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rob47v

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Everything posted by rob47v

  1. If you want an aircraft that will handle turbulence like its nothing, get a Viking. Stable super fast and very absorbent. Down side of the aircraft, the wood wing. Not that it isn't strong its that it requires extra care, and must be hangared. But cost of operation is the other factor. Mooney's sip fuel and give you speed like no other aircraft can. Just my opinion!!!
  2. Might anyone have a copy of those remarkable mooney's. Going on a cruse in the first of June, looking for something to read of my interest, but the for sale copies are crazy stupid expensive. I wouldn't mind renting it, but I can't find it as a rental.
  3. Absolutely yes and thank you. The reason i said a J is that its speeds are a bit different, not by much of course. And since i have the mods which closely duplicates the J, I thought that it would be a easier model to find a ride with. But yes I much appreciated. PM me when your available.
  4. Morning to all, as the title states I'm hopping that someone wouldn't mind providing not really an intro but a how this specific model behaves flight. I've been working on my F modded to J model for the past 2 years and entering the almost final completion stages. With this being so, my reason for the request is I've owned vikings, bonanzas, and Cessna's and have enough sense to know that most aircraft behave differently. I live on a 2500' grass strip and I'm just playing it safe. I read a lot on how this aircraft bounces, and what to see how to minimize the effect. Reading only does or gives so much. Whats the old saying, monkey see monkey do!! How true!!!
  5. I need to give a bit of clear fiction . The controller im in search of its the panel monted controller that incorporates the trim id. Sorry for the miss information.
  6. Getting all my parts together. I'm on my last in need of. And before someone asks, I've already spoken to Brittain, no luck. Anyhow in search for altitude hold controller or its valves.
  7. yes I've contacted brittain nothing as of yet!!
  8. In search of 2 ea. 20413 servos or 2982's
  9. Well like some I've owned both, and presently own a mooney F model. More bang for your dollars as far as maintenance, plus ease of care, Mooney hands down. Comfort, being cabin comfort that is and a bit quieter, the bonanza. Bonanzas can and as far as I'm concerned, higher maint, They love magnesium. The tail surfaces are magnesium, form the bonanza to the king air there all that way. But which ever way you choose you 'll love it.
  10. I've removed all cylinder at the same time with 4 and 6 cylinder engines. Never an issue thank God. Keep in mind there is a fwd attach bolt and aft bolt assy on some engines separate of the cylinder attach studs, that keep the case attach and in line. Now oil pressure of an engine is the direct result of bearing clearance. So excessive bearing clearance with the mains being the main corporate. Will directly show the health of the rotating assy. Excessive clearance in those areas will allow the bearing to turn once the clamping pressure is lessen. I'm with Doc get your A&P to look at this he will find the issue. If you where closer by the Houston area I would give you a hand. To check the cylinders doesn't constitute tearing the engine down, but removing 1 cylinder at the time will point somewhere. I just finished an engine where it ran lousy and used a tremendous amount of oil. Once I took the cylinder off, the scored bad skirt galled. just 1 wiper on the oil control ring. And ring gaps that where a joke. Fix all and it rungs great!!!!
  11. You might want to look into nickel cylinders. I would if it wasn't that my cylinders had less than 400 hrs on them. Nickel acts like chrome as far as wear resistants, but break in like steel. Without the oil usage of chrome that is. Well worth it in my opinion.
  12. .015 choke is excessive, .010 is still a bit much but would work alright. .008 would be best and is what I imagine a new cylinder to be. On choke barrel piston to cylinder clearance should be btw .018-.021 loose at the narrowest and widest points. the .0075 max difference allowed at the top of piston travel, from what ever the measurement was on bottom. Choke cylinders is old technology I use straight barrels their easier to setup and deal with. Just my 2 cents and run cooler also, tho they will use a bit more oil, they also last a heck of alot longer. Ring gap on choke barrels should be new .045-.055 as you mentioned I hope.
