some rumours say that the CDi is not only a stupid voltmeter where a voltage pulls the needle a bit to the left or right and some other signals remove the flags or show to/FROM 4. another opinion I found, says that the KI204 is compatible and will also show a valid GPS CDI. but you need external signal lamps telling you if the KI204 is currently running on VLOC or GPS Has someone real life experience? Thank you

Thank you for clarification. We have a natural number of 2 magnetos in our M20K. A subset of 1 Magneto stopped working properly.To be precise: 1 Quantum of sparks became irreal. As a SureFly ignition costs only slightly more than a imaginary overhauled magneto. So, the question was: could this be the oppoertunity to switch to a technology which is advertised as being working for infinite time. The answer is NO. by co-owners wanted to stay conservative with natural number of 2 magnetos. Not 1, not 3 - just 2! I am afraid to tell you, that the bill for this project has definitely real numbers :-((((

Sorry to ask: what is a “Pi-Plane”. ?