Guitarmaster

No. With the stall vane down. Lifted ground. When the vane is up, grounded, the sound goes away. I didn't think about measuring voltage with the stall vane closed. I will try that tomorrow.

No. Circa 1994 instrumentation.

There is no measurable voltage at the Sonalert. When I pull the breaker, it goes away. When I short across the terminals it goes away. If there is stray voltage, it's got to be coming through stall circuitry. The dome light circuitry appears normal. There is no change in the sound with turning the dome on or off.

The plane is a '75. I did think this was a possibility, but the gear and stall warning circuits are completely different circuits.

I agree on the leakage, but from where? Swapping the Sonalerts is my next step. When yours quit, was it making weird noises or just didn't work? As far as the interesting problems... go big or go home! I tried the chant and dance, but the gremlin is still there. Perhaps I am doing it wrong?

That's the only place it could be coming from.

Time to put the collective Mooneyspace mind to work. The problem is, when the master switch is on, the stall warning works as advertised. With the master off, the piezo horn makes an odd, faint "cracking" sound. It goes away when the master is on. It also goes away when the stall vane is activated or the contacts on the piezo are shorted. In other words, when the circuit is grounded and the master off, no noise, but ungrounded, weird cracking noise. I you move the vane with the master off, the piezo will click. The noise also disappears when the Stall Warn breaker is pulled. To re-cap: Master on: All is normal. Master off: Weird, faint crackling noise from the piezo. Master off stall vane activated: No Noise. Master off, Stall Warn breaker pulled: No noise. I thought there might be some stray voltage somewhere, but all circuits (except the dome light) are dead. Side note to this, when flying in the rain, the stall horn will come on faintly. I get this as the water is probably creating a weak ground and hence the weak sound. Before I get into pulling the stall vane I wanted to pick your brains.

Here are the pictures of one of the cylinders from the inside. Pistons looked good and the walls still crosshatched. The rest looked the same. "Gear DN" light works normally now (dim with nav lights. ) Broken resistor was the problem. Not expensive but a HUGE PITA to get to! So far total cost = $2.58.

This is exactly what I am looking for except I can't fly all the way to CA to get it done. ☹️ Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I couldn't find it on their site. I'll try calling, maybe it is just not listed.... Or I missed it. [emoji848] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I am thinking about doing the oil cooler relocation STC. My question is this, what do you do with the gaping hole in the cowling when you're done? I have not been able to find anything about the second landing light installation although I have seen it done on other planes. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sounds like you are on a good path if you are doing upgrades in year 2. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Yep! Cowl closure, engine monitor and "fiberlite" bezel instrument lighting. Was thinking of installing a turbine engine, but that will have to wait for the next annual. [emoji14] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Annual two is underway and so far is going much smoother than last year. Engine stuff all checks out. [emoji4]. We borescoped the cylinders and valves. All looks great! Unlike last year where i was already into it for $1400. Doing some upgrades this year. That will be much more fun than fixing stuff. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

When it comes to certificated airplanes, the Mooney is really hard to beat! Congratulations on your purchase! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

How about it Jose?? Any PIREPS?? Inquiring minds want to know... BTW, still love my $5 door seals!

Hi Kevin. I'm not an A&P but I do know the systems. When the gear goes from up to down and reaches the limit, it depresses the down limit switch. The down limit switch is a dual-pole switch. One side is NO and the other is NC. As luck would have it, I can also tell you that particular switch costs $210 from Mouser electronics! The NC side opens when the limit is reached and stops the current to the motor and the motor travels slightly more and the gear goes overcenter. The NO side closes and illuminates the light. So yes, The gear CAN be down without the green light as long as the floor indication indicates that it is. Of course, if you have this, there is a problem in the system somewhere. I believe Mooney says the floor indication is primary and the green light is secondary. Not sure where I heard that, but it makes sense. I look at it like this... the system is pretty fool-proof. The only way for the light it illuminate (outside of an internal fault with the switch) is to depress the down limit switch. I am comfortable using just the light for gear-down confirmation.

I have the same problem. The good news is, it's not really a problem. Before you do anything put a manual oil pressure gauge on it. My oil pressure gauge in the cockpit is 20 psi high. I thought I had excessively high oil pressure, it turns out that I was holding normal oil pressure and I'm really glad I didn't do anything to reduce it! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

OK. So I need the main gear tools but not the nose gear. Thanks!

Hey Guys... Given the state of previous maintenance "program"of this plane, I am going to be re-rigging the gear during the annual... with my IA of course. I have read the manual thoroughly and I have it in my head of what to do. There is a bit of confusion from the service manual on my part. Here's the question. Any reference to the rigging tools and pre-loads seem to be in relation to the manual gear. The only thing I see in relation to correct loading on the electric gear is the over-center spring adjustment. Maybe Clarence can chime in. Do I need the pre-load tools for the electric gear?

I switched from aeroshell w100 to Phillips 20/50 XC. My oil consumption went from about a quart every 10 hours to about half a quart every 15 hours. Clearly the motor likes the new oil! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Nope... It's a 351W. Holly 750. Not sure of the manifold. Headers into duals with Flowmaster 40's. 9" Rearend. 2500 stall racing TC. Built c4 tranny. 224/51 cam makes it fairly aggressive but still streetable. It has not been on a dyno, but the specs show 400HP/396TQ. I didn't build it. I bought it off a widow of the guy that built it for a great price.

Basically because I love making custom stuff. The Plane Plastics part is fine, but I would like to "modernize" it. I know there is a continent of guys out there that think a vintage plane should stay original. I think that has it's place, but I'm going for more, "resto-mod" look. I'm doing the same with my '68 Cougar. Gone are the days of resorting to original to retain value. Resto-mod cars are worth considerably more than stock. I think it is really more of a generational thing. I probably should have bought an experimental.

I have long thought that nose art is something that should be brought back! The military is too PC to do it, so it's going to be up to us. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

All the replies confirm what I thought to be true. Now to find time to make the mold....

That looks very nice! I was thinking of removing the air vents all together and replacing them with eyeball vents. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk