helitim

Would the installation of bladders require the same stripping and cleaning of the interior of the tanks or, do you place them in position and connect them as is? If cleaning the tanks is not required, why does it cost so much for installation? I just finished helping a hangar neighbor replace the bladder in the left side of his 182 and it really didn't seem all that difficult. We stripped out all the old tape, cleaned and replaced it prior to adding the bladder. Took maybe 5-6 hours. Are Mooneys that much more difficult? Tim

Dave, Carolyn at LVK has a calibration shop. She is super easy to deal with. Located right beside RedSky Aviation in the hangar nearest the road. Tim

I had considered replacing all three but, upon close evaluation I found the cable had been installed with a slight kink in it. The cable wore and broke at the kinked spot in the cable. I will closely inspect the others two and replace as indicated.

Excellent suggestion. I have the cable here and ready to ship if they will "help" duplicate it. I did find one on SWTA's website for $574. Ouch! Thank you, Tim

My mixture cable broke and I need a replacement. Looking at Mcfarlane's catalog, they only carry thru a D model. Doing a cursory web search, I have not located one. Anyone know where I can get a mixture cable for a 1977 M20J? New or used? Thank you, Tim

My Powerflow experience was on a previously owned 172 with an 0-320 D2G 160 hp RAM conversion. In order to try and justify my purchase, I spent quite a bit of time and effort testing the aircraft before and after the conversion. Starting at a home field elevation of 1130' I performed a time to climb to 9500' doing my best to control the airspeed the exact same on all tests. I completed the time to climb on runway heading then landed and repeated it off the runway 180 degrees the opposite direction to try and compensate for winds aloft. That afternoon we installed the PF system and I repeated the same flight tests the next morning with temperature and winds aloft almost exactly the same as the initial flights. End results were what I expected to see. Increased climb rate of 130' fpm. The aircraft did not have a CHT or EGT gauge so, I was unable to monitor for those parameters. The oil temp settled in about one needle width lower on the open faced gauge so I know the engine was in fact running a little bit cooler. How much, I don't know. Prior to this test, I had been flying at 2400 rpm in cruise with a fixed pitch prop and burned 9.3 gph over an average of almost 200 hours. After the PF, the fuel burn dropped to 8.8 gph. At the same setting. Best I could tell, it gained between 2-3 kts in cruise. The older airspeed indicators make it a bit more difficult to quantify that number but, I do believe it increased a small amount. The most important number of all for me at the time was take-off roll. I was operating off a 2000' grass strip. The PF decreased my take-off distance almost exactly 150'. That may not sound like much but when you are coming off grass and are heavy loaded, that extra confidence was absolutely worth the cost of the system in my opinion. You guys can argue the square root of this or that, or whatever you want. The fact is, the system works well in a Cessna 172. If and when I need a system for the Mooney, I would not hesitate to order another one. Tim

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Have you verified that the mating surface on the new cooler is not out of shape/bent somehow? Even if it is new, it is possible to have a defective surface.

I see Don beat me to the punch. He is correct in starting with a #31 and going to a 30 if needed. I generally start with a 30 and am very careful to center the bit. Tim

Peter, Your photos do appear to be, as previously suggested, pop rivets that the center fell out of. Most of the rivets I have encountered can be removed with a #30 drill bit. You want to have a bit that just barely cuts the center of the material out so you do not get into the under lying metal and enlarge the hole. Once you drill the center, if the rivet doesn't fall right out, just take a small screwdriver or chisel and lightly tap it from the side to pop the head off the rivet body. It should come off fairly easily if the center is drilled evenly. Tim

I recently completed replacing all my windows. Total of 41 hours of labor to complete the project. Probably 3 or 4 of those were spent R&R' ing the interior which you now have out. It's not a difficult job but, definitely time consuming. I went with the thicker 1/4inch and the plane is distinctly quiter now. One mistake I made was not spending the few extra $ for the UV protected glass. Even if your plane is hangared, the UV protection for you as pilot while you fly is worthwhile IMHO. Tim

