Yetti

So as a low time pilot, I think the training and the PTS standards that we are tested to is silly. Not once, did we set up landing configuration and turn to base stall. Doing the nose up in the air is not when you are going to kill yourself. Most people will figure to push down. With some access to a RedBird full motion simulator (Microsoft Flight Simulator based) and a really nice MS FS set up at home, I did some testing at Loss of Power at Takeoff. 250, 500, 750 feet. We are thinking of making up a simulator course. After bending some virtual sheet metal.. Some of the learning. All the engine out training is done with the fan at idle. The 172 is very different with the fan stopped. we are taught steep turns with the fan going at regular power. I think I did one engine idle, count to three (oh the fan stopped, what do I do?) And then made a < 500 foot loss steep turn. Try a 45 degree turn at no power. You have to point the nose at the ground. Who has the fortitude to do that at 500 feet? What I learned was for the C172 at 250 straight ahead is your only option. 500 straight ahead is the only option (unless the airport is a better place to crash) 750 feet is the minimum that you may get back to the airport and probably crash. But probably a survivable crash. MS Flight simulator has a Mooney as one of the planes, so I will try that. Also I want to go do some engine idle steep turns in the c172

I think there was a beech discussion on using a PAR 46 Grote tractor work light

Look at the Avilution line of apps. You can configure the w&b for several planes

Back to the OP topic. I grew up breaking and repairing fiberglass sailboats. About 10 years ago I built a kit kayak with epoxy. I have played around with vacuum bagging some parts and carbon fiber lay ups (for of all things bike shoe sole repair). The mixing of carbon fiber mat and fiberglass may not be the best idea as the two expand and contract at a different rate. What may be good is to glass in some carbon fiber rods or aluminum if high strength is desired. Or thin plywood would work also. You would want to saturate the plywood first in epoxy. This is normal boat building technique. I found these guys that can do a Class 1 fire retardant epoxy. http://www.interplastic.com/resinwizard_TR.asp?chemical=&conpercent=&maxtemp=400&degree=on&deg=F&btnSubmit=+Search+ What would be slick is to epoxy the repair area with mat and epoxy and then vacuum bag it to get the excess epoxy out and increase the strength of the bond. For the time people are spending on repairing, it may make sense to create a Master mold and then lay up new pieces. Anyone want to lend a cowl? While doing all this it would make sense to run a backing strip of mat and epoxy along the screw line and reinforce that area too. I have 4 oz cloth, some carbon fiber cloth and a vacuum pump. I am in Houston and Brenham and would help out for a ride in a Mooney.

That could be spun out on the lathe. If you could get some dimensions. The thread pitch. I would probably go with a knurl instead of the spanner wrench holes. The blue light cover could be cut from some plastic. Does not seem too hard a sample would make it easier to duplicate.

I am currently reverse scamming one of the "got beat up in a foreign country" scammers. The goal is to make up fake Western union numbers and see how many times you can get them to go to Western Union for bogus pick ups. Scammers suck as they got one of my mom's friends for alot of money. She was gotten via the phone and most of it was an offshore lottery scam. Just scary how easy they can talk their way in. The FBI could do nothing other than say "Stop sending Money" The NSA should be using their special powers to track down email scammers and virus producers. It has been said one million government employees looking for a couple thousand jihadist

This has been the thing going through my mind. As a newly minted person with a license to learn that really wants a Mooney.. And a career IT person who knows the life cycle of technology.... I learned on steam gauges and what is good about those are you can look at the position of a needle and not have to spend brain power to interpret what it means. For race cars they will often turn the gauges so all the needles point up. then as long as the all needles are up, you can just drive. as I transitioned to the G1000 you realize you have to interpret the tapes. also it is a little annoying for perfectionist trying to keep 65 knots as you may be inclined to chase the tape. The question I have is spend lots of money on fancy glass install or get a basic one to hook to the autopilot, then spend money on external devices that are much cheaper and easily upgraded? I am starting to read on my instrument stuff and feel like I could fly an approach based off my Samsung phone/avilution set up. coupled with ADS B via wifi I have pretty good internal and external situational awareness for under a $1000 There is a backup hand held GPS in the bag along with a hand held radio with nav capabilities. Which I learned was important to not rely on systems in the plane on one of my first solo cross countries, the com 2 circuit breaker kept popping taking out the com 2 radio and the GPS (later found out due to overloading by adding the GPS and not rebalancing the circuit load, then they upped the breaker size furthering my distrust of A&Ps) I continued the flight, because I had external redundancies. I guess the best thing it to know the systems available to you and fully integrate them into the overall execution.

The easyist thing I have found is the small hand vacuum pumps. (mity mite I think) Connect at the bleed screw and open. Good for priming the system with fluid. Then use a oil can to pump from the calipers. Usually about 20 pumps. May need to go up to 40 pumps. Helps to have someone watch bubbles come through the reservoir.