  13. Here is a piece of advise. Don't fly it get to the bottom of this first. Too tight of piston to cylinder clearance will cause or can the piston skirt to galled causing catastrophic failure. Maybe its the ring gap either way I would look into it!!! I just got redoing all my cylinders and all well. If I may ask is it std bore, chrome cylinders, or nickel?
  14. Winner I'm with M20Doc. Check your piston to cylinder clearance, I really don't think you have a loose bearing. Not that this doesn't happen but I find it unlikely. Pistons tend to grow with heat, if the clearance is out factory specs on the tight side, then is the engine will be hard to turn once hot!!
  15. They are the formers were the belly skins attach to! I've never seen any not bent or destroyed!!
  16. As long as the repairs where made correctly, it should not impair with its ability to fly straight and safely. The price should be adjusted for the fact of the gear up incident tho. But the repair is a bit more extensive than just 2 belly panels. usually but not always the lower bulkheads need replacing, or if they can be repaired by riviting on doublers to give them back there strength, then that can be followed . On my F model I replaced 2 bulkheads, 3 belly skins, and had to repair the tails aft lower V haul skin section, and last but not least replace the nose gear doors. So be careful, have the aircraft inspected correctly.
  17. In search of an Apollo 2001nms P/N 430-0267-300. I know it's not supported but its what I could afford at the time.
  18. When we rig aircrafts, there rigged not for takeoff purposes but for cruise flight, and as pointed out to make the planes flight straight. Some of the flight surfaces will be a bit off the opposite side. Thats why there is usually a plus or minus to rigging scales or figures. Even the factory does this!!! A long time ago I owned a Vtail Bonanza, great aircraft very comfortable and docile. Anyhow everyone complained of the tail wag in these aircraft some say its an inherited trait of the aircraft, not so. If the manual is followed accordingly, the wag is actually rigged out. Mine didn't wag but I must admit it's a pain to rig. took several test flights to get it to fly straight without wagging. Even at work we have had 737, 57's that required adjustment since they seam to fly a bit off. All per the manual of course!!!!
  19. As far as I know leather if its natural hide leather that is, fire resistant or flame resistant. Thus it will not flame up like not treated vinyl or other materials that need the fire retardant treatment done to them. We did have an aircraft interior shop close to us, which is now closed do to the inconsistencies in our sad economy. Anyhow he even said that if the material is natural leather hide, and can be proven there is no certification needed as its naturally fire resistant, and the FAA knows this as such. But the sign off has to stated as such. There should be a tag stating the composition of the material being used. I'm not an authority, this is just what I've learned.
  20. 2 stage paint the only way to go. Thats why the factory op to use it. Wet look!!! easier to work with. Acry glow by Sherwin Williams. I prefer PPG but might have to give this a look into!!! Everything we use at work is PPG and oh boy does it last!!!
  21. I work at IAH and as said you would hate flying in here, too busy. They would keep you on the ground idling too long, something we al know is not good on our engines. Try Hooks airport or Montgomery co. neither are far from IAH better for GA to fly into!!!
  22. Very easy. disconnect fuel, pitot lines. Disconnect flap actuator and all brake lines underneath belly area, all push pull tubes and don't forget the ailerons. Tuck them out of the way once disconnected. See if the plane has bayonet splices, and disconnect there. If not find all wire marking, or Id the wire your going to cut. clear area, support wing and lift airframe from wing once bolts are removed. Oh the corner bolts that go in thru the wing underneath the back seat are safetied. Don't do like the hacker that I got my plane from and cut everything, such butcher!!!! Or if your trailer is long enough. drill off the tail meaning the lap section behind the rear seat and transported side ways.
  23. Absolutely correct the out is on a waas signal. But my point being. That it could be done with just a ABDS out transponder. I'm afraid most folks are going to think, that they are going to need such expensive tho highly wanted as with my self of course, a gps com like the garmin 430's or the new GTN's.
  24. I hope everyone is clarifying, that it is the ABDS- out, the requirement not the ABDS-in. The in is a nice to have but not required, so WAAS tho great for weather and such isn't a mandatory requirement . Just the out!!!
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