atpdave

The cigarette lighter socket in your plane (SN 29-0464) is connected with a 16GA wire to a voltage converter (output voltage 13.7-13.9VDC 5A) mounted on the tailcone bulkhead. The 5A inline fuse for the converter is attached to battery relay 2. It should have a label (if it hasn't fallen off) that says VOLT CONV or something like that. If the fuse isn't blown then the converter is probably fried. The good news is they can be found online for cheap, even on eBay. Search for Transelectric SM2412-5. I think these things were used on golf carts.

Last year I had this happen after the plane came out of an annual airworthiness inspection. Previously the mag drop was 20ish both mags. Had the timing checked and one mag was set 20d btdc and the other was at 24, both out of spec. Had the mags retimed to 22 and the problem went away.

I'm pretty sure it's impossible for Lm/n to be 5 inches greater than Lm/r. I have a page for the nose gear steering adjustment from the a M20K SMM, not an M20J, but I think it's the same. It says that the nose wheel axle centerline should be no more than 0.06 inches forward of the trunnion leading edge, measured with a plumb line. It's interesting that the difference in your diagram is exactly 5 inches, the same number as the trunnion distance from the reference datum. Measuring Lm/n is easy. Measuring Lm/r requires that a plumb line be dropped from the trunnion centerline. If we assume that Lm/n was accurately measured and Lm/r was not measured and is off by approximately five inches, your actual CG would be somewhere around 44 inches aft of the reference datum. I suggest that Lm/r and Lm/n be re-checked. Pages from MAN134 SMM M20K.pdf

I didn’t make that very clear. I was referring to McFarlane, who I think bought Flight Resource. Here’s a link to the STC.

Here's what McFarlane/Flight-Resource (STC holder for MT prop for Mooney) says (I have highlighted):

Yes. The slight difference is mostly due to the trunnion radius. Compare how the plumb lines are set in the SMM (weighing vs. rigging). I wonder why the distance between nose and main axles in @Marc_B's W&B is 2.3 inches less than that shown in the M20K dimensions figure I attached.

@druidjaidan, in the W&B sheet you show in the third post, I think all the arms are about 10 inches too far forward. Just looking at dimensions, weighing and gear rigging info in the SMM, they should be around -5.3 from the zero datum for the nose and +66.3 for the mains. Assuming the weights (and my calculations and assumptions) are accurate, the CG for your plane should be around 41.5 (no fuel) and 42.8 (full fuel).

Here's one that I know of personally, December 1981. Steve Smart was an acquaintance of mine. He became a preacher after that. No flight plan was filed and no one knew they were missing.

I had this done recently. Attached (hopefully) are the takeoff and climb charts from the POH supplement. I still cruise at 2400 rpm as before although could do 2550 post-mod. Pages from POH Supplement-2.pdf

I think having airworthiness inspections valid for 24 months might be a good solution.

Falcon Crest shows 1 in stock in San Antonio TX. http://www.falconcrestaviation.com

I want to thank James @OSUAV8TER for seeing this project through. The original halogen design was defective at best and it’s great that WAT, with James’ effort, developed this huge improvement for our benefit. Now to replace the wingtip lenses, melted by a previous owner, at $362 apiece (sigh…).

I was wondering how the ignore function works on this site. Looks like the perfect time to give it a try.

Because I had nothing better to do today I looked at the electrical schematic diagram for your plane. It looks like you have a four conductor shielded cable running from the nav/strobe switches through some connectors to the strobe power supplies and nav lights in the tips and tail. This is sufficient to wire the new lighting. The red wire is for nav, black is ground, yellow is strobe, and green is spare (please confirm this in your plane). If you are only replacing the wingtip lights and keeping the tail incandescent/strobe, the GEAR DOWN annunciator will dim properly with the nav light switch. If you are replacing the tail nav/strobe with LED you will need to wire a relay or other device to the GEAR DOWN return line in the annunciator or else live with a permanently dimmed and unreadable in daylight GEAR DOWN light, not a good thing IMO. You can wire the new lights using the red, black and yellow wires but the strobes will not be sync’d. You can use the green wire to sync the strobes but that would require jumpering them together in a connector behind the panel. I have no idea of the difficulty of doing that.

I have 0401.37 and I am using 8GB Sandisk SD cards in the bottom slots. I’m also using a 32GB Sandisk SD card in the MFD top slot for flight logging (overkill for sure) and it works fine. All are standard FAT32 format. Earlier software was much more picky about SD card formatting but 0401.37 seems much improved in that respect.