NicoN

Sorry for my english ... We have a weird autopilot problem (it is a Century 21 and we have 2 Gi 275 installed) in the hangar i can do the ground test, moving the heading bug to the left or right and the yoke is moving also. Do it with a small heading change, the yoke moves slowly, with large heading change (60° elft or right) the Ykoe moves faster - seems perfect. As soon as we are in the air, the heading mode has no effect anymore, the plane does not follow the commands. in nav mode the aircraft turns correctly. I can hear the motor running continously with the hdg bug set to somewhere (not in the middle). I opened the cover and can see that the aileron is running to the max position and then the motor seems to continue. What is weird: I can move the aileron easily with almost no power by hand and I can see the sliüpping process. My question: How much power is normal? I know, it is possible to override the motor but taht easy?

if it is not installed in your direct viewing field: - ask the shop to install the warning lights - in my opinion: go for all available sensor options

Has someone access to a service manual for the century 21 A/P?

I can give some hints, finally it worked. The shop tried hard but was too fast turning. We had the same problem: Our full circle ended not with 360° but with 390° easily - so exceeding by far! The solution: If you turn and stop, the indication on your GI275 seems to count down further. If you stop whenever GI275 commands "HOLD POSITION", it s internal oistion might be finallay 2-3° more. Do this 10 times and you have a large error. Solution: stop the turn not when the GI275 says, but around 3-4° earlier. Then wait for the indication to settle. Conntinue turning really slow!!!!!! 0.1-0.2°/s maximum! Stop, when the GI275 asks. With this method, we ended dead at 360° and the GI275 simply said "complete"- No nice chime or something The disappointing thing: the shop staff did not know this trick and also did not have a secret phone number of a Garmin evangelist!!!

We got GI275s installed the other day. Now, it seems that audio alerts can be heard ONLY on the cabin speaker - but not on headsets. According to the manual. it should be connected to Pin T - Altitude warning as an unmuted input. But does that include they appear on cabin instead of headsets?

We have a burned bulb in our A/P controller. This guy sits directly on top of the Co-pilots yoke, below is a small panel with the dimmers for panel and instruments light and the cigarette lighter socket. I am struggling of moving out the Controller. :-( AFAIK it has 2 little "claws" on the underside which should be operated with a screwdriver from the front The right one seems to be turned and unlocked, the left one I am not sure. removing the the screws for the panel with dimmers/cigarette lighter, I can bend that panel only a bit and reach the right "claw" with my finger tip. the left one is not reachable for me as the 2 dimmers are blocking. 1) is there a secret of how to pull the panel? removing the 2 screws seems not to be enough. I still cannot move this piece. And -please do not tell me it is bolted in place and I have to remove the cotroller first! 2) the controller seems to be a bit loos, but i cannot slide it out 3) and yes, for complet e removal I need to remove the yoke. But for now I cannot slide it even half of an inch.

On Ground it is really easy to operate. in the air you need much more power. Easy for me, but for my partner with a rotator cuff tear pretty hard. I had to adjust the cowl flap a couple of years ago when the cable was replaced. It tended to open on its own.

@wombat: I can confirm that you have TWO fuel senders. One on the outer edge of the fuel tank. This one is connected to A/C GND via the screws which touch the senders body. The next one is in the cabin wall and this one SHALL not have contact with the senders body and A/C GND. This is achieved by using "shoulder washers" which also isolate the screw shaft from connecting. Both senders are wired in series, so their resistancde is 60 ohms (I believe) together. If the inboard sender is connected to GND, then the outboard sender is useless. We had the situation that a hangar idiot lost one of the shoulder washers. Therefore, foru screws were isolated, one was not. That results in an indcation of maximum 18 gals instead of 36 (we have 72 gals). Not a real problem, becuase it takes a long time, then the needle goes below 18. But according to FAA rules your gauges only have to indicate the empty situation precisely - not the full.

