milotron Posted February 19, 2018 Report Posted February 19, 2018 Hi, I am repairing/replacing the plastic interior panels on my door. Once apart, there is no insulation or seals around the latch. Is my door missing something? There are a couple of sound reduction pads, but not much else. Seems to me there should be more in there. There is a little corrosion on the control rods and I am going to sand/prime them before this goes back together. Using the melted plastic/MEK methods for repairing the cracks, along with SEM paint and getting good results. Thanks,
carusoam Posted February 19, 2018 Report Posted February 19, 2018 In the automotive world they use a heavy polyethylene sheet to cover the large openings... this would keep the air from flowing from outside to the inside of the cabin. Similar challenge of door locks and door handles and speed and cold OAT. Not sure how that works in the certified AC world. check to see how moisture would be drained out the bottom as well... blocking the moisture escape would be bad. Best regards, -a-
Dream to fly Posted February 19, 2018 Report Posted February 19, 2018 In the automotive world they use a heavy polyethylene sheet to cover the large openings... this would keep the air from flowing from outside to the inside of the cabin. Similar challenge of door locks and door handles and speed and cold OAT. Not sure how that works in the certified AC world. check to see how moisture would be drained out the bottom as well... blocking the moisture escape would be bad. Best regards, -a- They don't do that anymore. Now it's polypropylene plastic formed to the door skin. The door shell has drain holes for water to escape. The poly and the interior panel insulate the skin to keep interior and exterior temps separate and prevent moisture build up. The plastic membrane was too thin. Also the interior panels are not just plastic but a polymer that doesn't crack like old panels did. All hardware is now plastic coated and all pivots and connectors are made of delrin. Push rods have been replaced with SS cables.Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk 1
carusoam Posted February 19, 2018 Report Posted February 19, 2018 Following the timeline, Joe... This Saran Wrap Technology won’t be available for us to use for a couple of more years... I took my son’s Pontiac door apart a few months ago chasing a window issue... the plastic film had to be pulled out and put back. Looks like a good idea for this application as well. Total weight.... less than an ounce? Of course on my M20C the door didn’t have a decent seal, so this challenges didn’t get the attention we are seeing in this thread. Best regards, -a- 1
Dream to fly Posted February 19, 2018 Report Posted February 19, 2018 Following the timeline, Joe... This Saran Wrap Technology won’t be available for us to use for a couple of more years... I took my son’s Pontiac door apart a few months ago chasing a window issue... the plastic film had to be pulled out and put back. Looks like a good idea for this application as well. Total weight.... less than an ounce? Of course on my M20C the door didn’t have a decent seal, so this challenges didn’t get the attention we are seeing in this thread. Best regards, -a- Forgot we are back in timeSent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
carusoam Posted February 19, 2018 Report Posted February 19, 2018 I do see one thing in Milo’s pic that is worth looking into... lots of daylight shining through around what looks like a piece of rubber held in place with an aluminum riveted shape. Probably where the door handle is mounted on the outside... That rubber piece is worth looking into. It may be so old and rigid, an update may actually net a positive result. Is that an inflatable door seal hose? How well is the door seal working. That comes first before the smaller leaks. Best regards, -a-
milotron Posted February 19, 2018 Author Report Posted February 19, 2018 That's was I was thinking too. I was wondering if something was missing. The backside of the interior panels were very dirty in that area with some evidence of moisture. iain
carusoam Posted February 19, 2018 Report Posted February 19, 2018 The oddity behind the design... the air rushing by the cabin is generally pulling air out through those leaky areas... But when it’s -20°F outside, you will feel a lot of cold at 12,000’ and not enough heat gets generated with MP down around 20” or so. My M20C didn’t have any insulation when I got it in Y2K... so my door looked just like the pics milo posted.... It would make a lot of sense to stop the flow of air, and the loss of heat through heat transfer. The 1/8” formed ABS doesn’t keep you very warm when you lean against it.... Old memories of flying my M20C. Don’t lean against the walls. Wear a hat to keep the cold air leaking through the vents at the ceiling from chilling your head. Best regards,
Marauder Posted February 19, 2018 Report Posted February 19, 2018 Hi, I am repairing/replacing the plastic interior panels on my door. Once apart, there is no insulation or seals around the latch. Is my door missing something? There are a couple of sound reduction pads, but not much else. Seems to me there should be more in there. There is a little corrosion on the control rods and I am going to sand/prime them before this goes back together. Using the melted plastic/MEK methods for repairing the cracks, along with SEM paint and getting good results. Thanks, No insulation and your bare door looks just like mine. And a picture of the refurbished/Jaegar lower panel:Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro 2
milotron Posted February 19, 2018 Author Report Posted February 19, 2018 Thanks Marauder. That looks great! I am sticking with OEM type Plane plastics to replace the lower. Upper has some cracked screw holes. The rubber seal around the handle is riveted, sandwiched between the handle and door skin. Not a job for me to take on but will put on the list when I get to a paint job, along with replacing the windows. iain 1
Marauder Posted February 19, 2018 Report Posted February 19, 2018 Thanks Marauder. That looks great! I am sticking with OEM type Plane plastics to replace the lower. Upper has some cracked screw holes. The rubber seal around the handle is riveted, sandwiched between the handle and door skin. Not a job for me to take on but will put on the list when I get to a paint job, along with replacing the windows. iain A guy on my field replaced his door panel with a Plane Plastics piece. I was amazed at how much trimming was required. They are certainly a heavier plastic than the factory one. Also looks like it is a piece that was made from a copy and not the original mold. He was able to get it to fit properly and it looks great. SEM paints are great. The upper panel in my picture is the factory original repaired and the lower is Bruce’s. They were painted with SEM paints to match. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Recommended Posts