BaldEagle

Thanks all for the feedback. For now I’ve decided to just replace the failed CDI as I found a serviceable replacement for only $245 which buys me a little more time while I decide on the upgrade path.

I just did mine. I didn’t have much luck with a heat gun so filled with a polyurethane filler, sanded, covered with a 1mm layer of closed cell foam and then wrapped with ultrasuede with a French seam stitch on the front. It was a full weekend’s work, not including the 6 hours learning how to operate a vintage Singer sewing machine. Edit: mine was also in 4 separate pieces held together with tape, but easily repaired with fiberglass and epoxy resin.

My No. 2 VOR head has failed. Is there any point in repairing / replacing these things given that VORs are on their way out? My primary Nav/Comm is an IFD440 and Aspen PFD Max. My second Nav/Comm is an ancient Colins VFH-251. I still get VOR2 input to the Aspen (and I can still ident it, which confirms it's the head that failed), but it functions as an RMI. What would you do? One thought is to replace VOR2 head unit with a GI275 for CDI + AI backup, and retire the vacuum driven AI and pump at the same time. Or just mark VOR2 INOP and wait for it to go the way of ADF / Loran, etc.

I believe it was about 28 hours labor. To their credit they said they hadn’t done one on a Mooney for a while and quoted high 20-something hours, so no nasty surprises when I picked it up. LASAR, who does this all the time and have really got the work dialed in, quoted me only 16 hours, which is great if it wasn’t for the logistical challenges of trucking up there balancing work obligations. Edit: I ordered the windshield directly from GLAP and had them ship directly to the shop so was only quoted labor.

Nope, but I used Advanced Aircraft at MYF to replace my windshield about a year ago. Busy shop with a good reputation; they do a lot of work on Mooneys. I’m going to have them replace my gear pucks next. My plan is to alternate between owner-assist annuals in my hangar and every other year have a competent shop do it (to mitigate risk of missing something important), which will likely be Advanced Aircraft.

You all got lucky. I just found out that a former employee of mine died from COVID-19.

Mine has been maintained by 3 or 4 well known MSCs over the years (albeit not recently), so you never really know when you’ve got 40+ years maintenance history and several owners, so your observation is well taken

For a meticulously maintained Mooney, I'm finding all sorts of crazy stuff. I pulled the sonalert to find a RadioShack part number. Well that's not in the parts manual. Replaced with correct part (Mallory, which I was able to get from Amazon for $19) and the problem is solved.

So this is annoying. The AP / pitch trim warning sonalert no longer stops making a noise when the pitch trim switch is turned on (after the "beep beep beep" or auto pilot disengaged. Instead it produces noise constantly but at, I would guess, about 30% volume. Any ideas on how to diagnose this issue? It's not loud enough to hear in the cruise, but is loud enough to hear over an ANR headset with the engine idling. I can only stop the noise by either pulling the 50amp Aux CB or holding down the autopilot disconnect button on the yoke, so it seems something is still sending some current to the sonalert when it shouldn't, or the sonalert needs replacing (?)

It looks like what I have are “lightning proof” fuel cap o-rings, which makes sense as my J was previously based in Florida. It is approved for installation on my J by serial number but only if I have the O&N bladders (I don’t) or have Shaw 457 fuel cap (I have 431). So to be legal I think the only option is to use the part specified by Mooney and adjust the fuel cap nut as mentioned previously to make it fit so that I can close and latch it. And to be ultra cautious, pressurize the tank to 1/2 PSI per the SB to check for leaks. https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/products/product/CA38241/

The O-Ring listed in the Mooney parts manual does not fit my Shaw 431-9 fuel caps. Well, it does, but I am unable to twist the cap to close it. It seems that the fuel cap sits too high. The previous owner was using these: it has a lip on it. Anyone have a part number?

Decided to commit to getting my CFI/CFII reinstated per 61.199. Any of you worked with someone in this position? I've only got 800+ hours instruction given, mostly private and instrument instruction, and it's been more than a decade since my ratings lapsed. I did a FIRC, and realized that it's been so long I really need to start over from the beginning. Looking for some advice from people that have been through this before. Obviously I need to start with ground school. What's cool these days? I grew up with King Schools back in the day. CFI ground school course followed by CFII ground school course? Sufficient? My preference is to do the CFII check ride. I don't want to think about the flying component until I've brought my knowledge back up to spec, but obviously I'd be looking to do this in my own Mooney. (As there's no avoiding a check ride per 61.199, I did initially consider an MEI (new rating) as that would re-instate everything, but decided it made no sense as I don't have any interest in a 121 / 135 gig, or instructing in twins for that matter, so focusing on CFI/I only. Just putting that out there in case this comes up as a suggestion).

