PeteMc

On the N# and Home Address.... You can remove it from the DB. My NY address I didn't care as they'd have to get past the Doormen. New address when I get it changed will be blocked, but they still have to get in the gate if we're gone.

I'm so confused... So I'm moving from a state with 8 characters on the plate to a state with only 7, so my current plate won't work (IFRRATED). What do you guys think? Here are the front runners: IFR RTD M20FLYR 231KTS IFRFLYR 231QM

Check with the Flight Schools at the airports you stop at. You'll need to Log them OUT of their account, then you log in to update your SD Cards or USB Stick, whatever you use. Then MAKE SURE YOU LOG OUT when you're done. Other option would be if any of the airports have a Garmin Shop. I'm sure they could also help you out.

Will do. I think the fix is going to just be add a resistor. But not sure if there are LED replacement bulbs that will also resolve the issue. Hopefully someone here will chime in with options.

Sorry, I was referring to the switch covers, not the vents.

I haven't fixed/modified it yet. I've heard about one fix, but really haven't dug into if there are multiple options, and if there are, which one is the best. Maybe @OSUAV8TER has heard of a good fix on that too?

@Cobra Pilot I may need a couple of replacements soon. Did you get the printer heat increased or make any other changes to keep the layers from separating?

I did the same thing as @Pinecone did with my wingtip and tail lights/strobes. I also switch the beacon light to LED at the same time. My plane is in for interior right now at I69 where @OSUAV8TER is based, and once my Recognition Lights are changed out, I'll be all LED.

Database would be a different issue.... You had said "software" in the post I was replying to. I update my two GPS and my 275 with a Bundle Update, so all three get updated. But if there were a Waypoint that the GTN had that the 275 didn't understand, I would think it would just load the Lat/Long. But someone that does not regularly update their 275 will need to comment on what happens if they have a Wpt in their Route that their older 275 DB does not have.

There are often a LOT of reasons to update the Software/Firmware in any device that may or may not have anything to do with what the user sees. As @PT20J said, it may have to do with the Autopilot interface or it may have to do with improvements to process the various data faster. You may not want to be the first updater, but if you don't hear horror stories here or other places, I typically suggest people always update to the latest SW/FW. (On all devices, not just Avionics.)

JPI 700 is not a Primary Instrument. So I needed to replace the one gauge or go for a full replacement with a newer Primary JPI or the GI275 EIS, but the timing for that kind of installation isn't going to work right now. I may end up there, but just not now.

IMPORTANT NOTE: If anyone reads this thread down the road and is thinking about the Aerospace Logic MP/FF gauge, understand that it will DISABLE your JPI 700/800 Fuel Flow and Fuel Management. I'm looking into possibly with my mechanic to put in a longer fuel line so I can have two traducers. But until that happens or I hear back from JPI with a fix, it looks like I can only use the lesser Aerospace Logic fuel flow. (Which only shows fuel used since startup, no history.) As for the Aerospace Logic gauge, it looks great and is definitely a option if your MP/FF dies and you can't find a replacement either.

Spread sheet and pressurized should be right for the LB, but I wouldn't go on what sounds right either. Have you been using the same mechanic for a long time? That would be my first call and the odds are he'd either remember what I have off the top of his head or certainly would have notes in my file with the info. And Yosemite is on our list to hit now that we're moving out to the PNW. So we may be chatting in the not to distant future.

Looking good! ADDED: Maybe someone can take some comparison pictures of their old one turned on (just long enough to get the pic) and then one after the new LED is installed.

I'll admit it has been a while since I've gone to a PPP, timing just hasn't been great the last few years. But in the past my insurance didn't charge anything extra. Wonder if that will still be true when I do eventually get signed up for one?

There is no "special" insurance for the PPP, it's just your regular insurance with them named on your policy. You just need to call or email your insurance broker and they'll take care of it. Everything you need to know will be laid out in the information you get when you sign up for the PPP.

I believe the R has a full feathering prop. Does the M also? My K makes no reference to pull the prop back in an engine out emergency glide descent.

