rob47v

If you want an aircraft that will handle turbulence like its nothing, get a Viking. Stable super fast and very absorbent. Down side of the aircraft, the wood wing. Not that it isn't strong its that it requires extra care, and must be hangared. But cost of operation is the other factor. Mooney's sip fuel and give you speed like no other aircraft can. Just my opinion!!!

Put the p/n on controller. thats where I found mine for $20.

Might anyone have a copy of those remarkable mooney's. Going on a cruse in the first of June, looking for something to read of my interest, but the for sale copies are crazy stupid expensive. I wouldn't mind renting it, but I can't find it as a rental.

Absolutely yes and thank you. The reason i said a J is that its speeds are a bit different, not by much of course. And since i have the mods which closely duplicates the J, I thought that it would be a easier model to find a ride with. But yes I much appreciated. PM me when your available.

Morning to all, as the title states I'm hopping that someone wouldn't mind providing not really an intro but a how this specific model behaves flight. I've been working on my F modded to J model for the past 2 years and entering the almost final completion stages. With this being so, my reason for the request is I've owned vikings, bonanzas, and Cessna's and have enough sense to know that most aircraft behave differently. I live on a 2500' grass strip and I'm just playing it safe. I read a lot on how this aircraft bounces, and what to see how to minimize the effect. Reading only does or gives so much. Whats the old saying, monkey see monkey do!! How true!!!

I need to give a bit of clear fiction . The controller im in search of its the panel monted controller that incorporates the trim id. Sorry for the miss information.

Getting all my parts together. I'm on my last in need of. And before someone asks, I've already spoken to Brittain, no luck. Anyhow in search for altitude hold controller or its valves.

yes I've contacted brittain nothing as of yet!!

In search of 2 ea. 20413 servos or 2982's

Well like some I've owned both, and presently own a mooney F model. More bang for your dollars as far as maintenance, plus ease of care, Mooney hands down. Comfort, being cabin comfort that is and a bit quieter, the bonanza. Bonanzas can and as far as I'm concerned, higher maint, They love magnesium. The tail surfaces are magnesium, form the bonanza to the king air there all that way. But which ever way you choose you 'll love it.

I've removed all cylinder at the same time with 4 and 6 cylinder engines. Never an issue thank God. Keep in mind there is a fwd attach bolt and aft bolt assy on some engines separate of the cylinder attach studs, that keep the case attach and in line. Now oil pressure of an engine is the direct result of bearing clearance. So excessive bearing clearance with the mains being the main corporate. Will directly show the health of the rotating assy. Excessive clearance in those areas will allow the bearing to turn once the clamping pressure is lessen. I'm with Doc get your A&P to look at this he will find the issue. If you where closer by the Houston area I would give you a hand. To check the cylinders doesn't constitute tearing the engine down, but removing 1 cylinder at the time will point somewhere. I just finished an engine where it ran lousy and used a tremendous amount of oil. Once I took the cylinder off, the scored bad skirt galled. just 1 wiper on the oil control ring. And ring gaps that where a joke. Fix all and it rungs great!!!!

You might want to look into nickel cylinders. I would if it wasn't that my cylinders had less than 400 hrs on them. Nickel acts like chrome as far as wear resistants, but break in like steel. Without the oil usage of chrome that is. Well worth it in my opinion.

.015 choke is excessive, .010 is still a bit much but would work alright. .008 would be best and is what I imagine a new cylinder to be. On choke barrel piston to cylinder clearance should be btw .018-.021 loose at the narrowest and widest points. the .0075 max difference allowed at the top of piston travel, from what ever the measurement was on bottom. Choke cylinders is old technology I use straight barrels their easier to setup and deal with. Just my 2 cents and run cooler also, tho they will use a bit more oil, they also last a heck of alot longer. Ring gap on choke barrels should be new .045-.055 as you mentioned I hope.

Here is a piece of advise. Don't fly it get to the bottom of this first. Too tight of piston to cylinder clearance will cause or can the piston skirt to galled causing catastrophic failure. Maybe its the ring gap either way I would look into it!!! I just got redoing all my cylinders and all well. If I may ask is it std bore, chrome cylinders, or nickel?

Winner I'm with M20Doc. Check your piston to cylinder clearance, I really don't think you have a loose bearing. Not that this doesn't happen but I find it unlikely. Pistons tend to grow with heat, if the clearance is out factory specs on the tight side, then is the engine will be hard to turn once hot!!