Not much flying here even prior to the pandemic as I was grounded for upgrades (new windshield and a couple of avionics upgrades), got the airplane back just in time for the pandemic, and then limited options for trips, which is why I bought the thing in the first place. So I’ve grounded myself again while I do more upgrades this winter. Total hours last 12 months = 46. I know, that’s criminal. And my instrument currency has just expired.

Well that was fun. I got the door window done in less than 3 hours. It was original. The pilot window... 8 hours. Additional tools required included a jig saw, hammer chisel, drill, sheet metal seamers, rotary tool, and a bag of abrasive pads for it. The pilot window had been replaced at some point in the distant past and whatever shop that did it either had not heard of a Mooney service manual, or decided that they knew better when it came to choosing the sealant. It was impossible to remove without deforming the aluminum skin. Lots of evidence that the original sealant wasn’t cleaned up properly and I only had 2 rivets to drill out. It was as if they drilled out the holes, with the wrong sized bit, but only had 1 size of blind rivet in their inventory, and was trying to get it wrapped up on a Friday afternoon. 2 rear windows to do next, and yeah, it’s the same sealant. I can’t wait.

Mine is also a 1978 J. I'll be doing SB 208 when the all the interior panels come off for refurbishment / replacement as it has spent some of it's life in Florida and PNW, but I'll certainly be looking for evidence of water ingress when I do the windows as well.

I pulled the interior door panel off to take a look. What's interesting is that the sealant that was applied at the factory (I'm assuming the windows are original as I don't see anything in the logbooks to suggest otherwise) is just pasted up against the side of the glass, which doesn't look ideal to me but I suppose it saves a lot of labor avoiding the cleanup.

Apologies, I just moved the image so that it displays in-line.

For those that have replaced their side windows, what do y'all recommend for measuring, mixing and applying this stuff? I'm looking to do one window per weekend but might not have every weekend spare so not wanting to use the whole can all at once.

Partial success after putting it back on jacks. I was able to get grease through 3 of the 4 fittings.

I tried searching this site but couldn't find anything. I cannot get grease through these two Zerk fittings on either main gear. I replaced the Zerk fittings and a 120 PSI of grease with my pneumatic grease gun won't push grease through. At this point, are there any options other than pulling out the bolts and cleaning everything up? (I'd ask my A&P / IA but he's out of town).

If you’re doing the Grand Canyon and get as far as Bryce Canyon the flight from KBCE to Santa Fe KSAF takes you over Lake Powell and Monument Valley — and Santa Fe is an awesome place to stay and should be convenient if you’re heading back South East.

I haven’t replaced the unit yet, I’ll chase that up once I’m done with the annual. Something you can try: disable auto brightness (when booted hit Menu, then press left knob and twist left or right) and try adjusting the display brightness manually. If I set it to its very lowest or highest setting the noise goes away. I can live with this until I get the unit returned, but it would be annoying if I flew at night.

That must have been frustrating, but it does illustrate the value in being able to “interview” the seller.

If it’s any consolation I also had the prop seal issue — twice (the prop shop replaced the incorrect size seal with another incorrect size seal). Landing with zero forward vis was quite sporting I seem to recall. The same shop nearly killed a friend some years later through some spectacular negligence. The shop is no longer in business as the proprietor is now deceased. Then there was the time I took it up after having a cylinder replaced and I noticed the fuel pressure bouncing all over the place, a strong smell of fuel, and running a little rough. When I landed the left side of the fuselage looked like a Jackson Pollack. The A&P had neglected to secure the fuel line into the injector and it was spraying fuel all over the hot engine. Oh how we laughed at the one. The A&P no longer works on aircraft on account of crystal methamphetameme abuse (he is also deceased).

If anyone else has the same issue this fixed it. Autopilot captured the glide slope and flew the LPV approach as expected.