JoeM

I’m getting ready to do this in my E as well. What panel design app did you use?

I am interested in a set too. 65 M20E.

Bruce Jaeger used and recommended Douglass https://douglassinteriorproducts.com/. I have ordered from them but they require you go through an interior shop (doesn't have to be an aviation shop so I used a car/boat guy). Their fabrics come with burn certs.

Thanks all! I do have an UBG-16 and the gyro pressure is inop. I will try connecting this to that unit. It is likely that's where it goes. I appreciate all of your help.

On my 65 M20E, the yellow tube (circled in red) is connected to a small black box (also circled in red in the 3rd pic) behind my copilot panel. Where should it be connected? I have a Brittain with Alt hold and Pitch control. My altitude hold isn't working well but pitch control does. Also, my heading selector is off quite a bit. I have tested and repaired the boots and lines to 5" of vacuum and the PC system works normally.

Turned out my new probe was the wrong one. Shout out to Dan at Lasar for getting me the new part number, so I could find a used one online. CHT in OEM cluster works fine now. Thanks to those MSers who helped me understand how the OEM system works. Got me on the right track. i also appreciate the input on upgrading the UBG-16. That will be helpful when I redo the copilot panel.

My E does not have the opening under the aileron, so I had to do it from the underwing inspection opening. To undo the rear facing nut, I bought and tried both crows feet wrenches and ratchet wrenches, but ended up using a simple, long 1/2” open end, flipping it over each micro-turn. My arms and hands took a bruising from the sharp sides of the opening, but eventually the nut came off. I used an adjustable magnet to lift the nut and washer off, but lost them both when trying to get the threads started on reinstalling it. It truly is a job for small hands and looong tempers. I took many breaks to rest and re-calm myself. After doing all that, I discovered the servo was fine and someone had slipped a larger hose over the small one causing the leak. So…..when you say you have done the requisite tests, be sure to localize the problem precisely before removing servos. The job is too hard to make the same mistake I did.

Plane parts has the master cyl overhaul kits. Bill Goetschel overhauls the master cylinder and can replace the seal for about $200. 507-581-9761

Leaking servo boots can be repaired with Permatex Black rubber sealant until they hold 5 lbs of vacuum measured with a brake pump from Harbor Freight. I just finished repairing mine. Beware of buying used ones on EBay. Sellers sometimes say they don’t leak without properly testing. I may have an extra that holds vacuum if you need one.

I have an EI UBG-16 with all the probes. Would you upgrade to an EI to reduce install costs?

Six in one. Thanks for the help.

CHT gauge pegs right when connector attached, pegs left when connector removed. Have already checked for OEM wire connected to F in connector being grounded. 2nd CHT wire is grounded. Bought and installed new probe. Took cluster apart and checked for broken wires. I have the wiring diagram and have read some threads. Wondering if OEM gauge (cluster) can be diagnosed? Can they be overhauled? Anyone have a used cluster for sale? Appreciate any help! Joe

Two things have yet to be mentioned: 1. The federal interstate commerce exemption trumps and can avoid all state aircraft taxes on purchases (not annual use taxes). I live in a high tax, aggressive enforcement state so I know. Pm me for details. 2. In CA, they drive airports and send tax notices to the FAA registered owner /address. If it is an LLC in a no-info state like WY, it becomes uncollectible. Of course they can use a boot lock if it’s tied down on the ramp and you leave it long enough.

Most aircraft (or boat) owners don’t buy because it makes sense financially. They buy because they want to own their own plane. There’s a saying that “if you have to ask how much it costs, you can’t afford it”. I prefer not to ask. Another option, if you don’t fly enough to justify owning yourself, is to get a partner. This has worked well for me as my yearly hours have declined.

Wondering if there is a way to test components of the OEM CHT with spark plug probe on #3 cyl? It recently failed (pegged left) while troubleshooting Cyl #3 running hot after left mag OH. I also have an EI UBG16. I have confirmed wire continuity from probe to connector behind panel. Thanks for any input!

+1 for early mornings from New Mexico West. In the summer, you will have thermals and convective buildups in the afternoon.

My three Mooneys have sat outside on tie downs in SoCal for 18 years. The high desert is hot and dry, except for summer thunderstorms, and a cover will protect the interior. If you can get a hangar with help from MSers, all the better. Certainly better to fly, even once, than to sit in the humidity without flying at all. Go for the trip!

Thanks... I am too

Would appreciate guidance how to remove PC rudder servo that sits under the battery. Search forums without success. Looks like the back nut is inside the belly pan....Correct? Thanks.....

I am looking for one aileron servo and one large rudder servo that are serviceable or repairable.

Great input, thanks! Decided to cut new panel and add a backup AI.

Pirep from Cecelia: Kevin has a new phone number Five 3 Niner, two niner two, zero quattro seven quattro. She is back working FT at Brittain helping the new owner to get a repair shop for Brittain components opened.

Wondering if there is a rule stating where the TC needs to be installed? I replaced my 2" T&B with an AV-20s (has all the features of TC + clock + more) but is can't be primary as a TC. So I need a TC for IFR. I have a 3" hole on the co-pilot's side I would like to use if it is legal. Anyone know? Thanks.

Plane parts referred me to Bill Goetschel, an IA who overhauls and tests the original paramount cylinders. He repairs or replaces the poppet valve (the brass one which presses the fluid down to the wheel cylinder and which is NOT included in the O ring overhaul kit). He prefers calls or texts at 507-581-9761. He also sells replacement master cylinders on Ebay. When returned, he provides a log entry showing the overhaul with a place for your A&P to sign that he installed it. Mine worked perfectly.

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