Cardinal767

Be thankful, I was at KBFF last week and had the exact thing happen, but the line guys did absolutely nothing. My 81’ K model and two Citations 525’s were hammered by golf ball size hail and 60 mph winds. I was glad I had it tied down but it may be totaled. Sad, it barely has 2000 hours on the airframe.

With my K model, "Full" is all the way to the rivets above the filler neck flap. When filled to the flap, I'm usually short by 2.5 gallons per wing. I installed a EDM830 and came up with these numbers while calibration testing. Running a tank until the low fuel light came on, then filling it verified it all

Look at your schematic. Find your SHUNT. It is still in the same section(CIRCUIT BREAKER PANEL) as the other two fuses. You’ll see a BUS and BATT fuses coming off the SHUNT and are going to your amp meter, that’s your other 2 fuses, amp sizes are shown. My 81’ K has a total of 4 each 5 amp fuses. The INST, powers the glare shield and FLAP/TRIM indicators. The RADIO, powers my radio and instrument back lights and a few post lights. I just put in a new radio and transponder and blew a fuse.

“Low” pump voltage is adjustable with an adjustable resistor on my K, not sure about the R model.

Oh, Sorry for my confusion. I've yet to find any brand that a very comfy. I have new spare cannulas for any one who flies with me and clean mine.

Being my 830 only has about 300 hours on it, I really don't want to spend another $4,000 for a 900 if the installation manual reads "The EDM-700 TIT cable may be connected in parallel (piggyback) at the TIT probe (preferred), or at the ship's TIT gage. Check the TIT readings between the EDM and the ships TIT gage in flight, then do the following calibration procedure. (This may be done in flight or on the ground.)' I didn't design the system, but I'm willing to try and make it work Here's what I plan on doing to test the entire system as it is installed. Top cowling off, TIT probe removed from the exhaust only. The probe lead is about 18 inches long, a industrial heat gun, an exhaust tube I have, and a Type-K thermal coupling probe attached to my capable multi-meter. I'll compare ALL three readings if I can get the temp high enough to get the OEM gauge to read. By adjusting the distance between the heat gun and the tube, I'll be able to regulate the temperature in the tube. Its a start. Being that impedance was brought up. I was told that the 830 has a very low impedance, so it should not affect the high impedance OEM gauge. FYI, there is a factory cannon plug between the TIT probe and the gauge that can affect the impedance. I solved a flaky OAT gauge readings by disconnecting and reconnecting the two cannon plugs, one in the wing and one in the cabin at the wing root.

The regulations limits us to just those two options. Cannulas or masks below FL180 and unpressurized masks below FL250.

Let me rephrase. I've connected both TIT gauges to one TIT probe (like JPI said was possible) to see just how far off the two readings are. Until I've verified which reading is closes to accurate, I'll use the higher (830) as the limiting reading. I can not fly with the OEM disconnected to see what the EDM would read solo, and I'm in no hurry to drill a second hole in the exhaust when the EDM can be calibrated. Again, both readings were very close in the 1300*F range. In the 1400's the differences were around 50*F and continued to increase through the 1500's. The OEM indicator topped out around 1530*F with the EDM at 1630*F. I'll do some more testing.

Byam Propeller in Fort Worth, TX has always done a good job and a fair price for me for decades. I had my prop OVERHAULED with all SB's complied with about two years ago. The prop hadn't been off since 1981. I think the price was around $2k. The prop governor was to the point the cost of repair exceeded buying a new one and they let me know it.

After all the discussion on how far off the OEM TIT indicator is, I connected(piggy back) my 830 to the OEM TIT probe. The part number on the probe installed is 3199516. Before starting the engine I checked that all CHT/EGT and now the 830's TIT temps all read the same as my aircraft OAT and the 830's independent OAT. All (15) temps were within 2*F of each other. The aircraft TIT of course was off scale too low. After takeoff I monitored both the aircraft TIT and the 830's indication as I climbed from 600 to 8,500 msl. At first, both indications were within 25*F(at 1300*F), with the 830 reading higher of the two, but that was short lived. The higher I climbed, the difference between the two increased, ending with about a 100*F split (830 highest) . Here is what concerned me, in cruise (2400rpm, 30.0 MP @ 9.5-9.7gph LOP) the aircraft TIT read around 1525*F and the 830 read 1625*F. I tend to take the word of the one closer to the danger zone (and 37 years younger). I went ahead and continued to lean until the 830's TIT dropped below 1600*f to be safe. Being I'm new to LOP, is pushing the 1650*F max TIT normal? Yes, I know I need to check the calibration of both indicators. Until I do, I just want to be nice to my engine. Thanks for the help Bob

I had the same issue. I disconnected the connector at the servo in the wing and slid it on and off several times to make sure it had good continuity. Done, problem solved. When the pitch started doing the same thing a few months later, same fix. Only issue I have now is since I fixed the pitch trim servo. It trims one direction, a few seconds later, it trims the other way. It’s nonstop, not bad, but I worry about burning the servo motor out. Bob at Aerolab keeps replying that he will get back with me about the problem, but it’s been two months now, and counting. Bob

Here is a good read on the components in our engine fuel system. Their purpose and troubleshooting guide. http://www.dgsupply.com/node/2044

Thank you sir, I'll put the 13.7 x FF/ 210 on my performance chart in the POH. Some how the Gami POH Supplement did not make it into my POH, I'll fix that tomorrow. As you can tell, I'm conservative power operator and new to LOP operations, I want my -LB to last a long time.

