NicoN

Okay, thank you again fo rall the comments. Yesterday, I tried the M20Doc-method: I had two attempts of cold starts with 10hour parking between them. So, that defintitely is not much to have a real opinion. - Mixture and throttle wide-open - Use the HIGH-Boost-pump until you see FF. I was really surprised about the fast an massive rising FF of over 12gph or more and let go the button immediately. - Throttle back to 1/4" above ilde - Engine started, but still needed some more priming. Next time, I was not that shy and let the HIGH-Boost do its job just about a second longer. Indeed, I had the best engine start ever. WIth an engine that run with constant ~ 1200RPM, no stumbling, no additional priming . nothing. The next time, I will use the jlunseth-method. Hope, I have enough hands to handle anything

I am a Little confused with These in Detail different methods. But they seem to have in common the philosophy that a cold engine has empty fuel lines when it Comes cold out of the Hangar. Let me try to summarize: Priming the engine provides fuel "spray" for the cylinders but only enough for the first 2-3 seconds. Then the "prime" fuel is away and the engine driven pump is still not ready delivering fuel as it should, yet. Right? That's the time, the engine starts dying from fuel starvation and you have bring fuel to the engine with different methods. One method (POH) is giving shots with the primer. At some Point the engine gets fuel the normal way and also from the primer -> massive RPM rise follows. That is what I want to avoid. Method two (M20doc) is similar to the method I learnt to crank an Lyco IO-360: Except I was told "wait 6-10sec for the injected fuel to evenly spread around". Hope this works without Problems. Method 3 seems to do the same as Method one, except that the shots come from the High boost pump not from the primer - correct? In an earlier post which deals especially with hot-start-situations there was emphasized that it is very important to run the low-boost pump with throttle and mixture closed to replace hot, vaporized fuel with cold fresh fuel. Is this also a way to fill the lines when cold ? Next question: For the Lyco IO-360 is was told, never to touch the fuel pump again after the engine has been running once - even for a short time. And also that it is much better to go for a coffee and wait 20 Minutes when the engine failed to start versus trying to crank again and again. Please excuse all my stupid questions, but the M20K with ist TSIO360 is pretty new for me and there seems not to be on single method

Okay, thank you. i will give all the methods a try.

I am pretty new to Mooneys and also the TSIO-360. To be honest: I did not (yet) have any problems starting the engine. Also , I did not a hot start situation. Hot starting techniques were discussed in an earlier thread. my problem is definitely not bringing my engine into life. It's simply the question if there is a method to safely start the engine without a more or less temporary RPM-increase. I follow strictly the POH, which says: - Mixture full rich - Throttle ~ 1/4inch - Priming 3-5 seconds depending on OAT - crank the engine immediately My experience is, that the engine fires always immediately, but then tries to die again. Increasing the priming to 5-7 seconds lowers the risk of the engine dying again, but I still need to intermittently keep priming after the engine has fired first. With this method, I never needed a second crank so far. In the consequence I have the choice to encounter the engine dying or seeing a massive RPM-increase about 5 seconds after the engine has fired. Of course, I pull back the throttle immediately to IDLE. This simply sounds not good. I learnt, that the first seconds can be the hardest time in the engine life. It sounds logic, that in the first seconds there cannot be sufficient lubrication. There are rumours that starting an engine at low temperatures without pre-heating has the the same wear than 50 or 100 hours of flying. So, is there a "Gold-standard" to start without this excessive RPM-increase? Thank you and sorry for my english :-(

Seems that you get the complete package (socket and screw-in "inlay") for the Money. Great. Thank you for all the answers.

We have some lights under the glare-shield which do not work. Some bulbs are blown - which kind are these exact? They look like T1 3/4 SOckets. Also there are Eyebrow-caps which are screwed in. I know only those which are only push-in and can be pulled out simply

I am new to Mooneys and recently joined a group owning a 1980 M20K. We have some smaller issues with instruments/panel lighting One is Instrument lighting: The right dimmer does nothing! My collegues told me, that they had some efforts fixing the problem. Under the instrument panel, I find back in the foot-space (sorry, I am german) another fuses-panel with 4 fuses. One is missing and also the screw-cap. I have no idea what these fuses are for, what type they are and where I can get replaement. The fuse-holder seems to be a Eaton-product. I have found it on digikey.com The missing one is labeled "INSTR", which sounds for me that it has something to do with Instrument-Lighting. What exactly does INstrument-Lighting? The left dimmer "Panel-Lighting" drives the lamps under the glare-shield and most of them are working.