0TreeLemur

That is a fake photo! The scale is all wrong! I was raised on a farm/ranch. I know that wire- it's sheep wire woven in rectangular panels. Those rectangles are about 5" tall and 7" wide. Either the plane is too small or the fence is too big. Look at the shadow under the left wing relative to the sun angle- it's wrong and too diffuse. That's a two-track road, no more than 10 feet wide. The airplane is too close too the fence and at too weird of an angle to have ever gotten into that position at speed. I'm calling B.S.! EDIT: I seems I was wrong- the grids on that fence are much bigger than I thought. Never seen 'em that big. Mea culpa.

The wind and direction of flight usually determine my altitude. Heading west- usually lower to avoid the winds up high. At least 4,000 though. Often 120-130 knots G.S., sometimes 110 (ugh). Coming back home, 11,500, 2500, 7.5 gph, 160+ knots G.S. Did non-stop Santa Fe to Tuscaloosa last year in 6.1 hours.

Ambient air is pumped past fins on the cold side of the Peltier, condensing out water. The ambient air has a dew point of 70F or more. The unit outputs air with a dew point less than 50F. That air with reduced water vapor content is then pumped into the engine. Unless the engine cools to near 50 at night condensation won't occur. In a place with dew points near 70, the nightly low won't get much lower than 70. So the relative humidity in the engine stays at about 33%.

Cloud height is hard to judge when you are up close to them. Stormscope for the win. I won't go into any cloud that has lightning or known icing. I've penetrated baby CB's before they started producing enough precip to show on radar or lightning. Bumpy, but doable. Once approaching the IFR alley across mid-Mississippi a big, fat growing CB sat right at the entrance. I asked for deviations. Was told "nope, MOAs on both sides are hot." The FIS-B weather on the iPad showed nothing. I asked Memphis center if they had any precip on the scope. Nope. Told my co-pilot to cinch up, slowed to 120, and in we went. Wheeee! 5 minutes of tilt-a-whirl.

I built an engine dehumidfier a few years ago using a Peltier cooler and aquarium pump. The control loop uses a research grade temperature/r.h. sensor located in a separate chamber from the cooler. The control program solves for the dew point of the air being pumped into the engine, which I can set to whatever value I want.

Yes it is. When I first started painting, I was doubtful- it seemed too light but it darkened with each successive coat. The two component paint they put in a rattle can must not have a lot of pigment in it. But I sprayed outdoors in sunlight and stopped when it was as dark as the original. I reckon it took 7 or 8 coats. But it is a metallic paint and the guy did a heck of a job.

I had paint codes in the log books. PPG wouldn't divulge the formula for the blue color, but Mike at Route66 paint said that he new how to mix it. It is indistinguishable to my eyes. He did that from a few photos I sent him under different lighting conditions!

Thursday (yesterday) morning at 7:22 a.m. CDT a person from the FSDO in Birmingham, AL, replied to my e-mail asking if I still needed a revised A/W cert. I replied yes. An hour later, I received an e-mail from the FAA Certificate Management Section in Atlanta with detailed instructions explaining what needed to upload to their website. They wanted a scan of the current A/W cert, a copy of the form showing that I've changed to the new N-number, and a signed letter requesting the revised A/W cert explaining why (change in N-number). I happened to have all that but the letter. So I typed, printed, signed and scanned the letter and uploaded all. An hour later they e-mailed the revised A/W cert to me. All done by lunch. Wow. No complaints about the FAA in this matter. They did a great job!

Same here.

The instructions from the FAA said that the FSDO will issue a new Airworthiness Certificate. The FAA form 8050-64 giving me permission to use the new tail number says the following: "SIGN AND RETURN THE ORIGINAL of this form to the Civil Aviation Registry, Aircraft Registration Branch, within 5 days after the special registration number is placed on the aircraft. A revised certificate of aircraft registration will then be issued. Obtain a revised certificate of airworthiness from your nearest Flight Standards District Office." Returned signed form. I tried calling the nearest FSDO. Left a message. Followed their maze online. Sent an e-mail. Waiting to hear back. I would guess they are waiting for the registration update to appear online. That regs say that a copy of that signed Form FAA 8050-64 along with my old A/W cert placed in the aircraft makes the aircraft airworthy until the FSDO issues the revised AC.

According to the video above, the normal state for a Lycoming IO-360 before hot or warm start is flooded. I did not realize that. Don said that the flow divider acts like a coffee "percolator" and it drains fuel through the injectors after shutdown. Based on that I believe that by switchiing on the boost pump I didn't prevent cavitation, I caused the flooded condition to persist longer than I needed to. Note to self: boost pump not used for hot or warm starts. I was over thinking it.

FAA permission to use N201Y received in February of this year. April 1 I took off the tape after painting the shadow on the new "1"s. Turned out pretty good I think!

When you run the boost to fill the lines, what throttle position do you set? Half?

I've started dreading them too.

When on a trip and I stop to refuel and do it quickly, I have no trouble with hot start. Just use the boost pump to pressurize the fuel system, crack the throttle, crank the engine and advance the mixture. Viola! Running engine. If I go someplace for fuel and take my time re-fueling, visit with someone, enjoy a nice evening, the IO-360 doesn't want to start. CHT's cooled down to maybe 120-160F. The procedure above does not work. It takes five or six tries. With the obligatory starter cool down periods, it takes 5 minutes. When this happens I get out and look for fuel dripping out of the exhaust pipe. Nope. If I waft some air from the vicinity of the exhaust and smell it, it smells like fuel. I don't prime the engine. When I pressurize the fuel system the mixture is at idle cut-off. Anybody have any idea what's going on here? Thx. Fred