Search the Community

With the gauges on the wings and in the cockpit near zero, my M20K never takes more fuel then 50 gallons at the pump. The capacity is 76 gallons so I always land with way more fuel on board then I think. Yesterday I pushed my flight a little longer with the gauges uncomfortably reading 1 gallon and both the low fuel annunciators burning, yet the calculated landing fuel on board was 18 gallons. She took 60 gallons this time, so I guess the calculated fuel on board wins. Some uneasy flying tho. I refueled with the nose a little higher then on a completely level surface. Does that impact the amount of fuel I can add to the tanks? When refueling, the fuel gets up to those ‘anti-siphon’ doors easily. But then the topping up starts. This seems it could go on endlessly, if I just rock the wings a little back and forth. When do you guys say, this is full? I always fly with a big fuel margin, but to never use about one third of the fuel on board is silly, so I thought I’d dig in and see if it was really there. And it was. I stayed close to the airport by the way. Good to get to know the aircraft a little better again. It was a sad day for flying, last weekend we lost three young dutch glider pilots in two separate accidents. I started out flying gliders and I heard the ELT blaring on the 121.5 from the last crash, gave me the shivers. Stay safe!

Hi MS-ers, I'm 3/4 finished with panel upgrade of our 1967C. Installed JPI EDM900, which produced a bumper crop of unneeded instrumentation. I want to offer these items here on MS before listing them on ebay. 1. Tach, stamped from the 1980's, built by Superior Labs, Inc., Hot Sprgs, AR. for Cessna. Working when removed. Agreed with new EDM900 tach, hour meter says 1018.0 hours. No logo on face plate. No cable. 2. Original six-gauge Garwin instrument cluster in 2 rows, 3 cols layout, with amphenol connector. All gauges working when removed except oil temperature. ***SOLD*** 3. Combined Garwin MP/FP gauge, overhauled Dec., 11, 2017. Mooney logo on face plate. 4. Radair single EGT indicator- worked upon removal. ***SOLD*** 5. EI VA-1A certified VA meter with wiring harness and shunt. Purchased last fall and installed. Made redundant by EDM900. Working when removed. ***SOLD*** 6. EI Oil Temp/Press gauge. with press. xducer/temp. sens. and wiring harness. Working when removed. ***SOLD*** 7. Dynon D-2 pocket panel with external GPS antenna, accessory power plug in and wall adapter. Top few lines horizontal of the display are always white but these don't cover up vital information. Works otherwise. With pinch mount for installation in empty 3-1/8" instrument hole. This thing is cool. I wish I had a spot for it, but I don't. ***SOLD*** 8. Garmin 396 aviation GPS with external antenna, accessory power plug, antenna for Sirius XM weather data, software updated November, 2017. With mounting bracket. Working. Tons of cool features. ***SOLD*** 9. Original carb. temp. gauge with amphenol connector, made by Aicrcraft Instrument and Dev. Inc. Inop when removed. Don't know if gauge is bad or sensor. If you are interested, please send PM. I can send photos of what interests you. -Fred

I just installed a jpg 900... so i have all this stuff. don't know what anything is worth, will research later. thought i would make it available here first. ping me. mikeut b

I have a problem with the oil temp and CHT gauges. Oil temp sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. When I turn power on, both gauge needles dive to the left. When I disconnect the sender for the oil temp, it does the same thing. When I ground the sending units lead (off of the sending unit), it deflects all the way to the right. Cyl. head gauge does the same thing but when hooked up, it's dead all the time. Both the sending units show resistance. Whats up and what to check next?

I have a problem with the oil temp and CHT gauges. Oil temp sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. When I turn power on, both gauge needles dive to the left. When I disconnect the senders from the gauges, they do the same thing. When I ground the sending units lead (off of the sending unit), they deflect all the way to the right. Yesterday I disconnected the sensor leads from the back of the gauges with the same results. I removed the temp bulbs and tested resistance change with a heat gun and they change resistance so I believe they are working. What shop do you recommend I send the gauges to for repair?