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I use a form-a-funnel: https://www.amazon.com/Form-Funnel-KIT-201-Formable-Funnel/dp/B017MTFIYE?th=1 Also highly recommend a roll of pig mats for soaking up the oil. Great to have around the hangar.

Our paint shop recommended using standard Matterhorn White for the base color, then adding stripes/accents in the colors you want. It's easy to match. It was very good advice. You can paint brackets/baffles/inspection panels/gear legs/touch up anywhere with Rustoleum White, available for sale at your local hardware store. If I were re-painting any aircraft, the bottom of the wings, the leading edges, and the gear would be Matterhorn White again. Maybe also the area of the fuselage where your GPS, nav, and com antennas go, since those get replaced more often than the paint. Airplanes take a beating flying through the air at 200 MPH, getting taken apart every year for annual, and having components replaced. Touching up the paint is necessary from time to time. Just a practical consideration. I like the first style you posted OK myself.

Looks like I got this one from Aircraft Spruce about two years ago, no problems since: 06-05000 GOODYEAR PREM 5.00X5 TUBE W/ 90 DEG I bought two so I have a spare which is still sitting on the shelf in my hangar. If you wait until it goes flat and need it fixed that day, you get whatever brand and quality the shop has sitting on the shelf, which may or may not be what you want.

@Ragsf15e Here's my last logbook entry on the starter adapter, from December of 2014: I'm not sure if that's a G or a 6 in the P/N. Hope that gives you some more info. Might try Aircraft Accessories of Oklahoma.

I believe you will want 90 degrees for the front tire tube, and 70 degrees for the mains.

+1 on checking the wires and solenoids. Your starter solenoid is on the firewall above the co-pilot's feet. When a solenoid fails, it can do strange things like make a poor or partial connection and buzz, or only connect after you've turned the key several times. OEM versions of these have been unobtainable for a while. Some A&P's have been replacing them with $15 tractor solenoids from NAPA auto parts, which is apparently arguably legal under some interpretation, and is what I found installed on my plane. I much prefer the Lamar FAA-PMA solenoids from Spruce I linked above. The difference in quality is obvious when you compare them. You can see most of the rest of the electrical starting system by opening the tailcone access door and it's right in front of you. The main ground terminal comes right off the battery and bolts to the avionics shelf in front of it. Check for corrosion between the wire terminal and the shelf. Spray some corrosion-x on it before you bolt it back on. Any wires that are corroded, or with cracked or discolored insulation, should be replaced with proper milspec wire, with ends properly crimped on using a hydraulic crimper like this one: https://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-64044.html I believe the above should be done at least every decade or so on any plane. If you don't know when yours was last inspected, I'd start there. It's an hour or two of inspection and good preventative maintenance. These types of threads usually start a contest of people posting how many years they get out of their batteries, with some of them pushing 7-8 years. That's all well and good, but in the interest of not canceling trips after I've got my plane loaded up to go, and not finding out my capacity is low after an alternator failure while flying IMC, I replace my battery every 3-5 years at the first sign of decreased starting performance. If you pay attention you can often tell when a battery is starting to get a little weak, as long as you keep your connections clean. Hope you'll let us know once you get it figured out what the problem was.

Good time to pickup a spare starter solenoid for the hangar shelf. I had a trip canceled by one going out, resulting in a similar experience. My prop even moved a little bit when I turned the key. Starter solenoid: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/sts-12s24s.php?clickkey=8060 Master solenoid: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/skytec07-03565.php?clickkey=8060 Glad you got it figured out.

I have the 12v version of that Schauer charger and leave the plane plugged into it all the time in the hangar. Works great for database updates and I like to start every flight knowing I have a topped off battery.

I just removed the floor mats. The pilot side one covered the fuel strainer and I didn't want to drill more holes in the airplane. They were the same material as the carpet underneath them, so that's the floor mat now.

Mine used to blow out anything over 6 quarts. I would let it drop to near 5, then fill to 6. Oil pressures and temps were fine this way and the internet said it was OK to do. My POH says "Oil Capacity Minimum for Flight - 5 qts." After cleaning out the air/oil separator and lines and replacing the oil cap gasket, that improved, and now it holds 8 pretty well, but seems to do best between 6 and 7, so I add a quart at 6, about once every 10 hours of flight. All measurements here are described after the engine has sat off for 30+ minutes. If you take a reading right after landing you will be 1 quart lower than described.

I'd like to know the answer. My TSIO-360-MB also runs on the low side for oil temp. Savvy shows me as pretty normal compared with 9,000 other M20K's, but on the low end. The December flights in the sub-140's were ground runs troubleshooting a turbo issue.

I had two vacuum failures before we went all glass. The attitude indicator slowly drifted off both times. The first was the vacuum pump itself, so I did get a warning light on the panel for low vac. The second was the attitude indicator failing internally, so no warning lights, just an instrument that would have put the plane into a steep nose up climbing right turn until the pilot figured it out. Luckily I was VMC for both events. I'll take a big X failure display on a G5 every time.

I've started keeping a can of brake cleaner on hand in the hangar. After the oil change, where some oil always gets somewhere, I spray the bottom of the engine compartment down pretty good with it and wipe up all the oil I can see. Then I do the run up and look for major leaks before applying mousemilk to the wastegate and exhaust joints and re-cowling. At least this way I figure every 25 hours or so the oil and gunk gets cleaned off the bottom of the motor, making it easier in theory to spot the source of any leaks later. Your mileage my vary... Good luck.

After I got my 653337 clamp replaced with a 670105, my A&P called to ask if I'd seen anything to say it also can replace a 653332. He was working on a Seneca (which uses another variant of the TSIO-360) and I guess the IPC calls for a 653332. I didn't know the answer then, and still don't now, but he was having trouble finding guidance. I hope you get it figured out. What a mess.

Mine are infinitely adjustable with the same markings and I was not really correct in saying "third notch" but that's how I think of it when I lower them halfway between the "takeoff" marker and the full flap position. It's a useful flap setting to have in some circumstances, mostly for adjusting speeds on approaches.