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TStepp

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  • Location
    Carlsbad, CA
  • Reg #
    N2288T
  • Model
    M20F

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    oooyea

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  1. I’ve had excellent experience with Ramona Avionics on several Garmin and other brand name installations over the years. David Hainline owns / operates this shop and has consistently provided high quality work, responsive communication, and no nonsense. You can trust in him and his team. http://www.ramonaavionics.com
  2. I believe it’s SL77808 VALVE ASSY, OIL PRESSURE SL1028-B BALL, PRESSURE RELIEF SL61084 SPRING, OIL PRESS RELIEF was listed on a quotation provided to me by email years ago. good luck!
  3. The Mooney is a beautiful machine. It has proven versatility. One must choose which variable is to be optimized. It all depends upon your mission. If you want to get there faster, optimize distance / time (nm/hr). If you want to get there cheaper, optimize cost / distance ($/nm). If you want to log time, optimize cost (fuel burn) / time ($/hr). As missions vary, one can choose which knob to tweak. The OP wrote "I'm trying to burn as little fuel as possible so I can prolong my flights for time building." In that case, it doesn't matter how far you go or how fast. The whole goal is to log time for as little $ as possible. I've owned my '67 F for >20 years and have ~1500 hrs. in it. At 17" MP / 2000 rpm level flight, 105 mph (91 kts), I can lean the IO-360-A1A until she barely maintains altitude @ 5.4 gph. I've built ~500 hours over the past 5 years flying around southern CA in this configuration. My purpose was to build time towards my CSEL & ATP. I didn't need to go fast - just needed to log time. With avg. fuel prices ~$6 / gal., this configuration has saved me several $k vs. flying faster. Note: One can also log time while taxiing. You don't have to be burning 5-6 gph. Land long at larger airport runways and extend your taxi-back. 15-20 minutes on the ground at 1.3 gph. makes the average even lower. Of course, when I want to get there faster, I push the "Go" knob and get there at ~170 mph (148 kts). That's ~60% faster for twice the fuel burn rate. I don't think a Cub can do that. It's really nice to have the option.
  4. FWIW - from a recent speed run in our 67 M20F: Configuration: 67 M20F S/N 67-0204 Lycoming IO-360-A1A, 950 hrs. since remanufactured 2-blade Hartzell prop, SWTA cowl / windshield / spinner, LASAR speed fairing mods (wing and tail roots, dorsal fin, etc.), Brake Wheel Cylinder Rotation, no inner gear doors ~500 lbs below MGW (~2250) Conditions: High pressure system over San Diego area, stable air mass (inversion layer) 7,500 MSL, 16 deg. C OAT (5 deg. C on the ground) 22" MP (ram air open), 2600 RPM, 100 deg. ROP, 12.3 GPH Result (derived from 4x GPS ground speed velocity vectors): 153 kts
  5. I’ll jump in as #31 for a set (both up & down). Many thanks!
  6. Thanks everyone - Bill Noctor at Mather is looking it over and will advise. Agree it sounds like the switch or associated wiring. T
  7. Thanks guys. Ignition switch position changes made no difference whatsoever. Couldn’t even shut it off. Maybe a switch or p lead problem. Couldn’t tell for certain whether I was running one or two mags, as switch position was inconsequential. Without knowing I had 2 good mags, return to VNY vs overflight of LAX and Pacific ocean with few landing options seemed most prudent. Home base is 100 nm south at KCRQ.
  8. I’m AOG Van Nuys this week and could use some advice: 1. Recommendations for trustworthy A&P mech on / near field. 2. Troubleshooting tips. After routine run up including mag check takeoff normal until ~2k’ AGL noticed tach red light indicating left mag failure. There was No noticeable sound or drop in performance. Checked ignition switch set to Both. Pressed tach buttons to confirm mode selection was correct. Switched ignition to L, R, Both, and Off - no difference. Returned to base and Landed uneventfully. Ignition switch made no difference shut down normally by mixture shutoff. Now AoG 100 miles from home. This should be easy, no? Thanks in advance for tips. TStepp ’67F
  9. Good stuff. The ad. indicates for 1976 M20F vs. your text above for 1967 M20F. Maybe of little difference, but which is correct? Thx, TS
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