I setup the EDM HP to the ROP constant for break in and have not changed it. The FF, MAP, and airspeed are pretty close to what is listed in the POF. I've kept the settings because ROP is the dangerous side of an engines life. Also I've noticed I can't run smooth LOP below 2500 rpm if I go above the upper teen flight levels, so I'll fly ROP then. In cruise, I pull back to 70% (125* ROP/12.7gph) then do the big pull to 8.0gph(60+ LOP) below FL180. I'll check peak from the LOP side, then set in 30*-50* LOP(usually around 8.5 gph) knowing I'll drop below 70% HP. Airspeed drop matches the POH for about 60's% HP (155kts-165kts). CHT's are quite nice, OAT:-10, CHT's low 300's(#5 and#6: upper 200's), OAT: +10, CHT's mid 300's. Oil temps 150f-170f, at OAT:-20 I've seen 138f. Is 29.0" MAP, 8.5gph FF a correct power setting for around 65% LOP? I do have to deal with the MP creeping up, then dropping, with only 200 hours on the engine I wouldn't image the turbo is coked up since I do the 5 minute cool down per the POH.

I’ve had the same issue, but not to the same extreme. I don’t operate the same settings as in the video. I’m new to the 231 and have a new -LB engine installed. I have a 830 to monitor everything, but I must have it setup wrong. My 65% is around 27”-29” @ 8.5 to 9.5 gph 50 LOP. I’ve been wondering the cause myself. The biggest change I see is in rough air with speed changes caused by the AP trying to hold altitude. Ram air into the cowling has its affects. I do know that in LOP, an increase in fuel flow adds heat energy to the turbo. That increases the MP, and then of course fuel flow increases. I have to play with it, but thankfully I’m not dealing with CHT’s you’re dealing with. When temps get too high, I continue to lean beyond 50 LOP to see if the CHT’s drop or it gets rough.

Chris, here’s another neat video of shadows and a pilot being more than just at the controls, but apart of his aircraft. With the absolute oldest version of man flight and controlling an aircraft with about 20-30 seconds of lag time between control input (heat) and response, it’s art in motion. Flying 100% at the mercy of the winds and the topography interaction, and never touched the walls of the canyon (by inches) , can you imagine the grin on the pilot’s face? LOL

David, You're absolutely correct. The pilot has flown the route for two years. The filming flight was planned out and scouted out, and even used an app with satalite pictures. Starting out higher, then lower and lower as the area was learned. He did it while getting out of monster headwinds. The pilot is also a rotorcraft and LTA pilot, so he’s respectful of contour flying. Va (indicated) in a fixed wing is pretty straight forward as long as you know your current W&B. No worries about RBS, but Accelerate Stalls are normally found the hard way too. With 60kts+ between Va and Vs1, no abrupt altitude changes, and no greater than 60* bank angle, I doubt the 232 was pushed to its 2.8g limit or tempting an accelerated stall. The pilot also said he had no plans to do another filming flight. He said he had too much fun and might be tempted go lower. Being there wasn’t anything for at least 50 miles in every direction, if something went wrong, the first responders would be coyotes.

I’ve watched it many times over the years. One thing remains the same in my book, in level flight, the horizon must always stay below a given point in the windshield. If it goes above this point, it’s time to get back on the clock and work the plan you should have in place. I learned this flying my Cardinal back country fly in Idaho, where I had very little spare power. Here is a video that might thrill. Just know your limits.

Thank you sir. I knew it was a BS reading, the manifold pressure proofed that by being rock steady. When it 5,000 RPM’s and there prop was still on with no oil on the windshield, I was still good. Oil change is 2 hours away and I’ll be on it. Your right about JPI tech support, I was chasing my tail, that’s why I moved the sensor and the wire routing several times. Why I didn’t check the Molex connectors, no idea, that will teach me.

Thank you, I'll do it.

Thank you gentlemen, I’ll definitely check the connector. The fluctuations have been extreme now and then. Bob

Has anyone dealt with this issue? I’ve move the sensor on the mag and wires several times, still no luck making it reliable. Makes me think I should wire it in with the factor tach. 7F3D50B3-3678-4902-A420-B7575750C01A.MOV

Fly safe also. With the schematic you can go back to the original point. Everything stopped working after you pressed the CWS button. I flew my 232 for weeks while parts were being repaired. From your description, I’m thinking you can still move the trim wheel by hand?

No sir, I haven’t had a chance to attend any clinics or other gathering. Sadly I’ll be in Denver the weekend of the 23rd. I live in Waco, TX but I mostly work in Denver and Carlsbad, CA. My 232 is my commuter

The waste gate is spring loaded open and has to have oil pressure to close it. The controller releases that oil pressure when it needs the gate to open. Cap the line going from the waste gate to the controller and the waste gate should close. A pressure gauge instead a cap on the line can tell you if there is oil pressure down stream of the waste gate and upstream of the controller.