JoeM

Another option (which we just used to keep our plane flying while we get ready to install dual GI 275s) is to buy one of the many serviceable DGs available on the used market which other owners have removed to upgrade. This would keep your plane IFR capable, reduce downtime, reduce expense, and give you and your partners time to make future decisions.

I have three of them. One fully functional and two with amperes gauge inop. P.m. If interested

I prefer an on/off toggle switch so I used this one https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/togglevalve11-12168.php

Not sure about his availability, but Steve Parkins at Corona is my mechanic and very good. He knows Mooneys as he owns one and works on others. PM me if you would like his number.

Steve Parkins at AJO has worked on numerous Mooneys, including mine, recently. He is a perfectionist. PM me if you want his number.

I installed Plane Power alternator and regulator in my 65E (under supervision of A&P/IA of course) and it works very well. Their customer service was fantastic as well. Joe

My E had the trim brake removed for an aftermarket electric trim which has now been removed inop. So I need the original trim brake spring assembly. The trim assembly p/n is 740048 and the attached pic shows the sub-assembly part numbers. I see several trim assemblies with different part numbers on Ebay, and I'm wondering if they are the same or were changed between 64-67? Or if anyone has just the screw, nut, spring and brake available? TIAA Joe

My aileron rod ends are worn and need to be replaced. They are pinned into the rod (pic below). My mechanic is trying to determine how to replace them and with what part number. Spruce carries threaded m34-14 rod ends. Is that the one? TIA

I have my G430 tray out (for another upgrade) and would like to prewire the GPS connectors for dual G5s. I believe the ADI requires two RS232 on pins 56/57. Are there other connections to the 430 for the CAN bus or HSI that I should prewire as well? Also, I am running the wire in the wing for the magnetometer and wondering how many wires I will need? TIA Joe

I know you are asking for navcom advice, but if you building an IFR panel, your AP becomes important too. Does your Brittain work? Mine does (with help from many here and Kevin Westbrook), but I am planning for a BK Aerocruze 100 as well. I have (and recommend) an Avidyne 440 which includes a glideslope and VOR capability. The com works well too. I bought mine used from Wentworth. Avidyne has great customer support.

Anyone who has installed a G5 magnetometer in a short body willing to fabricate one for me? I am getting ready to install dual g5s under IA supervision and would prefer to use someone's successful installation bracket rather than fabricate from scratch. TIA

looking for 1965 M20E SN 539 gear safe & gear unsafe panel lights (push to test, twist to dim)

Getting ready to do that on mine . How do you like the Air tex ?

Aspen says their EFD1000 Pro doesn't require keeping VSI, but I see the legacy instrument in some installations. Do those who fly with Aspen recommend keeping the steam VSI or does the Aspen show this well?

I'm upgrading my vintage panel to standard 6 pack. Does anyone have a used, pilot side, 6 pack panel you'd be willing to sell?

My 65E has alt hold so not just Js. Kevin is at five 3 niner, two niner two, ofour 7 four. He overhauled mine too.

My plane sits outside so I bought a solar BatteryMinder to match my Concorde 12v and connected it to the battery with Anderson connectors. I use the connectors to power my poor mans Air Conditioner (converted igloo cooler) when it's not connected to the solar charger. It has kept my new Concorde well charged for over a year so far. Of course, this requires an A&P to sign off.

I had a short circuit, blew a fuse on the shunt and now, after repair, the amp load meter is pegged right both when master is on and off. Is the amp meter shot?

I have removed both sides on my 65E. It had vacuum tubes on pilot side which I replaced with a PTT switch (I installed an off-on switch in the panel for the wing leveler.) Remove set screw, remove nut, and tap bolt from bottom. Then twist yoke off shaft. I have not re-attached vacuum tubes, but it looked easy with needle nose pliers..

Looking for Duke's fuel pump part number 4140-00-19A for a 65 M20E serial number 539. In the process of contacting the salvage yards now. Thanks for any suggestions.

Having had an F and a K (231) before my E, (all turbocharged), I have a few observations: 1. Manual gear is easy to get used to and much cheaper to maintain. As long as your shoulder works, it is superior. Not as sexy though. (My E has electric flaps) 2. My E is 10 years older than my F and 15 than my K. There are differences which some people overlook. Lack of sun visors. Older yokes and door handles that break. Steel windscreen tube that messes up the compass. No emergency baggage door unlock. Flying in the yellow arc alot. Fewer autopilot options. Wiring that is ancient and hard to troubleshoot. Vents that don't work the same way. Mooney really did improve the airplane over the years. 3. The K engines usually need a top overhaul about 900 hours. I loved my 231, until I had to pay the bills. Unless you need to fly high (over mountains, weather, or winds) they are a lot more expensive than an F. For me, it wasn't worth the extra money anymore. Which one is best depends on your mission. You are smart asking lots of questions and getting loads of free advice. Good luck!

This antenna is below the belly, with 2 thick blue wires running to behind the panel where they are snipped off. What is it?

I took my K model to a MSC 13 years ago for annual and tank reseal. It needed a top OH, which they did. 10 hours later the crankshaft sheared in flight. Post failure engine inspection determined the cause was excessive side torque on the #5 connecting rod that caused the crankshaft to shear. The shop had no insurance (has since gone out of business) so we had to pay for an OH'd engine. MSC's are great, except when they're not. You always pay more, and usually get what you pay for, but it boils down to who is doing the work, their training, experience, and supervision. I now focus on the individual instead of the shop.

Need suggestions on where to take my E model to get proper rigging in Socal. I know who the MSCs are, but am interested in pireps on A&Ps with experience rigging Mooneys specifically. Thanks in advance.

yes, about a year ago