We have the above model. Our manual cowal flaps work perfectly, but they are pretty tough to handle. It needs a little power in your arm. One of my co-owners has a shoulder problem. recently, I saw that he is almost not able to manipulate teh cowl flaps. his approach of always flying with his wife is not the best in my eyes. So, installing electrical cowl flaps could be a reasonable safety item for him. Is that possible? 1980 M20K, S/N 25-0378

On our Century 21 panel , the "AP" annunciator bulb failed . All others work, but I guess they will follow to electric heaven. If I press "Test" HDG, NAV and so on light up, except for "AP". The A/P itself does what it should. Our shop gave us an insane quote and an even more insane timeline to replace this supposedly burned lightbulb. So, today, I tried to pull out the handling panel from the center stack, assuming it has the same mechanism with a 3/32 hex key. But it seems not so easy. THere are 2 little holes in the front cover, behind is a screw and a nut. I can access them from the underside, but the opening is small and does not allow a wrench I can turn those screws only by about 150°. So, i think that they unlock the device from the panel - but it does not work . The device does not slide out or even seems to become loose. Even better would be if I can just remove the front cover, but I did not find any clips. Can someone help?

We have a brand-new 2 Gi275 installation with some issues. 1) the Revert switch does nothing. I found the diagnostics page in config mode, but all discrete inputs are labeled as "NOT CONFIGURED" and show no change when I flip the switch - it should possible to configure them. But where? Same to outputs. Where can I configure them, or - for the moment - can I see which function they could provide. For the future it is already planned to wire PB to change HDG/GPSS and I also would like to see a control light

@ArtVandelay We also have the factory probe under the right wing, while the JPI probe lives in this NACA inlet. It is ~6° C higher inflight than the fctory gauge. In the hangar they read the same

Oke of the Indikator Lights of pur Century21 AP Sems to be Burnt. is there Any information available which Type of light bulb is needed to replace? i grüß it is 24V in another Service manual ist Said something Abluft „65S18“

Success! Using all your experiences and more we finally managed. Our shop iniatially tried 20 circles burning 15! gallons and finally gave up. They wanted to move the GMU. We tried and again and also did not succed for the first 2 attempts. We always ended up not north, but overturning by at least 30-40° !! It finally worked doing the first 30° of the 36° turn, then stopping to turn and waiting the still counting down degrees to settle Then continue dead slow with only fractions of a degree until the "HOLD POSITION" command comes. Repeat. It was obvious that something was different after a few steps: we always ended up dead on the targeted heading (compared with the whiskey compass) and the last step now ended exactly on magnetic north. The GI275 gave only a simple "SUCCESS" Please GARMIN: let the GI275 talk a bit more in detail about what was wrong, like "Your full circle ended with over-turning by x degrees. Take your time and turn slower" Next issues will follow

We have a Mooney M20K today our shop tried to calibrate the GMU11 it works for the first steps, but finally it says "failed" and there was still 10 to 30° missing to complete the circle. before that they did a firmware upgrade and now it wants 10 steps/36° instead of 12/30° before (they say) What can we do? They tried 20 circles. A more detailed instruction? Videos on that? the GMU11 is installed in the right wing outside and aft of the panel with the OAT sensor. Seems to be a typical place for successful installation

We have a Mooney M20K today our shop tried to calibrate the GMU11 it works for the first steps, but finally it says "failed" and there was still 10 to 30° missing to complete the circle. before that they did a firmware upgrade and now it wants 10 steps/36° instead of 12/30° before (they say) What can we do? They tried 20 circles. A more detailed instruction? Videos on that? the GMU11 is installed in the right wing outside and aft of the panel with the OAT sensor. Seems to be a typical place for successful installation

I just found this: https://www.ckswitches.com/media/1363/mm.pdf That would match my "MM" and they look similar. Should be the L0 type

