0TreeLemur

For some reason in my J CHT #2 is always about 20F cooler than the other three. Its the coolest cylinder. Always. One challenge I sometimes have in winter LOP ops is keeping CHT #2 above 300F. This happens up higher where it is colder and max power WOT is less than 65%. When that happens I'll run a little ROP just to keep that CHT up.

This evening I created a post and included a photo. It did not display. When I clicked "edit" the rectangular area where the photo should have displayed was just a rectangle filled with a single color. I tried .png and .jpg formats. Same outcome.

Comparing mine with the photo that Skip posted above, I don't see an obvious difference in terms of the location. The vane on Skips (top) seems to be bent down a bit more than the vane on mine (bottom). But the position on the wing seems quite similar. I'm really starting to suspect that the problem with my stall warning is in the mechanism rather than its set point. Like I wrote previously it does sound when I lift the vane during a ground check. I does not sound when doing a stall aloft or in the landing flare. The S&MM does have an entry. It is posted above. I'm not at that stage yet- trying to determine if it is a setting error or an internal switch mechanism problem. Plus the Phillips heads on the two adjustment screws on my bird are just about stripped.

Thanks Eric. Thanks for the photo. My switch is intermittent so it needs to refurbed. The good news is I think the switch installed in my J is the one that was manufactured by Mooney to be serviceable. It doesn't look like the FlightSafety version at all.

Having difficulty adjusting my lift detector. Despite the fact that it passes ground-test, it does not signal stall condition in the air. Thinking it might be an internal issue. I'm guessing that Mooney put that hole in the wing where it is for a reason. This poll will help me confirm that most are installed in the middle and that adjustment should not be necessary. Thx.

Next time you do it, take photos plz. Thx.

Following @PT20J's suggestion, I used contact cleaner and a thin rag. Wiped a bunch of gunk out of them. Now they work fine.

If you want to go even farther, read about H.A. Collison. Here's a brief intro https://www.postalmuseum.si.edu/collison-ha He pioneered early skud running airmail in open cockpit biplanes in Wyoming blizzards. He was legend. Wrecked airplanes. Landed in 2-ft deep snow. Cheated death so many times. Check this out - the article on the right side of the page discusses him quite a bit. https://oregonnews.uoregon.edu/lccn/sn85042470/1923-08-22/ed-1/seq-1.pdf Sadly, he was the captain of United flight 4 that suffered a night CFIT about 11 miles NW of Cheyenne in Oct. 1935. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_Air_Lines_Flight_4 The accident was a real tragedy. Great video about that bit of history on youtube.

I did 11 years in Laramie, about 30 miles from there. Like many people who move to the pretty mountains at 7200 ft (ISA temperature =0C), where the wind from mid-September through mid-May is 240@18G41, it started out "voluntary". Towards the end of the 11 years it began to feel "involuntary". Needless to say, I didn't fly while I lived there. The colds air temperature while I was there was (no-kidding) -40. In the summer on a hot 90F day, the DA is 10,000 ft. Alabama is a much better place for the aviation minded, except it's been to damn cold of late for me.

Stale thread, but I'll pitch in anyway: In my J there was a broken weld in the seat height adjustment mechanism that caused the pins to lift as the seat raised... Got that fixed at last annual. The point is you can't assume that the rails need replaced, several things can cause the pins to not function properly.

#5. Red = fast.

I experienced the same problem a few years ago. Some FSDO offices require an inspection by a designated inspector. The FSDO here in Alabama required me to pay for an inspector to travel to my hangar, walk around the aircraft, peruse the logs, and sign off on the ferry permit. The charge was ridiculous - about the same as what a DPE would charge for a check ride. Hopefully your FSDO doesn't have such a rule. Best to check with them first. It varies from one FSDO to the next.

Speed: groundspeed is determined much more by winds aloft than anything I do with the engine, unless I slow it down for some reason. And I never slow down unless I'm going to land. Fuel consumption: Using MP to determine ff LOP kind of takes this variable out of the mix. In cruise down low using the throttle to keep MP in the range of 22-24" I'll run the richest cyl. about 15-20 degrees LOP. Up higher WOT I'll run at peak EGT. Using this method, my cruise CHT's max out at 300-340 this time of year, 340-370 in the summer. Down low I get 8.5 < ff < 9.2, when 22" < MP < 24". When MP< 22 WOT, I see ff in the 8.3 to 7.8 range from about 7k to 11.5k cruising altitude. Fuel efficiency: see speed. Longevity: yes, that is a concern. I'd like to be as gentle as possible on the engine while cruising at a decent IAS for a given altitude. So- given my means of setting the engine: ff=f(MP), what is the "best" rpm to use? My hunch is that it is the higher one flies, more rpms are optimal, particularly after you go to WOT and no longer control the MP. Various articles I've read mention that it is better to use higher prop speed flying higher because of reduced air density. But how many rpms? 2550? 2600? Higher engine speed means higher power and higher pumping losses, which are probably minor, and maybe a bit higher engine wear. Realizing that I'm talking about sensible operation and a second order effect in a portion of the performance curves where the response surface is pretty flat- maybe it just doesn't matter as @PT20J wrote that Bob Kromer suggests. Maybe I just optimize for smoothest ops, which tends to be about 2500 rpm. I guess we can consider my question answered unless someone else can offer some reason to run at a different prop speed above 7000 ft.

That's a good question. Here's another stab at the question: When I do long cross country flights, often at 8000 or above, WOT, leaned to approximately peak EGT, does it make any difference to be at 2400, 2500, 2550, or 2600 rpm? Smooth is good, but what is optimal? I've played with it a little bit. Increase rpm and ff goes up. IAS doesn't seem to change much. So I don't think I'll be able to determine it experimentally. Must be 0.0164 + 0.072 CL2

The efficiency vs. rpm curve for a constant speed prop is really pretty flat between 2300 and 2600. It starts to drop off pretty quickly above 2600 though. My question is pretty esoteric- a fancy word for "probably not very important"