francisg

Any vacuum guage available?

Dan Knowing your location would be most helpful...

As a cerified CB i was able to mend totally broken off window trim pieces by building up the thickness of the black ABS pipe glue and light weight fiberglass, it also filled some oversized schew holes on the back side (ie. hidden side) and with very little bit of Bondo make the pieces smooth and easy to paint I will take pictures...

Over the years the thin ABS plastic used in our vintage aircraft are often cracked, deformed or broken. I was facing these problem and new plastic was not an option, the boss told me No... It is possible to straighten out all of this plasic using a a hair drier or a heat gun to massage the hot plastic back into shape. Once that is done fixing the cracks and or break becomes a lot easier. I used mid-strength black ABS pipe adhesive, available at any hardware store. This product will fuse with the original plastic and can be built up wherever its needed. It can also be reinforced with fiberglass tape. A little bondo and some sanding and a coat of primer and paint will do wonders to a tired interior with broken plastic, with very little weight penalty....

Thanks to all. I guess whoever did the seat re-upholstery did not have a clue... Now is time for a "re-do"... Francisg

To all this experts at Mooney space, can someone tell me how the bench seat cushion is attached in the front, I found the clips in the back where the metal rod attaches but i do not see anywhere to attach the front. Thanks for the help. FrancisG

David, This is Fantastic progress. I am truly anxious for the final product for 63 M20C!!!! Your dedication is truly heroic, particularly since you sold you Mooney. Please keep us all posted. Thanks Francisg

David, How is the cowling mod coming along, or is it on the back burner? Please advise possible eta. Many thanks. Francis G

While it has been some time since my original posting, everyones comments are grreatly appreciated. I now use properly sized aviation stainless screws with a little anti-seize, and eaxch one gets screwed by hand, no impact, no drill, no Yankee screwdriver, to just tight... I never imagined screws could be such an interesting topic (then again some are interesting than orthers...). Francis G

Yes, removing the working and existing Aeroflash strobes to install STC LED would be the ideal, and is my long term goal, but for now i would just like to make my Aeroflash strobes legal, at least until one fails. I am still looking for anyone having a 337. thanks to all.

Thanks to all, as usual MS has the final word, in this case, no mater which screw material, use a hand screwdriver only (and maybe some antiseize)...

Andy, The Aeroflash strobes are TSO certified and have an STC for many Cessna, Gruman and Rockwell aircrafts. My local FAA rep would not sign off on the Aeroflash, even though i still have the old Grimes anticollision rotating beacon. So if i understand you correctly all i need is for the A&P / IA to make a logbook entry certifying the installation meets airworthiness standard? I must say i get lost in all this documentation and who is allowed to do what... Should you have the FAA ref. saying this is a minor modification only requiring a log book entry that would be most helpful. Thank you very much for your help. FrancisG

Would anyone have Aeroflash strobes installed on their M20C? I have these strobes but no 337, and the local FAA rep would not sign off on a 337 without previous installed data such as another 337. Please let me know if you have these strobes and a 337 that you would be willing to share. Thanks

To all the well meaning contributors, I agree that countersunk angle is a concern, but many of my cowling and belly panels use button heads. Finding the right countersink angle may be a problem, but having access to SoCal aerospace fastener manufacturrers may be helpful . respectfully, FrancisG

To all the well meaning contributors, I am only trying to keep my vintage "C" up in the air as best as i can do, and afford. I have been a long time follower of Mooneyspace and all it offers, maybe my desire to switch to Torx screws, teflon or nylonwashers, and antiseize, will not only help me, but anyone doing owner assist annuals, without having to fight the few striped and overtorqued screws from previous inspections. Once again i thank the Experts for all their wisdom. respectfully, FrancisG

To all well meaning Experts, i am talking in reference to all inspection panels, properly fastened with stainless Philips head screws. And yes, torqued to the required amount, coated with anti-seize and possibly with nylon or teflon washers (those are mostly effective in protecting the paint, not the “mangling of the Phillips head). Bottom line, i am still not sure i can use Torx. head stainless screws. Thanks to all for your input. FrancisG

To the Vintage Mooney Experts, I have a 63 M20C and would like to use Torx head stainless screws of the appropriate sizes. Is there any rule preventing from making the change? I am tired of chewed up and damaged Philipps head screws. Any input would be appreciated. FrancisG

how much for the front seats? Francisg

Basic annual at LASAR is $3500 plus parts provided there are no issues....

Jim, How much for the vac guage and stand by vac? i have a 63 M20C which has turned into a long term project. Thanks. FrancisG

Any Before / After perf. numbers? Any progress on the early M20c mod?

Like Alex said pure porn....

As all have said vintage Mooney ownership has a high price, i should know. I purchased at salvage auction a 63 M20C that had landed wheels up, it had a low time engine but dated avionics, two years later it is in now good working order with good avionics (530W, 300XL, GTX 345, alt. hold Brittain autopilot, ARI mod and spinner and other speed mods. It ended up costing close to 45K but i know what is in it, and there is still much to do. That is the price we pay for operating a vintage performance aircraft. I doubt any 30K to 35K would be without issues... While you are in a difficult predicament, as others have said going the used engine route and dealing with the tank reseal with sweat equity is probably as inexpensive as it is going to get. Keep the faith, other fools myself included, have done similar things, perseverance pays off... Peace of mind has a price. You either have to pay up front or piece meal over time but no matter which route is chosen it is expensive to play, these toys are not for the faint. Best of luck. Francis G

Thanks to all for your input, and to Sabremech for his generous offer that i took him up on.