The reports/test I've read about for a full engine failure, even with a windmilling prop seem to dispute this. And no, regretfully, I tried and can't find one right now to actually quote. What I remember is that a fully functional and running engine with reduced power (e.g. our "faking" a failure in a test) would often have enough RPMs and full oil to manipulate the the prop. But often it would only have enough control to initially manipulate the prop. With the reduced airflow as you establish Best Glide, combined with the RPMs slowing from pulling the prop, the end result is the prop would return to flat. A good test might be someone with a wingtip camera running at a very high frame rate and also with a good side view of the prop might show the prop moving to a course pitch and then moving back to flat as it slowed. Next best thing would be to go to FULL IDLE and obtain Best Glide. Then rapidly move the prop lever and see what if any surge you get. And if you get something initially, after you've had the prop lever back for a while, try it again. But a full engine failure can happen for any number of reasons. If we exclude fuel exhaustion and go with a mechanical issue, odds are those issues are going to include partial or full oil loss or some sort of internal damage which restricts movement and cause lower RPMs. These issues, from what I remember reading, are going to prevent any change in the prop pitch. The closest way to try and replicate a full engine failure, if you want to go full test pilot, would be to shut down engine. But even then you've got an engine full of oil with no other issues causing resistance to normal internal movements. So pull the lever just in case you do get a momentary reduction in drag. But I really don't think in a Mooney with a mechanical engine failure that you're going to gain much if anything.

Interesting. So with idle power you were over ~1600 RPM where the governor still gave you some prop control? And after you pulled the prop, the RPMs didn't drop to the point where you really lost all governor control and the prop went flat anyway? I've seen this discussion a lot. But the outcome of all the test I've read about with non-feathering props is that they slow down and you loose all prop control. I would be curious if you didn't pull the pop if after X amount of time, about the time when you pulled the prop, the Smart Glide tweaked itself and would add the 450 ft regardless if you pulled the prop or not. OR... was that period where the prop was still at a high enough RPM to give you some control gave you that 450 ft before the prop went flat again? If the latter, the always pulling the prop control back immediately would be a good thing on the check list.

Same with my inReach. The advantage I like with the inReach is that you get unlimited "check in" messages and 10 Text Msgs per month with the Safety (Basic) plan. This is great to keep people informed if you're out kayaking or hiking alone. With the higher subscriptions they can also track your progress online.

Yes, semantics on Garmin's part. In the GI275 manual they refer to it as "Auto-Switching" and the discussion started from the GI275 side. Garmin GI 275 Pilot's Guide 190-02246-01 Rev. K pp 47

The video did show some settings to check in the 275, so hopefully that will be it. And I'm 99% sure that I remember other discussions that the button is hidden on the GTN when connected to a 275 (who knows why it can't be left On). But I also think hiding or un-hidding the Autoswitch button in the Settings on the GTN is in the Configuration. And in the video it is obvious turned On, but given it may have been because of the G500. So maybe a quick call to your Avionics guy or email to Garmin to clarify and ultimately resolve the issue.

I thought I remembered this discussion over in the FB 275 group, but nothing definitive came up in my search, so I started a new discussion. One guy who just recently had the same issue found the below video. Not specifically about the 275 and there is a G500TXi in the mix, but they video shows various settings needed in the GTN and 275. Might be helpful to check. https://youtu.be/2QxRUkGLvuE

I know other people that have the 275s as their PFD and I believe it works for them. I'd first confirm that the AutoSwitch didn't somehow get turned Off in your GTN. (Unlikely, but you never know.) On your comment about switch to the Active Frequency, well, unless you are using the GTN to navigate with a VOR, don't wait. As soon as you load the Approach, go make the ILS Active. The reason it doesn't do that on it's own is because you might be using a VOR and it doesn't want to mess you up. The switch occurs if you are withing 1.2NM of either side of the LOC and are more than 2NM and less than 15NM from the FAF. So if you're waiting until you're close to the FAF to switch the Freq to Active, you may be too close. Other option is that the installer didn't configure something correctly when they interfaced to the 275s.

Yes, let's hope so. But since it was supposedly such a high priority, I was just surprised it didn't make it into this update. I'd be curious to hear what the issue is. Guessing they rewrote a big chunk in the update that broke it and getting it back in for whatever reason is a nightmare.