Erik, "As Marky_24 stated, they are a slightly rough finish. Follow his directions for sanding, labeling and clear coating. The new ones do fit a little bit better but, do not have the snug fit of the originals. What I wondered about is if the Klixon switch itself may have just a slight amount of wear that prevents the switch cover from fitting tightly. Next time I am at the airport, I am going to try a new cover on a different switch to test that theory." Still have not test fit on another switch so, not sure if wear is the problem yet. Tim

"Have you gone back to the company who made them and let them know about the loose fit? I wonder if just a little squeaking of the CAD design couldn't just tighten it up a bit." Yes, if you view my original post it clarifies this point somewhat.

As Marky_24 stated, they are a slightly rough finish. Follow his directions for sanding, labeling and clear coating. The new ones do fit a little bit better but, do not have the snug fit of the originals. What I wondered about is if the Klixon switch itself may have just a slight amount of wear that prevents the switch cover from fitting tightly. Next time I am at the airport, I am going to try a new cover on a different switch to test that theory.

Dave, My A&P/IA comes out to Byron fairly frequently from Livermore to do repairs, annuals, etc. If you need help, I can come out and help you get the mags off and send them down to the repair shop in Hayward. Just out of curiosity, what are the symptoms that make you think they need to come off? Tim

These covers arrived today. They are the Klixon variety. Total cost was $16.99 delivered for two covers. Still have not had a chance to try them on the plane yet so, not exactly sure of the fit. Will let you know. If you need an ETA version, go to the Shapeways website and search ETA and it is available.$4.50 each

Mark, If you still have heating issues after repairing the baffles, consider the oil cooler. While mine was down for engine repairs, I sent it down south and had a cooler flush/overhaul done. Came back like new and made a significant difference in operating temp. Hopefully the baffle repair will fix it. Tim

Byron, Tried to Pm this but the server said you couldn't receive new messages. Do you fly Desser's on your plane? Thanks, Tim

Just got back from the Aviall conference today. The Champion tech rep did a presentation and stated emphatically that he recommends 37BY's to anyone that needs a hotter spark and does not want to run fine wires.

When I removed the belly pan that covers the landing gear motor and various linkages right below the front seats, the little screw was lying there waiting for me to go crazy trying to find its origin. The only place I could see that looked correct was where the trim indicator cable goes thru the metal housing that moves it back and forth to show your trim position. When I tried to put the screw in the empty hole, it simply would not go. If this is the correct spot, maybe it needs the threads cleaned to allow it back to its proper location? Does anyone have another suggestion ? Thank you, Tim

A few months ago, I had ordered two of the replacement 3D printed switch covers from Shapeways. The product appeared identical to the original but the fit was just a little bit loose. Day before yesterday I decided to email the product owner listed on the website and inquire if he could make an updated version with a better fit. The reply was a surprising "yes". He has now posted an updated version 0.6 for a slightly tighter fit. I have just ordered two of this version and expect delivery on 3/19. I will post an update as soon as I receive them to let the forum know if the fit is now better. Tim

Many references have been made about stepping on the flaps. Do you gentleman not park your plane with the flaps down just for that reason ? I leave them down after landing.

Based on the transcribed communications, it sounds as if he had only the one type of navigation system onboard. This is the very reason I have steam gauges and multiple GPS's in the aircraft. Gyro precession would be a minor inconvenience. Would a GPS have made a difference for someone who made this many poor choices? Maybe not. It would for many pilots. Having an iPad w AHRS is part of my personal MEL as a backup.

Spoke with Dan at Lasar. They have overhauled sterling horns for $525. He also suggested replacing the steering rod ends for an additional $100 while everything is apart. I want to fly again with the new donuts and see how it feels before making up my mind. Thanks for all the info. Tim

It does not shimmy which is why I was surprised to find the bit of play starting. Maybe it's just the smooooooth landings It's about 1-1.25 inches of play best I can tell. I'll give Lasar a call anyway. Thank you all, Tim