Some time ago, I had trouble with my trim switch (see old posting; it is NOT a split switch but thsi rocker model which you have to press to engage the clutch). I repired the wiring and anything was fine. Now we have trouble again. This time, this little spring metal "plunger" on the clutch microswitch is broken, therefore the clutch does not engage but the motor runs. The switch assembly is in good shape, so it would be nice to only replace one (or all 3 of these microswitches. But which type? We see a printing on it, but it is almost not readable. Can be something like "MM" or "MK" I know there is a company "MK microswithces" Does anybody know the type of these microswitches? The trim switch is a factory-Mooney thing and has nothing to do with the auto-pilot. P.S.: And - I am not taking drugs while aksing for the part of this switch. At least not more or something else :-)

We have a bit of a problem with our glare shield: It is super difficult to move the glare shield in and out. I tried to modify it a little bit to make the slit smaller and more stabile - but the result is poor. Yesterday I saw a Mooney with a glare shield where the slit is not just aligned in front of of this tube in the middle of the windscreen but a bit offset. Has someone photos of this kind of glareshield and how the slit is done ? We have a 1980 M20K

Thanks to all posters on this issue. I think, I learned that a running engine has nothing to do with a starting engine. So, our mag check might be useless. in fact, we did all the mag checks in idle, in flight (according to Savvy). According to our maintenance maual we have Slick magnetoes and both are equipped with impuls coupling. @PeteMc: I was already using the High-Boost-pump-method even before the primer assembly was removed. And it worked fine - far better than the POH-method. But the behaviour changed a lot after teh SB was done. But I will try your method of waiting quite a bit of time with the shorter priming phase - I never waited 10-20s. Lets see

As I stated, our mags have been overhauled less than 100h ago. So, I am not happy to hear that most likely the mag is faulty (again)

That does not sound promising. They are more or less brand-new! Only 90h or so. How to diagnose? The magneto check was fine. We have around 50RPM drop, left may be little more than right, if I remember. I also saw the typical uniform rise in EGTs while checking the magnetos Do the GAMI test while in flight?

At our last annual we lost your primer assembly accroding to the SB. Before, our 1980 M20K was starting like a charm - at least cold. But since then starting became more and more a PITA. Starting needs a lot of fuel and the starter motor has to turn the prop quite a while. Now we found out that after a couple of seconds it seems to be fine just to release the ignition key and it starts. Sounds funny? I was thinking of magneto issue, but both of them were replaced with overhauled ones two years ago. Any ideas on this effect? BTW: my partner recently came up with a document, which says to prime only 3-4 sec in normal mid temperatures while I learned that priming needs 7-8s, more when colder. Nevertheless; his method also did not work well.

Our shop said something of 8-10 weeks overhaul time and around 1000€ . They did not offer us a replacement but gave a quot for a Gi 275 setup (which is nice). Of course, we all appreciate the idea of our hangar neighbour that a clogged filter might be the reason. That's why I was asking for the procdure and whether thhose filters are accessible.

We have a Century 21 A/P installed. Part of it is a directional gyro (type is not available for me at the moment). This guy is drving me crazy. Especially during take-off it drifts a lot; sometimes its off by 30-40 degrees while climbing to F060 or so. After 30 minutes, I see less drfiting but that might be wishful thinking. The A/P keeps the heading pretty well, following the drifting DG :-( NAV mode is even more buggy: It was always necessary to keep the heading bug under the current course - this seems to be by design. Now - with the drifting Gyro NAV mode is difficult as the heading bug is drifting ayway from the 12 o clock position. The maintenance manual asks to clean the filters of the instruments regularly. It was definitely not done with the last annual/100h check. according to the manual, there are filters on the back side of AI and DG and also a filter on the vacuum regulator itself. Q1: Is this behaviour a typical failure for a gyro? What can be done besides of an overhaul? To be honest - we are discussing an upgrade and we want to avoid wasting money Q2: A friend recommended cleaning the filters first. I don't think that this is helpful, but it sounds quick and easy. Can I access those filters without removing the glareshield? This as always PITA with a risk of damaging the galreshield on this "slot". Any further ideas for diagnosing this problem? The DG runs absoulutely quiet We have 1980 M20K